Delhi and North

[E. Tage Larsen]

Dear Gentlemen,

I intend to travel to Delhi and give Vaish a try at a couple of suits after the monsoon season. Between fittings, I'd like to skirt the Himalayas and take in a little of the old Raj. As nearly every part of the above will be brand new to me, I had hoped that the cumulative wisdom of Lounge members that have traversed Northern India might be able to guide me along the way. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Most sincerely,

Eric Tage Larsen

[pchong]

I have a suit made by Vaish at Rivoli. This is the more famous Vaish...there are at least 2 tailors who call themselves Vaish at Connought Circus downtown New Delhi.

I did the suit because the material I came across in his shop was a vintage Indian flannel, moltted, 14 oz or so, and very beautiful. Be aware of the suit, while it may meet the requirements of the general public, it will not stand up to scrutiny of a LL member. The selection of materials are mainly zegna and Loro Piana, with very limited English material, and they try very hard to steer you away from Indian material.

The work is mainly machine - interestingly in a country where the cost of labour is very low. The cut is military English. They don't have a selection of lining material, nor any choice of padding or interlinings. Those they have are very heavy and stiff. The coat I had a SB, peak lapel and is very constructd. For some reason, their house style is such that the front quarters is significantly longer than the back.

Caveat emptor.

[E. Tage Larsen]

Dear Pchong:

I was looking to import my own fabrics. Though, I admit, I'm painfully unaware at present what sort of taxes and tariffs there are to bring materials into India.

Were they able to work with you much, specifically on the front/back balance? As i am of conservative means, I hoped Vaish would fill a couple of basics in my wardrobe without offending sensitive eyes.

Any further observations or recomendations about New Delhi would be greatly welcomed.

Many thanks,

e.

[pchong]

When I had my suit made by Asok Vaish, I enquired if he would work on material I brought...and he was most reluctant.

Some of my observations on his suits:

1. the cut is, I guess best described, as British military. Very structured shoulders, despite pleadings to use minimal paddings, the coat still ended up with a good 1" pad on the shoulders. The shoulders extend the deltoids about an inch, and causes a slight dimple on the sleevehead. No rope, but the large shoulders cause the fabric to drape quite nicely - a la waterfall on the sleeves around the deltoids. Generous drape across the back.

2. handwork was very little. Very disappointing, considering cost of labout in India. Though I had specified hand everything, and he complained to my Indian staff who accompanied me in Hindi that the suit was very heavy in handwork. (BTW, my Indian staff member was impressed - "sir," he said, "this is the most expensive tailor in India"...)The coat had a floating canvass, but the canvass/interlining was machine stitched.

3. the trousers were completely machine made.

4. I wanted all the material he had on the beautiful moltted flannel I have seen in a while. I understand it may be about 50 years old. The fabric is Indian made, heavy, drapes beautifully, and has a beautiful hand. I had two pairs of trousers made...initially I wanted a 3 piece, but he said he did not have sufficient cloth, and after cutting the trousers, he made a mistake on the fishtail - didn't make one...and managed to scrounge another store for sufficient fabric for another pair. The second pair was made high back fishtail, as I wanted - higher than all my other fishtails made by other tailors. And a pair with belt loops. He automatically made the one sans fishtail lower rise.

5. He did not offer me a choice of linings...only a vegetable based celluloid was offerd, and of the two pair of trousers, both had different linings. Only black was available.

6. Asok was not completely able to take instructions on balance, stance, etc...but would do what he liked as his house style. I believe he apprenticed at Dege, but understand he only spent a very short time in Savile Row - like a summer or something like that. The firm was started by his father long time ago.

[E. Tage Larsen]

Dear Sir,

First, than you for your insight.

Your clear instructions and obvious conflict with Mr. Vaish's resolve seem to indicate that the experiment was a bit of a loss to you. I wonder if you have any photos of the garment that you could share with me either publicly or in pm?

As I am new to working with artisans, I had hoped Vaish would provide an adequate compromise between price and quality while in the region. Would you recommend them for some basics or could I read your remarks as a vote of little confidence?

Most sincerley,

Eric

[pchong]

Dear Eric,

As I said in my first post, caveat emptor. If you know what you want, and are prepared for the sacrifices I mentioned, should be ok...I think the suit is average to perhaps a tad better than average you would get from a bespoke tailor. And certainly, not close to LL standards. I have worked with many tailors in Asia. In Singapore, where I live, I have a tailor whom I have worked with on and off for more than 15 years. I have a gentleman in Bangkok who cuts beautifully, but since 2001 refuses to make suits with a floating canvass, so I would not use him anymore. And recently I have begun working with WW Chan in Hong Kong with completely satisfactory results. I have even made a 3/4 lined suit in linen with Jantzen (famed in the various fora as a value for money shirtmaker), and am quite satisfied. My mis(?)-adventure with Vaish is a good testimony why one should work with a tailor, and make him understand your needs.

Good Luck with Vaish.

[E. Tage Larsen]

Dear Pchong:

Again, thank you for your perspective and experience.

[pchong]

Here is a picture of the Vaish suit's coat:




Picture was taken with another pair of trousers during a single sitting at a photoshoot.

[E. Tage Larsen]

Dear Peter,

Thank you so much for taking the time to post images of the experiment. The fabric looks nice. I can only imagine. As you've mentioned, Vaish's signature style does seem heavily strucured and padded. I guess the net result is that i'm a bit uneven on my resolve - for which i thank you.

Without a side illustration it's difficult for me to picture the forward hang of the jacket. Because I am still educating myself on fit, would it be correct to say you enjoy wearing this jacket slightly long?

Again, thank you for sharing. I believe Chan is visiting NYC next month and i was thinking of trying something simple with them.

Most sincerely,

Eric

[pchong]

Dear Eric,

I am sorry I don't have a side profile photograph to illustrate how the coat hangs, especially the front quarters vs the tai balance, which to my eye is slightly off. The material is quite gorgeous, heavy, with fine nap, and very nice hand feel.

I don't prefer to wear the coat long, but I didn't have time to have it adjusted. I normally prefer a coat length which reaches the first joint of my thumb when my arms are relaxed by my side. The DB Chan shown elsewhere demonstrates my preference very well.

[tantris]

I've just returned from India where I had a suit made by Vaish at Rivoli. His work may not be up to Saville Row standards, but he is certainly among the best tailors in Asia.

I ordered a three piece suit made from a Dormeuil pinstripe fabric. The final product fit beautifully and had no mentionable flaws. The item was not entirely hand stiched, but at this price point I think it is a little too much to expect - even in India. My shoulder pads are also a little large and from my experience, this is a pan-Asia problem. He did offer me a choice of "fancy" linings, but I mad more fun picking out my own lining at the traditional markets where beautiful hand loomed silks - perfect for linings - are available on the cheap.

When I asked, Vaish was reluctant but willing to work with outside fabrics. For doing so, he fairly asks a premium.

Conclusion - worth having a suit stiched if you are in the area.

Kevin

[E. Tage Larsen]

Dear Kevin,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you're having as much success as Peter did (above.)

Is there any chance you'll post pictures?

My trip to India has been delayed but i hope to make it next year in the Autumn.

Most Sincerely,

Eric