The London Lounge

Oops! My Shanghainese tailor has done it again. Commissioned to make me an formal evening dress suit, she will be putting 2 external waist pockets on the tailcoat. When I asked her to take them out the next day, she said my request came too late as the cloth had been cut for the suit to be ready in ten days' time.

According to her, having two waist pockets is quite standard by Chinese standards. What are your opinions, gentlemen? Will a tailcoat with two waist pockets be acceptable/normal in the West? Or, do I have to get her to make me another tailcoat without waist pcokets on the outside?

The pockets go in the tails, not on the waist. That said, besom pockets cut into the waist seam (if you have one) wouldn't be the end of the world.

Do you plan on wearing this amidst other tailcoat wearing folks at white-tie functions or is this more of a "personal" choice? The answer to that question may determine how much this matters.

Was planning to use them to attend white tie functions, as in Washington, D.C. or London. The tailor indicated the pockets were around the front of the jacket, similar to lounge jackets, except upon returning home, I realized the front of the jackets were to be cut away, so I guess she was actually thinking of waist pockets similar to those on waist coats.

BTW, I've read about tailcoat pockets for gloves and scarves. Are these on the outside or inner side of the tails? I can't imagine reaching under the tails for those accessories, but would be insterested in having these.

dopey wrote:The pockets go in the tails, not on the waist. That said, besom pockets cut into the waist seam (if you have one) wouldn't be the end of the world.

Do you plan on wearing this amidst other tailcoat wearing folks at white-tie functions or is this more of a "personal" choice? The answer to that question may determine how much this matters.

Dreadful - I would suggest that you have her make a new one.

Not much choice I suppose if a proper evening dress tailcoat is to be worn in international circles. But she insist I pay for it, of course.

According to her, the original tailcoat won't be wasted, as I can still wear them in China, including HK SAR. For the moment, I can think of that newly-opened ballroom next to the Temple of Tranquility near Nanjing Road West where lessons can be had. I do need tuition to learn the Waltz properly.

And where should tailcoat pockets for gloves and scarves be located exactly on the tails. Are these on the outside or inner side of the tails?

DFR wrote:Dreadful - I would suggest that you have her make a new one.

HappyStroller wrote:
And where should tailcoat pockets for gloves and scarves be located exactly on the tails. Are these on the outside or inner side of the tails?

DFR wrote:Dreadful - I would suggest that you have her make a new one.

Surely these should be entrusted to the cloak room attendant for safe keeping?

Would be useful for those occassions when the wind is not blowing or when one needs the hands free for more sensitive tasks.

And whose to know whether the cloakroom is existent in many places nowadays, especially in Shanghai where cloakroom attendants are regarded as undesirable future pension liabilities?

DFR wrote:

HappyStroller wrote:
And where should tailcoat pockets for gloves and scarves be located exactly on the tails. Are these on the outside or inner side of the tails?

DFR wrote:Dreadful - I would suggest that you have her make a new one.

Surely these should be entrusted to the cloak room attendant for safe keeping?

I own a tailcoat made in the 1940s which according to sartorial tradition sports a hidden pocket at the inside of the left tail close to the center seam. I cannot imagine that it had been intended for gloves or scarves (just imagine the appearance of your weighted tail!) but for something light like tickets or perhaps even a (small) handkerchief.

Thank you for your helpful answer about the likely location for a pocket on the tailcoat, Rudolf.

Wonder if there could be a good reason why those earlier 19th Century top hats were much, much taller than those of the 20th Century?

Rudolf wrote:I own a tailcoat made in the 1940s which according to sartorial tradition sports a hidden pocket at the inside of the left tail close to the center seam. I cannot imagine that it had been intended for gloves or scarves (just imagine the appearance of your weighted tail!) but for something light like tickets or perhaps even a (small) handkerchief.