The London Lounge

Please refer to scans below. I have some questions:

- When a coat is referred to as having a 'drape cut', does it have excess fabric in the chest and back like the jacket pictured below? FYI, the jacket pictured is from Kiton.

- It looks like this type of cut allows more freedom of movement than a more fitted English cut. Is that the essential difference to the wearer?

- The sleevehead seam looks like it protrudes beyond the shoulder bone; i.e.: Is that also another feature of this cut?

- What does the forum think of the appropriateness of this cut for business suits?

It looks to me that the jacket pictured has already molded to another person's body, not the wearer. I would not consider that an idea example of the Neapolitan fit. Particularly the shoulders are a problem. With a lightly constructed shoulder, the point to point measurement is critical, with the shoulder seam riding precisely at the corner of the shoulder. This jacket looks to be an inch or two too wide.

A much better example can be found on this forum in the post regarding the new London outpost of Rubinacci.

mrwynn wrote:It looks to me that the jacket pictured has already molded to another person's body, not the wearer. I would not consider that an idea example of the Neapolitan fit. Particularly the shoulders are a problem. With a lightly constructed shoulder, the point to point measurement is critical, with the shoulder seam riding precisely at the corner of the shoulder. This jacket looks to be an inch or two too wide.

A much better example can be found on this forum in the post regarding the new London outpost of Rubinacci.

I would agree that this shoulder is not correct for the wearer. However, if you contrast the slightly narrow shoulder line of young Rubinacci in the LL thread, with this picture of his father , you will see that a shoulder line that is equally narrow to the wearer's line is not de rigeur.

That being said, this jacket of Kolecho's does not fit.

One thing that I have noticed about SOME jacketsmade in Naples is theat the shoulder seam is placed further forward than many English jackets. THe effect is to give a more relaxed shoulder line than the self conscious shoulders back position that is seen even on rather natural shouldered British cuts.

If this jacket has excess fabric in the back, chest and shoulder, you might just have something that is the wrong size.

Also note the excessive length of the coat (relative to waist position, arm length, palm position) AND of the sleeve (I can't imagine a shirt that would show from beneath that sleeve). Just out of curiosity, what is the story behind these pictures?

Agreed on all the points made. The jacket, thankfully, is not mine. I found the scan from an online auction site.

Well, that explains it all. A bespoke garment on sale! The man in the picture effectively illustrates why the jacket cannot be sold

I'm pretty sure that coat is draped on a manaquin, rather than an actuall person.
I may be wrong, but look at the skin tone, it definately looks like plastic to me.

Most mannequins I know have neither beer gut nor wedding band. Must be getting more realistic all the time...

TVD wrote:Most mannequins I know have neither beer gut nor wedding band. Must be getting more realistic all the time...

Sorry, I should have mentioned my poor eyesight. looking straight at the picture I only see the horizontal stripes of the check pattern for instance. I have to tilt my head to see the vertical stripes.