Regarding Silk

[Jackson]

Gentlemen,

I got into a conversation with an associate of mine today regarding the differences in silk in respect to country; i.e. Italian silk versus English silk (this can be extended to French silk, Thai silk, etc.) and knew if anyone could offer greater insight it would be the members of this forum. So in regards to silks what are the differences between the quality and characteristics that come out of the various countries? Does one tend to be more durable? One more textured? One whose color or shape holds up better? Are there national tendencies or is it a "six of one..." situation where the firm producing the product matters more than the country of origin? I know individuals who are quite loyal to buying, say, only English silk ties for example (my aforementioned associate), but is there more reasoning behind this train of thought than simple preference?

[Mulberrywood]

Jackson,

It sounds like you are asking about silk fabric as opposed to yarn, because there basically is no true English or Italian silk these days unless there is a hobbyist somewhere rasing silk worms... Although there certainly used to be.

We use English, Italian and Thai silks (and I am familar with French and Chinese silks) to make ties on a daily basis and the difference between the countries is not as big as the difference between the ways of weaving silk.

For example if we used a traditional Thai wooden hand loom to weave silk in Thailand there would be a difference when compared to an English oxford or Italian satin silk. But we could in theory duplicate any of the above silks anywhere.

So if the technology is transportable (which it is) it then becomes a matter of culture, artistic ability and inclination.

Very tightly woven silk tends to be more durable, and any country can weave tightly woven silk on a machine loom.

While some natural dyes hold up well in general modern chemical dyes are more dependable.

Thai silk tends to be brighter, and the hand dyed and woven silk requires the most skill.

England has some nice oxford silks with an interesting texture although Italy also has some great textures and Thailand has some interesting rough silks.

France makes some great tapestry silk in Lyon. Very useful if you have a chateau....

[culverwood]

The smooth silks are suitable for patterned material wheras the rough Thai silks are generally unpatterned. I prefer the Thai silk as a material for clothing and have a dinner jacket and trousers made from black Thai silk.

[Jackson]

Thank you to both Mulberrywood and culverwood for shedding a little more light on the subject for me.

Mulberrywood, how would you rate the current state of silk producing or weaving, etc. in the world? Much has been said of, for example, the decline of mills producing shirtings in England, so how are silk fabric producers fairing these days (not just in England, but anywhere)?

[Mulberrywood]

Mulberrywood, how would you rate the current state of silk producing or weaving, etc. in the world? Much has been said of, for example, the decline of mills producing shirtings in England, so how are silk fabric producers fairing these days (not just in England, but anywhere)?

Jackson,


Some random thoughts:

The quality of silk being woven these days is very good and in some ways getting better.

China does not weave beautiful necktie silk compared to Italy, but China is improving. Italy still weaves some beautiful textures and the best grenadines.

England has some wonderful rep and Oxford weaves. Over the years the number of mills have gone down in England but now and then a few small ones start up.

France stil weaves in Lyon great silks for wall hangings.

Thailand has some beautiful silk for drapes and for the adventurous for ties.

Brazil could prove surprising in the future.

India has lots of sari silk which can be complex and beautiful, although I don't like the texture of some of their silk yarns.

Indonesia has some nice small scale producers of silk yarn at the village level.

In the US there are artisanal weavers of silk art. We sell Thai silk yarn to some of these weavers and they can be very sophisticated.

Natural dyes are one of the few areas where silk mills are not as good as the past, but to be fair the demand for naturally dyed silks is small. And modern silk mills are very good at matching colors when you present them with a design.

[Jackson]

Mulberrywood, your random thoughts were quite insightful. Thanks!