Unlined Shoes

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dopey
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Wed May 31, 2006 3:50 pm

Has anyone experience with unlined laced shoes?

I have seen references to unlined bespoke shoes in the Vass book as well as references to unlined shoes in the old AA/Eskys, but I have never seen them in person. These seem preferable to the perforated shoes I have seen in the Vass book, and, for many uses, preferable also to shoes of woven leather or sandals.

Some technical questions: Are the seams exposed on the inside? Are they finished the same as ordinary lining seams? How are the toe and heel boxes handled if there is no lining to sandwich them between? Any leathers work particularly well or poorly in this use?

Most importantly . . . are they any more comfortable in the summer and are they less durable or less able to hold their shape than standard lined shoes?
TVD
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:56 pm
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 2:56 pm

Only ever had unlined suede loafers. They still have a toe cap (partly lined therefore), and yes, the stitching is exposed and has to be done rather neatly.

I am not sure I observed any significant increase in breathability. Obviously they are lighter, so a light bespoke construction less lining must be about as featherweight as it gets. Somebody should volunteer to try it out.
Will

Thu Jun 01, 2006 5:40 pm

I've seen three types for warmer temperatures: unlined suede chukkas, unlined Norwegian casuals, and woven or perforated shoes.

The Eastern Europeans make woven shoes, and the pair I tried on were indeed cooler than completely closed oxfords. Haven't indulged though.
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