The London Lounge

I have a chance in a lifestyle to commission a bespoke odd jacket or suit in Napoli this summer, and need advice on which to choose (jacket or suit), and what cloth I should use.

The criteria is as follows:
- It should reflect the essence of Neapolitan tailoring
- It should be hardwearing, and usable for warm to mild climate (about 15C - 25C)
- If it is a suit, the suit jacket should ideally also be usable as an odd jacket.

Questions:
- Should I get a suit or just an odd jacket?
- If I do get a suit, what cloth should I use so that the jacket is also usable as an odd jacket?
- If I bespeak an odd jacket, what cloth should I use?

Given the criteria, it seems that an unlined odd jacket in 10-12oz fresco would be appropriate given that it is largely jacket construction that distinguishes Neapolitan tailoring (reference made to recent Manton post), and that fresco is durable and appropriate for the intended weather.

Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks in advance.

I will be very interested to hear what people recommend as typifying Neopolitan style.

I would guess that fresco could be a little too cool to be a good three-season fabric.

The forum is alarmingly silent on this....

You may take my silence for envious sulking.

I have seen some stunning jackets by Loro Piana this season in a beautiful silk/cashmere mix. Very light weight and unlined.
A perfect warm weather jacket.
Should I find myself in your shoes,
I would commission a jacket in a similar material.

Perhaps not the best "hard wearing" fabric, but given the grace of the cut and the beauty of the fabric, I would be willing to compromise.

You have answered your own question. A fresco suit in blue or tan (see Minnis fresco book) in a 9-12 ozs weight would be an excellent choice. Ask for it to be made unlined with the spalla camicia if you want a very Neapolitan garment.

As long as you are going all the way to Naples you may just as well have a suit as opposed to a jacket. Make sure and ask for a high rise, more ample trouser. The Neapolitans will give you a painted on jeans like trouser if you don't specify otherwise.

If you plan on wearing the suit during the day go for tan. If you want to use it at night as well, choose blue. You could use either as an odd jacket if you wish.

Good luck.

I have a few practical suggestions to help you get the most out of your trip to Naples:

1. Don't go in August. The sartoria will be closed.

2. Plan at least a 14 day stay in Naples or the immediate vicinity. Capri, Amalfi coast are nice too. You will need to be available to visit your tailor regularly during your stay; plan for 4-5 visits minimum. You will need a minimum of 10-14 days to receive your completed suit.

3. Choose your tailor carefully. Choose a tailor who speaks English and can work to your schedule. There are many, many tailors in Naples. I know, for example, that the Rubinacci staff speak English and their tailors could turn around a suit in 10-14 days. Pre plan: contact the tailor now to discuss your timetable and requirements. Rubinacci’s base price is E3,100.

4. Choose cloth which is immediately available with the tailor; i.e., which is in stock with him and does not need to be ordered. This will save you significant time. Additionally, tailors stock cloth according to the Neapolitan taste; choosing from locally stocked cloth ensures your selection is true to the Neapolitan taste and style.

5. Choose the right cloth suitable for your intended use , season and style of tailoring which you desire. Consult your tailor.

Cloth selection is up to you; you know your needs best. But generally speaking,

For a completely unpadded suit, you will want linen or cotton.

For a "spalla camicia" – a lightly padded sports coat (which is the style one thinks of when we say "traditional Neapolitan style" ) - choose a tweed or flannel or fresco or other cloth in the weight suitable for your climate. Rubinacci has a large, beautiful collection of vintage sports coat cloth. But this is heavier cloth. One of a kind cloth, however.

If you want a suit, again, it is your choice. I personally think that a Summery, lighter colored, lightweight cloth, rather than dark, sober, cloth works best with the "spalla camicia" style you desire. Again, choose from what is in stock at the tailor shop.


6. Other bespoke adventures in Naples.

Consider having ties and shirts made for yourself during your visit. Even trousers.

---Marinella is a Neapolitan institution; they will make a bespoke tie for you in a 3-4 days. Their RTW tie is perfect as well if you have no special needs.

Go to Marinella on day one of your trip to observe the coats of their salesmen; you will see a number of different styles from different makers; don’t hesitate to ask who their tailor is.

Of course, also observe the conservative, generally muted tie colors and patterns Marinella sells. This is Neapolitan style: conservative.

Don’t expect brash colors or think ‘flash’ when you go to Naples; think conservative elegance. This is true Neapolitan style. Plan your selections and purchases accordingly.

---There are many shirt makers. A shirt maker such as Merolla & de L'Ero will do all of the shirt fittings in 2-3 days, but won't have the shirt finally completed for about 1 month. They can ship it to you.

Know the style you want; if you want a shirt in the Neapolitan style with "grinze", or shirring , at the shoulders, yoke and cuff, you must ask for it. If you want the shirt for business or sports wear, you must specify: they are all cut differently.

7. Final thoughts. You ask whether a suit or sports coat. I personally prefer the Neapolitan style - soft, lightly padded, with spalla camicia - for a sports coat or casual suit, not a business suit.

If I were to make this trip, I would get:

one completely unlined, unpadded suit in linen and,
one sports coat, lightly padded made in the de facto spalla camicia style, and
one or two pair of trousers made by the master, Ambrosi, to go with your sports coat and/or linen coat.

Best of luck.