The London Lounge

Bored and should be working.....

I have lost a bunch of weight and kept it off for a number of years. (45 pounds and over four years.) I have had trousers re-cut to good success. I'm wondering about doing a similar number on some coats.

I have at least 10 that need to be done, mostly stuff that is over five years old. Can suit coats and odd jackets be successfully 're-cut?' FWIW these jackets are all 54s from Zegna or Pal Zileri and now I'm a nearly perfect off da hook 52 in Isaia-- of which I have a fair number and like.

I don't know that I like all of them enough to do them all but some are quite nice. If it's possible to have done well I'd probably go ahead. I'm not interested in converting these coats to an Isaia-style coat but mention it as a reference because I understand Zegna 54s are bigger even than Isaia 54s--and I'm talking about going all the way down to a 52.

I suppose what I'm really asking is if this is even possible both practically and 'cost-effectively'--I don't want to dump the coin into them and be unhappy with the result. But I really don't want to donate or consign them.... I suppose I could wear them over sweaters.

Apologies--this isn't 'bespoke' oriented but I wanted to try here before the other fora....

I had suits recut due to a weight loss of about 35 lbs.

A skilled tailor can charge anywhere from $200 to $1,000 + per two piece suit depending upon the amount of the work. A recut is a heck of alot of work.

My Savile Row guy charged an horrific price, but these were full recuts. I probably paid an average of $1,000 + for each 3 piece suit. He explained that everything had to be taken apart and put together by hand. It was either recut or give them away. I bit the bullet because of the initial cost of the suits. Happily, the recuts were better than than the originals.

A full recut will involve cutting-off the shoulders, taking-in the sides and back, and shortening on the coat. A lesser tailor will just take-in the coat. This type of alteration is cheaper, but the effect is to pull back the suit on your torso. It's a quick and cheap job, but not always satisfactory.

Ultimately, you have to bring-in the clothes to a skilled tailor and see if it's worth the expense. An honest tailor will tell you whether or not a satisfactory alteration is possible. Sometimes a recut is not possible if too much was lost in the pants. You might want to have just one suit altered as a test.

I personally think that the expense of a good recut is only justified on either bespoke and top of the line MTM. Take a long and hard look at each suit to determine if it's worth the expense. In my rush to get my suits altered I had some lesser ones done which I wore only once or twice.

In any event, congratulations!

I personally think that the expense of a good recut is only justified on either bespoke and top of the line MTM.

Thanks, Mark. That cuts right to it and is exactly the kind of advice I was looking for.

Murphy-

Listen to your Uncle Eddie: If you lost that much weight, you deserve a reward. If there are any of these jackets you really love, see if you can fnd someone who can recut them but I'm for going shopping. Everything else goes to your friends or to charity.
Go for some custom stuff, its the same price and its for you. If you live in NYC, give me a call and we'll get in trouble.

Mr. Hayes,

Thanks for the kind words and invitation. Nothing (well, few things) would give me more pleasure than to get into trouble in NYC with you. Alas, I'm based in Seattle and the last time I made it to Manhattan was over a year ago. I do hope to get back before too long....