The London Lounge

From conversations I've had with tailors, I gather that tailcoats (and morning coats) are some of the most devilishly hard things to put together. So much so that there are usually specialists within the big firms who make them, including A&S, Kilgour, and the like. Conversely, there are several smaller firms/solo practicioners who take a pass on the problem entirely. One NY-based tailor, for example, said "I don't do that-- that's Raphael's thing."

Now, most of us don't usually feel the urge to commission real formal wear. I certainly don't have the need. But among those who have, did you end up having to shop for a place to do the job that was different from your normal supplier of suits? Or were you blessed with knowing someone already who could handle the challenge without breaking a sweat?

My morning coat was made by Poole, and as you mention, they do use specialist tailors (although my usual cutter cut it, but then he does a few of them...). In fact, they had to do it in three weeks without a basted fitting, and it is perfect.

My tails were made by a tailor I use in Prague. He is in his late forties, and last did one as an apprentice. A lot of thought, planning and experimementation went into it, and although the result is absolutely fine, it did involve considerable patience on both sides to get there.

If I had to do it again, I would always go to a specialist, simply because it reduces the risk so much.

Back when Frank was sharing space with Mr. Ragusa, Ragusa was making a tailcoat for one of his clients. I watched the progress (though never an actual fitting) and it looked quite good. Logsdail can certainly make a tailcoat, and a morning coat for that matter. I bet Raphael can too, but I have never asked him or seen one in the shop that I can recall. However, he is making a morning coat right now. He said it was the first one he has made in about ten years. Also, I know that Cheo can make them and I have seen them in his shop. Vincent, no so sure. Fioravanti, I would guess that he can, but I don't know.

As for Frank, I would have to ask him. My guess would be that he has never tried, but that he would be willing to try. He would doubtless make a muslin first out of some horrible neon orange cloth or something, just to be sure his pattern was on the right track. Frank's muslins are hilarious. He could sell them to Warner Brothers for the next Batman movie.

Tail coats are difficult to make, but the effort is always worth it. without doubt, a well-cut and fitted tail coat, when put togetehr with a white vest, etc, is the most elegant articles of clothing a gentlman can wear. I make usually about one or two each year. I have not made a morning coat since moving to the US 15 years ago, but might have to make one within the next couple of weeks for the star of a movie I am working on at the moment.

Leonard

Len, didn't I see a full morning rig in progress in your shop about a year ago? Black coat, linen vest, striped trousers? I was sure we talked about it. You had a client who needed it for some even in England.

You can always go to Knize in Vienna.

They made this one, probably the most famous tail coat of the 20th century:

"Wie einst Lili Marleen"... (sigh)