Fresco or tropical worsted?

[kolecho]

I am after a suit in mid grey for spring/summer use.

- Between a Holland & Sherry fresco (9-10oz) and Lesser tropical worsted (8oz), which would give a better looking mid grey suit?

- Would one be more hard wearing than the other?

[manton]

I have both. Or, actually, I have frescos from the Minnis book (varitey of weights; mine are 10) and tropicals from the Lesser Superfine Tropicals book (8/9 ounce). The key difference is that the SFTs have a finer, smoother appearance whereas the frescos are made from thicker yarn are are a bit "rough" by comparison. Also, you can't do the SFT unlined, or at least I wouldn't, but the frescos shine unlined.

Basically, the SFT is a worsted cloth trying to look like any other, just lighter in weight. The fresco is pretty obviously a summer cloth. SFT is "better looking" if you want something crisp and smooth; I have found it to be the best lightweight cloth around by far. Fresco is "better looking" if you like surface interest and you prefer your clothes to have some seasonal variation and don't mind the slight downtick in formality.

They both wear excellently. Fresco probably has the edge, especially as the weights increase.

[kolecho]

Manton,

Do your fresco and Lesser SFT wear equally as 'cool'?

[manton]

Unlined fresco generally wears a bit cooler. I have, but have not yet made up, some very heavy open weave mohair fresco. One other member who has had that made says that it's fine in a light breeze, but in still air it is an oven. However, that cloth might be as heavy as 15 ounces (I don't think any of us knows for sure).

That said, the principle holds. Unlined open weave cloth needs a breeze to do its job well. In still, stifling air, it won't avail you much.

The Lesser SFT is otherwise the coolest lined wool cloth I have experienced.

[Concordia]

I'd go further to say that for some metabolisms e.g., mine), 10oz fresco can be stiflingly hot in an airless room. It's scratchy in the way that flannel can be in humid weather. But in a breeze it's great. Also, although it has a slightly marled surface that can make it seem a little more informal (great for "travel suits" back when people wore good clothes to get on airplanes), there are some really great chalk stripes that mimic flannel to a surprising degree. Don't know if they are in the H&S book-- Minnis has them.

Also in the Minnis book are some very light frescoes that are much more refined than the 9-10oz. If you want a more subtle pattern than solid mid-grey or very simple stripes, however, you're better off with the Lesser SFT or Minnis Rangoon books.

[kolecho]

I had a H&S Crispaire jacket with patch pockets made up recently in navy. The drape is very nice, so I decided to get more cloth to have some pants made also.

I am contemplating either one more from the Crispaire book or try Lesser SFT. I should try a Lesser mid grey nailhead to experience the difference.

[Concordia]

I haven't compared directly, but it is my impression that Crispaire is a tad finer (in color and texture) than the Minnis frescoes, which are more classically "fresco"-y.

[kolecho]

I have seen both H&S and Minnis fresco books. Minnis is coarser and stiffer, but looks more porous.

[Will]

I have seen both H&S and Minnis fresco books. Minnis is coarser and stiffer, but looks more porous.

That holds true once the cloths are made up as well. The Minnis is a little coarser and stiffer in the ten ounce.