The London Lounge

Rollino vs. Rope:

Can someone explain the difference to me (in how each is created)? Is it padding vs. fabric?

thanks,
chris

Not sure, but I think "rope" means that there is a piece of wadding or "pipecleaner" that creates the rise at the sleevehead, and rollino is created simply by leaving the shoulder seam closed and not pressed open.

Tailors, correct me if I am wrong.

As I understand it, roping involves padding while rollino does not.

Unless someone who actually knows says otherwise, I am going to assume they are the same concept in different languages. The different technique by which rope/rollino is achieved seems more a function of the tailor's habits and style and the customer's needs than a defining characteristic of the term.

But if a tailor comes along and says "this is how I do rollino and this is how I do rope," then I will be convinced.

I always thought they were the same, just a different terminology.

Rope (English), Rollino (Italian) and Cigarette (French) refer to the same sartorial embellishment of the shoulder that can be acheived naturally or through the use of a cigarette-like rolled wad of padding that looks like a rope.

alden wrote:Rope (English), Rollino (Italian) and Cigarette (French)

Is there an American term for that shoulder?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Cufflink79 wrote:

alden wrote:Rope (English), Rollino (Italian) and Cigarette (French)

Is there an American term for that shoulder?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

What Americans don't speak English?

Interesting historically padded shoulders used to be called American shoulders in the 19th century - see N. Jones 'The Cut of Men's Clothes' p121. Jones also writes that many men preferred unpadded shoulders right up the 1870's. This suggests that if you go back far enough all shoulders were natural. I suspect that the Neapolitan trend to unpadded shoulders with the waterfall is just an anacronistc continuation of how all shoulders were once made.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

Rope is achieved by use of several elements. First, the sleeve head will have a slightly larger circumference than that of a sleeve which is not roped. This means that more fabric will be eased in at the seem, and that creates a sort of 'bulge' which can be filled up. For the filling up purpose I myself like to use a special type of very soft wadding cut into a particular shape. I never use cigarettes, but sometimes I do use one (or more) wee bananas. Yep. Bananas.