The London Lounge

Hello all,

Being new to the idea of bespoke design/tailoring, I am trying to read as much as possible on forums like londonlounge and places like Thomas Mahon's website.

While there is a vast amount of material to read on each website, I was curious if there was someplace a more summarized, pooled-together list of terms/definitions about bespoke tailoring.

I'd like to give an example of what I mean:

I was in a men's store the other day, and I told a salesman that I was disappointed that I could not find any shoulders with "lips on the edges." He informed me that the term for that was called "rope shoulder" (maybe I got it wrong...maybe he said "rolled shoulder").

In any event, is there a place where I can read up on terms/definitions like these? If possible, I'd like to be able to read a guide that would explain to me what to ask for when talking to a designer (ie what is the term called for a very tapered-in-the-waist english cut?).

I realize I could just read the thousands of articles in this forum, but that seems a bit tedious.

Any "bespoke for dummies" books out there?


Thanks,
Chris

A good place to start would be Etutee's posts under the Articles section.

Try Manton's book: http://www.amazon.com/Suit-Machiavellia ... 0060891866

kirsch wrote:
I realize I could just read the thousands of articles in this forum, but that seems a bit tedious.

Any "bespoke for dummies" books out there?


Thanks,
Chris

I also wanted to add that their really is no shortcut to learning about bespoke tailoring. It's something that takes a while to learn and understand, but it is worth the effort. You would be better off taking the time to read as much as you can before heading to the tailor in order to get your money's worth from him. There are so many variables in bespoke suiting when compared to mtm and rtw that it is definately worthwhile to know what it is that you want or dont want so you can take full advantage of what bespoke suiting offers.

The best glossary I saw is in the third volume of "The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier" (eidted by A. A. White, Caxton Publishing, London). There are several editions of this book, published in 1920s, 1930s and 1950s.

A more readily available work with a good glossary is Alan Flusser's "Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion" (HarperCollins, 2002).

Andrey

Thanks for the recommendation of my book. It does not have a glossary, but unlike most clothing books out there, it does have an extensive index. I talk about bespoke clothing quite a bit, particularly in Ch. 9, but the topic is everywhere.

I agree that Dressing the Man's glossary is good, but it is not really focused on bespoke clothing. It's more general. Style and the Man (Flusser's prior book) actually discusses bepsoke clothing far more than Dressing. No glossary, however.

One more stop on the manton train: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=5067

He has an excellent post on suit silhouettes in this thread, and while it is not a bespoke glossary, I think you will find that many of the relevant terms are discussed. Even if it is not exactly what you are looking for, you will probably be glad you found it.

kirsch wrote:Hello all,

Being new to the idea of bespoke design/tailoring, I am trying to read as much as possible on forums like londonlounge and places like Thomas Mahon's website.

While there is a vast amount of material to read on each website, I was curious if there was someplace a more summarized, pooled-together list of terms/definitions about bespoke tailoring.

I'd like to give an example of what I mean:

I was in a men's store the other day, and I told a salesman that I was disappointed that I could not find any shoulders with "lips on the edges." He informed me that the term for that was called "rope shoulder" (maybe I got it wrong...maybe he said "rolled shoulder").

In any event, is there a place where I can read up on terms/definitions like these? If possible, I'd like to be able to read a guide that would explain to me what to ask for when talking to a designer (ie what is the term called for a very tapered-in-the-waist english cut?).

I realize I could just read the thousands of articles in this forum, but that seems a bit tedious.

Any "bespoke for dummies" books out there?


Thanks,
Chris

Chris,
My website is also a 'blog'
It documents day to day activities, you may find it helpfull.
You may feel why look at another blog? mine has a difference, I cut AND make all my own work, it has plenty of technical info and terms