The London Lounge

Hello all,

Are there any particular suit-makers who flare out sleeves at the end near the wrist? (kind of like boot-cut pants)

If I wanted a suit coat which did that and the trousers to be boot-cut as well, which bespoke designers would be the best?

thanks,
chris

Not sure why you'd want this -- but . . .

http://www.englishcut.com/archives/2005_04.html

kirsch wrote:Hello all,

Are there any particular suit-makers who flare out sleeves at the end near the wrist? (kind of like boot-cut pants)

If I wanted a suit coat which did that and the trousers to be boot-cut as well, which bespoke designers would be the best?

thanks,
chris

Have a look at my weblog, under the heading 'unusual jackets'.
I have just made two jackets that had flared cuffs.

www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com

Mr. Merrion,

How did the flared cuffs turn out? Good/Bad idea?

thanks,

Chris

FWIW, I think that it is a bad idea. The sleeves should be tapered rather than flared to give a more elegant line to the arm. It is the timeless way to go.

Well, maybe I am wrong about the "flare," but take a look at this post (silhouettes wiki):

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... ht=kilgour

Scroll down to the pictures of the Huntsman coats. The second one--check out the sleeve at the bottom. It looks flared to me. Maybe they are just unbuttoned or something, but I like that look.

Is it not flared at all? Just the angle?

I believe the Huntsman coats have yet to be finished with buttons, so they are opening at the sleeve vents and give the flared look. I think flared sleeves are at least as big a mistake as bell bottomed suit trousers.

I believe the Huntsman coats have yet to be finished with buttons, so they are opening at the sleeve vents and give the flared look.

Exactly. You can get the same flared look, by unbuttoning 1 or 2 buttons on the sleeve. (Oh no...I'm new here and this is my first post...I hope I don't get shot for saying that )

It is also from the cuffs being folded tight rather than being free and circular as the arms are. That puts the whole circumfrence of the cuff as two strainght lines making them appear flared.

.

kirsch wrote:Mr. Merrion,

How did the flared cuffs turn out? Good/Bad idea?

thanks,

Chris

The sleeves turned out fine Chris.
I have made these kind of sleeves many, many times for various tailors in the UK when I was a trade jacket maker.
The only thing I was not keen on with these particular sleeves, they were piped with a matching lining trim around the edges.
The style is very individual, sleek and a pesonal touch on a bespoke garment you may want to order, not someone elses idea of right and wrong. When they are done right and in proportion, which is the most important aspect, they look good.
Remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and surely bespoke clothing is about how it makes you feel and expressing your individuality?

Thomas I. Kim wrote:In my opinion, when done right, flared sleeves can look extremely sleek. Also, I always understood flared sleeves to be a postive characteristic of a true Neapolitan jacket. Just take a look at these Rubinaccis:





Tom

Tom,

I can't speak for huntsman, but I can tell you that Rubinacci does not make a flared sleeve. He prefers a very tapered sleeve and the pictures are a bit of an optical illusion.

The trumpet that you are referring on Naples jackets to takes place at the sleevehead and not the cuff. At least that is how I understand it and it is certainly so with Rubinacci.

.

Huntman's are definitely not known for flared cuffs. In certain photographs of suits on dummies cuffs can look flared. this was a style often made in the late 1960's early 1970's before the leaner suit became fashionable. I recently made a suit with flared cuffs for Denzel Washington for a movie being made called American Gangster. It looked very good, but then the movie was set in harlem in 1970. Perfect!

leonard

I saw the photos of Mr. Washington in Leonard's shop. Not clothing most of us would wear, to be sure, but nonetheless very impressive stuff that captures the era perfectly.