The London Lounge

I think this is my first post in this particular forum. I recently received a sports jacket from a travelling tailor and would like your thoughts on its fit and overall cut. This is my first order from this tailor and I had one fitting after placing the order. (Tailor's name is currently withheld so as not to influence anyone's opinions).

I've already received valuable insight from an experienced member but would appreciate additional comments.

Details:
Lightweight navy-colored hopsack fabric
2 buttons (blue-grayMOP from Tender Buttons - Thanks to members couch and dan328 for helping me choose these)
Side vents
Patch hip pockets

Photos are all in my member album (MP's album)

A few small nits to pick may be pressing problems, not tailoring issues.

Overall cut is very attractive. I'd say it is flattering, but I have no real idea of what lies beneath and shouldn't presume too much about that.

Dear Mpolanthan:

That is a very handsomely tailored jacket.

I like the nice long two button roll of the lapel, very conservative looking.

I would have to say those are "goldilocks side vents". In which they are not too high and not too short, but just right.

If I had one made I would have it in DB and SB, (ok thats two )

The only difference is, I would use flap pockets and brass buttons for that classic blazer look.

Enjoy your new jacket.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Murali: the cloth is so dark that it is a bit hard to see. Overall, it looks very good. From the side view, it appears that the vents are kicking out a little, and this is probably the result of a short back balance up top.

Other than that, I might put the button point a bit higher. As an aesthetic matter, I would spread the front buttons out a bit more: 4.5" apart at least. I would prefer an open seam at the shoulder (i.e., no little roll or bump at the sleevehead) but that too is purely aesthetic and a matter of taste.

Again, very nice overall, from what I can see.

In the side view there is a noticeable S shape to the line of the jacket down the back. My question to the experts is whether this is ideal or correct, or whether, say, the proper line of the jacket is to fall in a straight line down the back?

How difficult is it for a tailor to achieve a straight line profile down the back while achieving a fair amount of waist suppression, as one can see in this jacket (and which looks quite smart)?

Thank you gents for all the comments.

Concordia wrote:Overall cut is very attractive. I'd say it is flattering, but I have no real idea of what lies beneath and shouldn't presume too much about that.

To give you an idea what my regular jackets look like, I've uploaded some pictures of a dark blue sportsjacket with a tan windowpane into my album. I, too, believe that this is a more attractive cut.

Cufflink79 wrote:If I had one made I would have it in DB and SB, (ok thats two )

Sigh...that would indeed be nice.

manton wrote:Murali: the cloth is so dark that it is a bit hard to see. Overall, it looks very good. From the side view, it appears that the vents are kicking out a little, and this is probably the result of a short back balance up top.

I've added to the same album lightened versions of the same pics. The colors may no longer be accurate but any fit issues should be more evident.

manton wrote:I would prefer an open seam at the shoulder (i.e., no little roll or bump at the sleevehead) but that too is purely aesthetic and a matter of taste.

You know, I hadn't even noticed that since the fabric is so lightweight. I would really hate that bump were the fabric heavier.

Doug wrote:In the side view there is a noticeable S shape to the line of the jacket down the back. My question to the experts is whether this is ideal or correct, or whether, say, the proper line of the jacket is to fall in a straight line down the back?

I'd be curious as well. I've always liked the S, when it hugs the person's back.

Doug wrote:In the side view there is a noticeable S shape to the line of the jacket down the back. My question to the experts is whether this is ideal or correct, or whether, say, the proper line of the jacket is to fall in a straight line down the back?

It is dependant on the tailor and client, really. Personally, I am a fan of a rather pronounced S curve, (although too much curve severly limits the jackets movement.

~James

I would say there is very little to change here, if anything.

Is the shirt you are wearing bespoke? I mean was a pattern made etc to fit you?

Cheers

alden wrote:Is the shirt you are wearing bespoke? I mean was a pattern made etc to fit you?

Yes, by a local NY shirtmaker. However, I find it a bit loose fitting these days.

Am I seeing a bit of a ridge forming under the back of the collar in the side view? if so, this could be a shirt problem. Sometimes you will see this kind of ridge when one is wearing a RTW shirt that is too big under a bespoke coat.

M Alden

alden wrote:Am I seeing a bit of a ridge forming under the back of the collar in the side view? if so, this could be a shirt problem. Sometimes you will see this kind of ridge when one is wearing a RTW shirt that is too big under a bespoke coat.

M Alden

Ah...quite possible as that shirt is rather loose but it doesn't seem to be visible in the other photos. Something to keep an eye on as I wear the jacket with better fitting shirts.

It is something to keep an eye on. If it is just the shirt then there is no problem, if it is not then there is something else going on....