The London Lounge

I have a few issues: first, can anyone point me to threads or pictures discussing this type of jacket?

Second, why doesn't the search feature ever seem to work, or search the forums (it seems limited to the other sections)?

David-

The search works for me, but I believe that you have spelled the item incorrectly. Here is a picture of my Sahariana. I picked it up on the cheap as I have always liked the style, but did not know how I would wear it. I find that it is great in my climate to wear over an open collared shirt and a summer sweater as the summer nights are quite cold here. I hope this helps you:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... =sahariana for more discussion.

Saharienne is French for a safari jacket, basically. For some reason, they're in this year.

The question is, not how to spell it, but from whom to get one. Bugelli may be a master shirtmaker, but master correspondent he is not. He was supposed to send me photos and/or samples and he has now failed me three times at least.

I really regret not building a wardrobe of these shirtjackets instead of jackets. I could mostly get away with it, and they are much less expensive to manufacture.

brescd01 wrote:I really regret not building a wardrobe of these shirtjackets instead of jackets. I could mostly get away with it, and they are much less expensive to manufacture.

But then you might end up looking like a character in a 1974 Bond film -- the Man With the Golden Bresch. A safari jacket is a good thing, but it shouldn't replace all your jackets.

I see an evolutionary relationship to the fabled Teplitz 'golf jackets' here. You may be interested to know that one prominent (Certified) Artisan declined my commission to make a modification of one of my many Sulka shirt/jacks with my cloth. Also declined by two shirtmakers, and even a Hong Kong tailor of good repute. The issue is that it falls between a shirtmaker and tailor, and there is a lot of machine work involved (the scourge of the cusotm tailors). I think the lining and shoulders take it out of the shirtmaker's realm, or at least that's my impression.

What, RJMan, you don't think I am man enough to look like Bond? Bond fought, what, one super-villain every few years? I, the Bresch, tackle 20 nuts/DAY!

David,

Try this link (they are the maker of some of the Teplitz Golf Jackets):

http://www.valstar.it/storia2.3.htm

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In their photo of Hemingway it is called: "Il Travel Coat" or Sahariana Metropolitane

When will I have the self-confidence to name garments after myself?

Any shmuck can claim the right to do it, if it's commissioned for you: e.g. "Modello Teplitz"

I imagine you introducing yourself to a nutty patient: "My name is Bresch. THE Bresch!".
Seriously now, I am not very sure about safari jackets being particularly economic to have made. As dr. Teplitz rightly pointed out, a shirtmaker would probably charge extra (if he took the commission) because for him it's a complicated, tailored garment (lapels, collar, coat sleeves etc.); a tailor, on the other hand, might eventually offer an irrelevant discount because the lack of canvassing work is compensated by other specific steps (taping seams, finishing everything on the inside), as well as the added difficulty of achieving proper fit with no padding or chest structure while cutting everything with minimum (if any) allowances (as it is typical in shirtmaking and makes it so difficult).
I took a length of linen to my shirtmaker last week asking for a shirt jacket and this nice old lady who never says "no" to me, this time rolled her eyes, sighed, smiled and finally said "I'll do it but don't press me, I need to be in the right mood for this" - still better an answer than dr. Teplitz got from his shirtmakers.

Dear Dr Bresch, with Safari jackets stick to RTW. Holland & Holland should be able to offer something, so should the other gunmakers.

A tailor will be unhappy because of the lack of padding and canvassing, a shirtmaker will hate the heavy fabric because it is difficult to pierce and all those lapels and pockets are unusual.

I tried a number of times, and all bespoke artisans failed me and my wallet.

Maybe Napels is a different proposition, but they will require your body to be present to fit it. In my view, this is actually one of the most difficult garnments to get really right. And there is a real danger that you will look like something out of a 70s Bond flick. Do you want to see pictures of the latest attempt that was created for me? I don't!

What about giving Alexander Kabbaz a call? If he cannot do it, nobody can.

There is no doubt in my mind that the AK CAN do it, the question is, WILL he do it?

The irony is, though no one has mentioned it, that we Americans have a traditonal garment identical in every way, the shirt jacket, usually made in Mackinaw fabric. I have one by Filson that I have not worn since leaving Minnesota. It is a very nice garment (mine is the single, not the double, aso that it can be warn under a roomy windproof garment.

The esteemed (Certified) tailor did initially agree to do the job, in part because I brought in two of my Sulka (Valstar made) models, fit and styling was deemed good, and I wanted a copy in effect. I had cloth, an interesting wool/cotton orange, made in Italy, and a few weeks later, I got a call saying t: (I paraphrase) "I don't want to do it, I would have to charge you too much (same price as tailoring a jacket), there is too much machine work, it's not worth the time it would take..."

I do agree that in this instance, RTW is preferable. I did entice a maker to take it on ultimately, and I will know in about 3 months how it works out. I use these things for travel and find them very practical. I don't want to look like an aspiring (or expiring) Hemingway, so my model is like the classic Valstar suede "baseball" jackets. This adds another dimension to the whole thing, in that the knit collar, cuffs, waistband, are not going to be done by a tailor or shirtmaker. I have a work around for this, and have had to sacrifice the knit waistband in favor of a elastic button extension on each side, like slacks. The Sahara-like jackets are for me too long, too bulky, too military, too David Mamet, since I don't travel with knives or guns. (hidden Geodon IM syringe pocket, David?)