My first custom shirt/Tom James

[Chris Rimby]

I just received my first custom shirt ordered from a local tailor and while the fit is certainly better than a RTW shirt I'm still not completely satisfied. Basically the tailor took my measurements and then the shirt was made up north (New Jersey I think) and then shipped back to Atlanta. The cloth seems a little cheap and there are several unclipped threads hanging out of it. I paid $185 for it.

So...that brings me to my question. The only other alternative I can find in Atlanta is Tom James. Have any of you had any experience with their custom shirts? Their Ventura line seems to be what I'm looking for:

http://www.tomjames.com/custshirts/vn/v ... atures.asp

(I plan to order a true bespoke shirt and suit from Thomas Mahon the next time he comes into town [November]...I'm just hoping to find a good shirtmaker here in town....)

Thanks in advance for any help or advice

Aspiring Sartorialist,

Chris Rimby

[DonB]

The cloth seems cheap and there are several unclipped threads hanging out of it. I paid $185 for it.

Hello Chris,

I assume you are referring to a MTM shirt? If so, I do think it is odd that you did not get to pick the fabric. I have several MTM shirts, and I did get to pick the fabric each and every time. That way you get what you bargained for, which is at $185 essential (at least to me).

As for the unclipped threads, I have seen that as well. It is not uncommon, I do not think it is a major problem. Just ask your tailor/salesperson to have them removed.

Kind regards,
Don

[Chris Rimby]

I guess it was a MTM...though they call it 'custom'. I did pick the cloth but it was glued to a piece of cardboard for display so I couldn't really judge the weight. It's reassuring that you've seen those hanging threads before though...I thought they were a mark of carelessness. I guess the true test will be to see how it wears in the coming weeks. Thanks for your reply.

Chris

[styleguy]

First, you should always be able to pick your fabric whether you are buying made to measure or bespoke shirts. If not you should not do business with anyone who does not allow you to make a choice in cloths but wants you to spend your hard earned money.

Second, I would run like the wind and stay clear of Tom James. If I were you I would hold out and buy some very nice bespoke shirts. It will be well worth the wait! believe me.
The Real Bespoke!
www.marlonaustin.com

[Chris Rimby]

First, you should always be able to pick your fabric whether you are buying made to measure or bespoke shirts. If not you should not do business with anyone who does not allow you to make a choice in cloths but wants you to spend your hard earned money.

Second, I would run like the wind and stay clear of Tom James. If I were you I would hold out and buy some very nice bespoke shirts. It will be well worth the wait! believe me.
The Real Bespoke!
www.marlonaustin.com

Thanks for your reply. What do you know about Tom James that makes you think I should stay clear?

[jekarwoski]

(I plan to order a true bespoke shirt and suit from Thomas Mahon the next time he comes into town [November]...I'm just hoping to find a good shirtmaker here in town....)

To me, using Tom James doesn't mesh with "shirtmaker here in town..." I have no
experience with the firm, but my guess is after one of their "consultants" visits you, the measurements get sent off to a factory or some shirtmaker somewhere. This isn't a lot different than the expereince you described. The result will be dependent on the skill of
the person taking measurements and how willing they are (and what their contract with the shirtmaker/factory allows) to make personal modifications and adjustments. Again, nothing against TJ since I haven' used them.

Somewhat similar to your expereince, I used to use the Individualized Shirts service
offered by a local men's store, waiting until the rep visited the store so I could work
directly with him. Despite a great dialogue with him, the shirts just didn't work out -
mismatched patterns were the biggest problem, and I don't mean in realtively minor
areas like sleeve plackets. These were in obvious areas, like across the
front halves, the cuffs ending on different stripes, same for the collars.

I'm sorry I don't know of anyone in Atlanta.

[Mark Seitelman]

This shirt is made by Individualized Shirts. It is its top of the line make and is sold under Oxxford Bespoke and y'Pres labels.

It's a better level of manufacture than the regular IS shirt. If the IS shirt fits you, then this will be identical.

It's a MTM shirt. The craftsmanship is excellent. The collar is handsewn as well as part of the sleeve. The collar has a unique structure in that there is a light interlining at the back for comfort and a heavier one at the ends of the collar. I would say that it is manufacture is better than Turnbull.

On the negative side patterns are not matched at the shoulder and cuff placket. Patterns are matched on the front placket and the pocket. Patterns are matched at the split yoke. If pattern matching is a non-negotiable matter, then this shirt is not for you.

[Richard3]

On the negative side patterns are not matched at the shoulder and cuff placket. Patterns are matched on the front placket and the pocket. Patterns are matched at the split yoke. If pattern matching is a non-negotiable matter, then this shirt is not for you.

Every time I order a shirt from my shirtmaker I insist on pattern matching. The last time I did so he told my that back in the old days (they are making shirts for more than 5 decades) nobody cared for pattern matching and customers today are more demanding. I would have guessed that it was just the other way around.

[TVD]

No pattern matching is a very modern concern, and not one that originated in the English tradition.

However, back then most shirts were white, so there was little to match.

[Chris Rimby]

Thanks for everyone's replies. I think what I may do is to try a Tom James solid color shirt and save the patterned shirts for Thomas Mahon.

Chris

[jekarwoski]

Thanks Mark for helping me remember the connections among TJ, IS and Oxxford (bespoke) shirts. I think you mentioned this after the LL meeting at Oxxford on 57th street.

Let us know how the shirt (and TJ experience) works out, Chris.

[Chris Rimby]

Thanks Mark for helping me remember the connections among TJ, IS and Oxxford (bespoke) shirts. I think you mentioned this after the LL meeting at Oxxford on 57th street.

Let us know how the shirt (and TJ experience) works out, Chris.

No problem. I should have some news for you in about a month.

[Mark Seitelman]

In support of the idea that pattern matching is a recent ideal, the patterns were not matched on a Lydendecker poster for Arrow Shirts which was issued in the 1920's.

The former bespoke manager at NYC Turnbull & Asser told me that pattern matching at the shoulder was introduced to Turnbull only a few years ago. However, there is no matching at the sleeve placket.

[bespoke couture]

Tom James is oookay, if you are on a limited budget and want to experience mtm clothing. If you want to experience true luxury try bespoke shirts with non fused interlings. Handmade bespoke shirts will stand the test of time if cared for properly.

[SouthPender]

Tom James is oookay, if you are on a limited budget and want to experience mtm clothing. If you want to experience true luxury try bespoke shirts with non fused interlings. Handmade bespoke shirts will stand the test of time if cared for properly.

Mark, it would seem that there is much to be said for fused collars on shirts, and no less an authority than Alex Kabbaz appears to consider them superior (if done properly) to non-fused collars. If I remember correctly, Alex noted that a good fused collar will lie flatter than will a non-fused one--and not be subject to the waviness found with the latter.