The London Lounge

Dear Members,

Here is the latest edition of the AA / Esky series featuring late Spring / Summer articles for this upcoming summer. This post is divided into four long sections. Take your time and go over this at your own pace as there is a lot of information here.

In this post you will find a detailed article on summer suits & their construction, a most through summer fashion survey from Palm Beach followed up by many colorful illustrations, and finally a rare section on Regatta and its influences. In the first section you will note two silhouette sketches from 30s featuring the proportions as they were observed. I have marked the details on the picture so that members will have a clear idea what is being referred to. Nobody is asking you to copy these 100% for your next bespoke commission. These are just presented as a point of reference as many a times people (even on Savile Row) often forget what these jackets were like back then.

If you have been following this AA / Esky series you will have a bulk of material by now. Those who are interested would be pleased to know that in a little over a year we have covered about 4 Apparel Arts worth of illustrations and almost 2-3 issues worth of articles. All in all, there is 3 AA issues worth of info right here on LL. If you read it well… it will do you much good in your sartorial adventures & maybe even elsewhere too.

So, let us begin with this lengthy post. To start of is the summer suit article from Spring of 35’

Here we go…


SOME ARE FASHIONS

And some are not: the story of summer clothing fashion and the sins that are committed in its name—viewed from the south end of a style trend traveling north

The meteorological condition known as hot weather is one that recurs each year with what might be termed astonishing regularity. This state of affairs has been going on for some centuries now, but it is only within recent years that men have seemed to grasp the fact in any appreciable numbers so far as their apparel is concerned. In the last few years, however, in the North as well as in the South, they have been putting two and two together and getting four--or, in other words, they have been putting hot weather and light weight, porous summer clothing together and getting comfort.

The trend toward light weight summer clothing, gathering momentum each year, is certainly one that contributes as much to the profit of the merchant as it does to the comfort of the consumer. The indications that point to its still greater development are among the most promising signs on the horizon of the men’s apparel industry.

But warm weather comfort is not the only factor in the increasing acceptance of summer clothing. If it were, there would be no need for this article. The intangible fashion element also bulks large in the picture, and that calls for major consideration.

As far as washable summer clothing is concerned, it is only within the past five years or so that it has definitely entered into fashion’s scheme of things on anything that could be called a national scale. Previous to that time it found its natural, and more or less restricted, habitat in the South where its fashion significance was of a minor order. Its popularity in that section of the country was due more to its practicality and comfort-providing characteristics than to any style features that were, or logically could be, advanced in its favor.

A few years ago, however, students at the smart Eastern universities adopted washable summer suits for wear on the campus. They soon attracted the attention of fashion scouts who immediately publicized these garments in double and single breasted models, and forthwith the fashion picture took new outlines. The following summer found this trend on the ascendancy, with social, political and financial leaders setting the pace. After that it was more or less a pushover, and sales increased by leaps and bounds during the succeeding seasons.

With the growing importance of the fashion element as the trend traveled north, a new situation was created. Comfort alone was not enough. Styling and tailoring took on prime significance and many manufacturers rose nobly to the occasion. They devoted as much care to the fabrication and fashion features of summer garments as they did to heavy weight woolen clothing, evolved new methods of construction to enable the light weight garments to retain their shape and generally assisted “in removing a serious impediment to the more extensive acceptance of typical summer suits at the same time that they added a “plus” reason for purchasing.

Once a man has accustomed himself to rich diet it is hard to get him to go back to cruder fare, and the very fact that proper styling and tailoring have become accustomed adjuncts of summer clothing is all the more reason why merchants should not lose sight of these precious assets. To say that a summer suit should be properly fashioned instead of carelessly produced in that respect is to say no more than that it should have a smart and not a sloppy appearance and that it should conform to the fashion standards which the dictates of good taste have established for all classification of apparel.

Nothing could be more fallacious than what’s-the-difference attitude with which summer suits are sometimes bought by the consumer (and what is worse, sold by the merchants) on the premise that their life is short one and therefore the trifling matter of appearance demands no consideration.* The full season provides plenty of opportunity for wear, and aside from that even a single day is too long a period for wearing any style abortion, whether it be a summer suit or some other article of apparel. It is true that some men are sent to a store by a sudden heat wave and demand “something cheap” because they do not expect to get much service out of it; but it is not true that correct fashion in summer suits need be sacrificed on that account. In fact, a wise merchant will tend to eliminate such last-minute purchases through merchandising whose purpose it is to get one or more light weight summer suits into customer’s wardrobe in advance of the extreme heat.

A point worth noting is that regardless of the duration of the summer in your surroundings… if a summer suit is to be commissioned then it must be give as much consideration and thought as a fall suit, if not more. Everything from construction (as we will see below) to design and cut of the suit dictates that a summer suit should actually be given even more care and attention largely due to the fact that genuine summer cloth is harder to tailor and tailoring defects cannot be hide by layers of padding… an option always available for fall suits.

There can be no argument as to the increasingly vital importance of the fashion element in the summer suits. And it is just as obvious that the fashion standards in summer suits are flagrantly violated to an extent which no one who has a stake in the ultimate benefit of the men’s apparel industry can afford to ignore.

That statement detracts nothing from the manufacturers previously credited with placing the fashion standards of the summer suit on a higher level. Their efforts in that respect are worthy of the sincerest praise, and their achievement can be summarized in the fact that five years ago it would have been impossible for a merchant to sell a summer suits with the same degree of confidence that he can feel in its final satisfaction to the wearer today.

But for all the bouquets that may be tossed to the reputable producers, the schlager,* whether he wields his chisel on fashion or quality or both, is still on the scene and his output is decidedly a factor to be reckoned with. The industry can afford to pass up the satisfaction of patting itself on the back for all the progress that has been made in the fabrication of summer suits, although that is pleasant gesture which it has no reason to deny itself. But it can’t afford to wink its eyes at the discolorations and stains which mar the fashion picture for summer clothing. In that direction lays the loss of all the ground that has been gained in the past few years. It is the unconsidered preliminary to the simple act known as killing the goose that laid the golden eggs.

A term they often used to describe the manufacturer of cheap (read low quality) goods & that later marketed its products as a bargain. This was a genuine threat to the good quality manufactures in the 30s because due to the depression the consumers were almost always looking for bargains and thereby falling into what they called the “schlager’s trap”.

The situation that paves the way for the entrance into the filed of so many fashion unconscious producers of summer suits is not a complicated one. To begin with, the opportunity is there. The factor of price makes it possible for unscrupulous manufacturers to produce summer clothing in a manner that highlights its low cost, although necessarily omitting the care in production and its consequent effect upon the appearance which has been such a vital factor in spreading the very popularity upon which they are trading.

It is only natural that a large number of manufacturers of regular weight clothing should have entered the light weight clothing field within recent years. Some of them have been conscientious in their desire to compete for a share of what is evidently a growing demand—but not enough of them. Too many of them, motivated by the mouth-watering sight of an increasing volume of summer clothing business going to established producers, have entered the lists with nothing but price appeal to recommend their wares and justify their existence in the new arena.

It is indeed an unfortunate fact that the price of admission to manufacturers of this type is not a high one. The statement can be made that there is scarcely a single factory producing raincoats, overalls, smoking jackets, office coats or similar loose-fitting articles of apparel which cannot make something that, by a sufficient stretch of the imagination, could be called a summer suit.

If to the outward eye a light weight summer suit does not present any conception of intricate processes of manufacture, then the outward eye is the more deceived. Those manufacturers who base their entrance into the field solely on the fact that they posses the cutting boards and the sewing machines which constitute the equipment of the recognized producers have still a long way to go. It takes no mean equipment in skill and experience to manufacture a well produced summer suit, and assuming that the opportunist cares about anything beyond the immediate sale at a price, his route is an arduous one.

The difficulty of the standard production and consequent encouragement of substandard production, not that encouragement is needed, is perhaps best evidenced in so far as it applies to the matter of fashion and appearance in the products of the inferior manufacturers. And at this point it might be well to examine a few of the basic features with respect to which summer suits most frequently go astray.

As is the case with woolen and worsted clothing, the front construction of a summer suit is the keystone of the entire jacket. Here is the spot at which those venturing into unknown channels in the production of summer clothing are most likely to founder. Experience has taught reputable producers the importance of this feature, nor can there be any compromise with the practices of standard manufacturers. If the garment does not incorporate the proper front construction, there can be little hope for either its appearance or serviceability.

The collar, an important point in the construction of any suit, is another feature that calls for studious care. Differing but slightly in production of summer suits from the method used for fine clothing of heavier weight, it must be scrupulously fabricated so that it will not pull away from the neck and take on the appearance of what is colloquially known as a “horse collar.” Furthermore, it must retain perfect fit throughout the rigorous treatment to which it may be subjected in laundries or dry cleaning establishments.

Collar construction difference

In this picture above is a contrast between a good collar construction and poor collar construction in summer suits. The example at the right indicates how the collar of a carelessly tailored suit works away from the neck after washing. It is a typical illustration of the manner in which the material droops down over the shoulders causing an unsightly effect at the top.

Next in importance, and contributing a great deal to smart appearance, are the sleeveheads.* Carelessly produced summer clothing shows up especially readily at this point. When improperly constructed, the joint of the sleeve and shoulder can result in an appearance of general sloppiness that insures positive dissatisfaction to the wearer. Because it is desirable that no extra weight be used in the shoulder construction in the form of padding, which would likewise not be practical if the garment is to be washed, still greater care and skill is required in the execution of this particular operation.

*This cannot be stressed enough. The construction of sleeveheads is always a topic open for debate and much more so in the summer suits. In the pre WWII days it was not uncommon for Savile row tailors to make beautiful summer suits. A large part in that practice was due to the fact that numerous British officers of the empire were stationed around the tropics and thereby regularly commissioned such articles, keeping the cutter and tailors constantly in practice of making genuine summer suits. This is no longer the case and these days Savile Row tailors are average (at best) with summer cloth. Italian tailors, especially Southern Italians are a whole different matter.

The sleeve head of a summer suit used to contain a heavy shoulder pleating effect and this was done primarily for the comfort. A large piece of cloth was fed through the “Scye” and this practice was quite common with US and British tailors (though probably to a lesser extent than Italians). Numerous pictures from the 20s and 30s show these pleated shoulders on jackets made by both US and Savile Row tailors.

Now, there is a fine line between the pleating effect of the shoulder, which actually is not a defect even though it may appear and an actual bad tailored sleeve head. In the case of summer suits it gets even harder for the untrained eye to distinguish between these two. A summer suit is indeed supposed to be somewhat wrinkled in appearance and should have an air of nonchalance but at NO point should bad tailoring be permitted to pass on as “wrinkled” or “crumpled” looking suit.

Observe the picture of sleeve head through the link below.

Shoulder construction difference

Note on the left is a pleated shoulder with its deep vertical pleats originating from the shoulder joint. On the right you have an example of a poorly constructed sleeve head and should be distinguished from the correct tailoring.

To read this topic of “pleating in sleeveheads” in detail view Manton’s great article on Neapolitan Shoulders below.

The Neapolitan Shoulder

Another thing that is totally debatable is the topic of padding in summer suits and how much of it (if any) should be used. There are strong points on each side, however, a summer suit must be extremely light in padding and inter linings if it is indeed to convey the coolness and lightness of a summer suit. Too much padding in a summer suit would be downright morbid and would “kill” its aesthetical (as well as any pragmatic) value that it may have. It should be borne in mind that the fabric of a summer suit must always be heavier than the linings (just as in the case of fall suitings) and the weave should be of utmost concern NOT necessarily the weight. Heavy but porous Irish Linen fabrics are well-renowned for their ventilating qualities, plus they tailor better than some other summer fabrics.

While we are here mainly concerned with the fashion aspect of summer suits and the damage dealt the summer clothing market by the tide of garments which fall below the fashion standard, the subject of quality construction cannot well be overlooked. Quality and smart appearance as represented by good fashion go hand in hand, and it is very seldom that a fly-by-night producer sacrifices the one without also sacrificing the other. This applies with particular emphasis to washable summer suits.

Although it might seem a fundamental thing to enquire into the basic elements that enter into the construction of a washable summer suit, after all it is essentially the fundamentals that are most frequently involved in the cheapening of the garment both as to quality and fashion. It should be borne in mind, therefore, that a washable summer suit should be constructed of materials that are light in weight and easy to launder and that, given the ability and the desire on the part of the manufacturer to impart the attributes of proper tailoring to the garment, the materials must be of such nature as to permit good tailoring.

One of the most important points in construction is that which relates to shrinkage. In the earlier days of summer clothing, manufacturers soon realized that this was one of their most important problems and took steps to solve it, one of the most important contributions being the perfection of the Sanforizing process. But adequate provision in this respect is by no means so widespread that the bugaboo of shirking is not liable to plague the wearer if the merchant has not taken the proper precautions to insure that the garments he handles have been thoroughly pre-shrunk. Needless to say, once the proper degree of tailoring has been built into a wash suit, it is equally important that the garment possesses the ability to maintain its fashion correctness throughout many launderings. It doesn’t take much shrinkage to throw a garment out of line and completely lose all its original pretensions to style.

Linen piece goods used in the manufacture of summer suits should be thoroughly shrunk, nor is a mere steaming or wetting process sufficient to achieve the desired effect. It is vitally necessary for the manufacturer who receives linen piece goods to take out its stretch by means of thorough shrinking operations.

Cotton fiber reacts to moisture in a somewhat different manner from linen, and in the weaving of cotton piece goods mercerization is not necessary. The final operation that the goods receive in a cotton mill, however, is a wetting process, and as a result the goods acquire a certain amount of stretch in drying. It is just as vital with cotton goods, therefore, that this stretch be taken out before manufacturing as it is in the case of linen goods.

It is of considerable importance that wash suits be constructed with the thought in mind that they arc going to be subjected to frequent launderings by the average wearer. As compared to a worsted suit worn in warm climates, a wash snit must be refreshed perhaps ten times as often. The type of treatment employed in refreshing these snits is anything but gentle. The suits are usually placed in tumblers at the laundries where all shape, all previous creases and all body lines of the jacket are practically eliminated.

Certain parts of every garment must undergo unusual strain during this washing process and the consequent operation of pressing, with the result that it is not only necessary for the manufacturer to shrink his goods in such a way that they will not be subjected to further shrinkage at the laundry but the garment must be so constructed that the treatment it receives in laundering cannot destroy its fundamental style. Each part of the garment must be so shaped in designing that any laundry employee who possess a minimum knowledge of pressing machines can, with a little care, restore the original shape.

Getting back to the details of quality construction which affect the style of summer suits, it will be seen that the appearance of a garment on a man after months of wear must receive as deep consideration as its appearance when he first tries it on in the store. In the interlining, commonly known as a coat front or coat canvas, lies an especially important part of the real foundation of the jacket. Here the anatomy of the human body must be carefully studied in designing the various sections which go to make up the whole.

Rows of stitching are employed in this portion of the garment to retain the shape of the jacket and facilitate the restoration of the body lines at the laundry. It is just as important that the interlining be thoroughly shrunk as it is that the main goods used in the garment be adequately treated in this respect. No manufacturer can produce a satisfactory wash suit without giving the proper degree of consideration to the interlining.

Contrast between construction

The difference between good tailoring in summer and the lack of it is the difference between the garment at the left and the garment at the right. There is no exaggeration in this drawing—it would be almost impossible to exaggerate the effect of faulty tailoring on the entire front construction of a summer suit.

The collar, mentioned previously with regard to its effect upon the style of the jacket. Is another vital point from the standpoint of construction. For the collar, an interlining or collar canvas is used. It is not merely cut on the bias but woven on the bias, and it is in the manufacture of the under collar, where the shaping, stitching and building up must take place, that the greatest number of rows of padding or blind stitching work occurs.

Experience in the felling of the under collar of the jacket has taught standard manufacturers that it must be securely stitched in such a way that numerous trips to the laundry will not destroy the collar’s fit and shape. Special precautions are taken in this operation on the premise that a wash suit is primarily a tub suit and not a garment to be dry cleaned, since dry cleaning does not remove odors and perspiration stains.

In as much as the purpose of the bridle is to take care of the break of the collar at the neck in order to retain a snug fit at that point, it is another factor in quality construction which definitely affects the appearance of the finished garment. Particular care is therefore taken by standard producers in the operation where the bridle is attached to the under collar, crosses the collar seam and extends down part of the way at the edge of the lapel lining and padding.

The re-enforcement of the lapel, with its numerous rows of padding or blind stitching work, serves the same purpose as the undercollar, namely, enabling the portion of the garment to which it is applied to retain its shape. Here again is an operation that can be either carefully performed or slighted, with commensurate effect upon the appearance of the finished garment.

Another vital operation’ in the construction of the jacket is that of edge taping, performed while attaching the facing to the front. Edge taping is essential in providing and maintaining the proper shape along the edge of the jacket. An operation which has a similar purpose for the portion of the garment to which it is applied is that of attaching a strip of bias cloth around the armholes.

In general, it can be seen that the manufacture of a satisfactory wash suit entails as much care and skill as the manufacture of the finest woolens. At almost every point in its construction thought must be given to the important factor of the suit’s ability to withstand the strain of many trips to the laundry, and still further it is absolutely essential that the material which goes ‘into the suit be thoroughly pre-shrunk.

Aside from comfort—which is important but not all important—what the dealer has to offer the consumer in summer suits is correct fashion and good tailoring based on quality construction. True enough, the fashion standard of summer suits has been raised to a high level but it is not so high that it cannot be over-reached by the fashion schlager and it is not so broad that it bars the path to his substandard merchandise.

The infinite value to a merchant of a policy that maintains the highest fashion standards in summer suits needs no comment. Even the by-products of such a policy, aside from the major consideration of ultimate satisfaction to the customer, are not inconsiderable. Take, for instance, the factor of alterations, which can cut, considerably into the profit margin by reason of the comparatively low unit price of summer suits. When a merchant purchases well tailored, conscientiously produced merchandise, he also buys insurance against expensive and unnecessary alterations.

But there is more to a sound summer suit business than merely purchasing the right merchandise for it. The promotional aspect is likewise important, and more vital from the fashion standpoint is the question of selling the proper apparel for :he occasion. A summer suit can be perfectly styled for resort wear, but if the retailer sells it for town wear, then the fashion sin is on his head. It should therefore be borne in mind that single and lobule breasted suits in regulation models, with plain or vented backs, are most appropriate for business, while the more sporty models, such as belted backs with patch pockets and similar details, are to be restricted to resort and country wear.

On correct proportions of lounge Jackets from 30s

Now before we proceed into the section II of this article with summer styles let me preset something that actually has been long due; the correct proportions in lounge jackets as observed during the 30s.

There is a lot of misinformation out there and many people while discussing the silhouettes from 30s they generally tend to remember exaggerations rather than the classic articles. A lot of these exaggerations come from what AA editors called the “jazz fashions” and the rest came from the poor understanding of manufactures, who… when designing something, always seemed to be bent on going a “step ahead”.

I am presenting two jacket silhouettes model with illustrations from AA directly. These are of SB and DB peak lapel jackets. I have purposely chosen the peak lapelled ones because it is in here where most of the fundamental errors observed today.

I have labeled the pictures directly because it will help a lot of new members who are not quite sure what term is referring to what on the jacket. After observing the pictures, read the numbered descriptions for more info.

Remember this is a brief description of these jackets. It is an extremely broad topic in itself; the London Lounge style or the English Drape. We will address these in detail some other time.

Single Breasted Peak Lapel Drape Jacket

This is from winter 35-36 season



Alright here you have the classic SB peak lapel, natural shoulder, drape jacket from mid 30s as correctly sketched.

This SB peak lapel jacket is most flattering to many different shapes of men from tall to short and thin to stout. There are few differences when this jacket is worn a tall person, as opposed to worn by a short person but the fundamentals are almost the same.

All of these elements presented below are linked together to form a composite whole…& that is essential to the entire look of British or English Drape cut. You simply cannot take one piece and substitute elsewhere. Doing so may result in a caricature rather than a well turned out ensemble.

1) Natural Shoulders: A hallmark of drape lounge jackets from 30s, this one here is also no exception. There is a slight hint of rope at the sleeve head, which often is the result of “wadding” at the joint. Read the above mentioned “Neapolitan Shoulder” thread for extensive detail on this topic.

2) Gorge Height: A critical factor determining the overall design and aesthetics of the jacket. This here is the correct Gorge position from 30s. The overall Gorge height tends to be in between. Neither to low nor too high. The extremely high gorge like the one seen today with certain Italian manufacturers are most definitely not from Savile Row of 30s. Taller gents can wear jackets with medium to even lower Gorge position, however, for all others usually high Gorge is advisable as a higher position elongates the lines vertically.

3) Lapel Width: The single most (obvious) defining mark of a jacket from 30s West End, London is the width & shape of the lapel. Note here that the peak lapels are of ample width and cover At least 3/4th of the chest. Jackets with Lapels that cover ½ or 5/8th of the chest, again are not from 1930s. See No. 5 for further detail on Lapels. However, remember one essential thing… the peak lapel of a SB jacket is NOT the same thing as that of a DB even though they may seem similar. These are two very different animals. The effect on an SB jacket should be more restrained than on a DB jacket both in shape and extent of severity. Db jacket as we will see below can handle a more “severe” peak lapel because of its construction.

4) Drape: As the name suggests… the fullness in chest as marked by the red arrow indicates the Drape. Not all jackets from that era have to have Drape but it was indeed observed on many of them. This fullness is also added at the back. A variation of this is the British Blade model which was imported to US from Savile Row some time mid 30s. The hall mark of British Blade jacket are a much “clean” (without much fullness) chest but added fullness across the shoulder blade area (at the back). This drape effect goes in direct relation with the texture and weight of the cloth. All of this was done primarily to replicate the look of English guardsmen with broad shoulders, swelled chest, nipped waist with fullness in front and back.

5) Lapel Angle: This goes hand in hand with No. 3. (lapel width). Here note the shape or line of the lapel. This lapel is neither perfectly straight nor completely rounded. It is what can be called a “dimensional lapel” as it has multiple angles. The lapel upon reaching the top sort of curves inward to give a thoroughly pleasing sight. The classic observation (as I have stated before) is that tall men can have more roundness in lapels than short men. More straight lapels are advisable for stout men. Always keep in mind that this lapel width and shape went with the broad but natural shoulder silhouette. The overall emphasis was much more on a “Y” than a “8”. In other words, a hallmark characteristic of jackets from 1930s is the broad shoulders to accommodate the newly found (back then) enormous interest in sports and athletics and hence the resulting body shapes. During the 1920s the over all silhouette was much more straight, i.e. same width across shoulder and hips. Note that the angle of peak of the lapel is of medium angle neither to high (vertical) nor perfectly horizontal… observed in 1920s.

6) Waist: There is waist suppression but not so severe as to suggest an hourglass type effect. The jackets had a fitted waist… certainly much more (proportionally) than the chest. You may change the button stance for alternating results if you like but changing the center button position will directly effect the shape of the lapel.

7) Sleeve tapering: Much more important than “working buttonholes” or “positioning of sleeve buttons” is the proper tapering in the sleeves. This gives the jacket a very bespoke feeling and must be looked for when commissioning a bespoke one. Higher armholes are even more essential than sleeve tapering. The primary reason of this sleeve tapering was to give the effect of a more muscular arm with circumference much larger at the biceps area than at the cuff. All of this is in direct relation with broad shoulders, swelled chest, raised waist line, and tapered skirt.

8. Cutaway Effect: The front “quarters” of the jacket are in a cutaway effect, leaving a considerable gap in between. This is vital for men of shorter height as this effect is known to be vertically elongating as well as giving the jacket a very unique look.

Now let us look at a DB jacket. This one is from Spring of 37’



1) Lapel Shape: Directly in relation to the broad but natural shoulders of the jacket are the peak lapels. Note their width here to see that they are slightly wider than the SB version and that is how they are suppose to be. The “angle” of the lapels is also a bit more extreme than their SB counterpart. The classic proportions in these drape jackets reveal lapels that cover at least 3/4th of the chest.

2) Drape: There is Drape effect in the chest & also at the back across the blades. Some argue that a DB jacket can portray the drape effect more prominently than an SB jacket and as such can have more fullness. Also the drape effect because of its military inspirations and roots not only created a fuller but also a higher chest.

3) Gorge & lapel placement: More or less the same as SB jacket. Here also you can raise the gorge if such is your linking.

4) Button placement: This is 4 button DB with lapel rolled to the bottom button. You can have DB jackets in various other button configurations also. The top buttons are much higher than the waistline and thereby increasing the gap between the top and bottom rows.

5)Fitting at the bottom buttons & waistline: The jacket has a natural waist suppression which is not too extreme. Again, the fitting across the waist is closer than that of the chest. The bottom buttons have been raised in height. You can raise the pockets also to add a smooth expanse of cloth which visually creates an illusion of height.

6) The cut of the jacket is such that it tapers in (convex) as it reaches the bottom. There is no flare at the skirt. This concept was explained in the last post with an illustration. See AA / Esky Vol. II No. III (Section I Fabrics for Fall).

7)Sleeve tapering: The sleeves are tapered in, just like their SB counterpart.

8)The “V” or the “Y” effect: Note that the shoulder in comparison to the hips are broader and create a “V” or more accurately like a “y” like silhouette. This effect however, should be completely (or almost) natural under all circumstances and must Never be exaggerated as it happened in the 1940s. In other words… you should be of a certain body shape (or in close proximity) to naturally wear it without much effort. However, minimal addition of this effect is certainly advisable and looks quite well if done properly. The less padding used to create this effect the better it will be…. Now, unfortunately there is no way to do this with absolutely no padding… that is, if the person wearing it is not even proximally close to what the cut is trying to suggest.

In other words… kindly take care of your physique, that is equally if not more important.

Note that this is put much more mildly in accordance with audience of today. AA / Esky editors were extremely harsh on stout and portly types and as such said the following

… the following are the jacket types for the angular. In fact, only the angular can get away with them. The obese, for their own good, will abhor them as nature abhors a vacuum…

Well… as interesting as this topic is we must leave it here for the time being and proceed on with out summer post.

END OF SECTION I OF THIS POST

START OF SECTION II OF THIS POST

Below is an exhaustive account of summer / resort wear articles from summer of 34’. This is the only time a fashion survey will be presented this summer. This one pretty much covers all the basic items of interest.


FASHIONS FOR SUMMER

reporting, by word and by illustration, the status of the major fashions of the season

In all the wide vocabulary of fashion, the word constancy never once appears. And one may aptly, if abruptly, demonstrate that point by taking polo shirt for an example. It was introduced into this country in the spring of 1928. By the end of the summer, all the icemen and truck drivers were wearing it and it passed out of the fashion picture so definitely that it seemed gone for good. But during the summer of 1930 smart continentals at Biarritz, Cannes, Juan les Pins and other spas took to this shirt in fine knitted yarns, and by the summer of 1932, it was brought back to America by the society fashion leaders to such effect that it has been climbing ever since.

Does a merchant, in the garish light of such instances as the above, have to be careful about his fashions? Must he be just as wary about being ahead of the parade as behind it? You know the answer. And the polo shirt is the only one example among the many that might be cited attesting to the variability of fashions and necessity for having as exact a knowledge as possible of their current status.

On the pages of this article, then, pass in review the various fashions for summer, with as precise a rating of their general importance and promotional possibilities as is enabled by a methodical and exhaustive survey…

These last two paragraphs are directed to the retail men’s apparel industry of 30s.

The Brown Buckskin Shoes

A fashion of conspicuous importance, the history of the brown buckskin shoe dates back to the last visit of the Prince of Wales to America. This shoe has been talked about by style scouts and fashions writers ever since then, and they have justly predicted its coming popularity. At first, and for a long time, there was a question as to the correct model; then, the issue arose as to weather or not it should be worn in, town or kept solely for country wear. For a while, too, the fashion itself side-stepped its true course and was accepted by the chorus-boy and his colleagues, immediately losing its identification and turning up in grey, black yellow and even green.

The society sportsmen who in this country are responsible for more male fashions than can be detailed in an edition, have always worn brown buckskins since their inception here, and each season has seen them slowly gain ground acceptance. Winter reports indicated that the brown buckskin shoe, in its two most popular models, was the high spot of fashion for that season. While there were more shoes of other types, there were more brown buckskins than had ever been seen before. And during the past spring, it was not at all startling to see young men walking down Fifth Avenue wearing brown buckskin shoes.

The models accepted vary for the occasion. For country and general rough wear, there is the blucher front, without toe-cap and with vary heavy crepe sole and heel, which is almost varnished black. Other favored models include the wing and monk front, but all carry the same sole and heel. For town, the favorite model is blucher front with straight toe-cap and leather soles and heels, varnished black, while the wingtip model is also seen. The Long Island horsey set have taken a brown buck shoe that is ankle high and cut similarly to a blucher riding shoe.

The brown buck skin shoe is not merely here to stay but is destined to grow into popularity. It should be sold to men of all ages as a smart, and highly desirable fashion.

The White Dinner Jacket

The white dinner jacket is essentially a fashion that has grown out of another fashion. The first radical change in evening dress appeared some four years ago with the introduction of the white mess jacket,* which received immediate acceptance nationally, culminating in the point where it was taken up by bell-hops, orchestra members and others. But at least a tradition was broken and men had gone on record as accepting a departure in their summer formal kits.

*This is an item that is best left alone. I highly suggest against the use of mess jacket in any instance, especially these days. Leave your tropical cravings in the realm of proper off-white dinner jacket and you will be well-off.

Then, during the summer of 1932, reports came from both Southampton and Newport of another innovation—the white, single breasted, shawl collar dinner jacket. This at once had a definite appeal to men of all ages, as many of them could not wear the popular mess jacket. With its inception at Southampton and Newport, the white dinner jacket came in for careful observation. By the winter of 1933, at Palm Beach and other Southern colonies, the white linen, single breasted, shawl collar dinner jacket had gained an amazing acceptance. Again at Palm Beach last winter, the white linen dinner jacket, in both single and double breasted models, was an outstanding note in formal evening clothes.

This fashion, incidentally, is a natural for men who plan vacations during the summer or are contemplating trips that will take them to warm climates, and it should be talked about, promoted and sold to them. But the implications of the white dinner jacket go much further than that.

For years past, country clubs, during the summer months, have always held Saturday night dances at which women paid attendance in cool and colorful evening dresses. It was the fate of the men, however, to suffer through those sweltering evenings wearing double breasted flannel or single breasted tweed jacket, white flannel trousers and heavy sports shoes. But times have changed, and it is no longer smart to be uncomfortable-- if it ever was.* between that and the emphasis on the importance of dressing for the occasion lent by increased leisure, this new light weight, comfortable evening kit has everything in its favor.

*It is both amusing and strange how far this statement can be (& have been) stretched… especially in past seven decades.

The white dinner jacket, to begin with may be easily fitted to most men. And while regular dress trousers in black or midnight blue may be worn, they can also be of a tropical fabric. Patent leather shoes or pumps, too are much more comfortable than the usual heavy sport shoe. The shirt may be any plain white shirt* with a collar attached or separate, and everyone will agree that a black dress tie is cooler than a four-in-hand of any type.

*It is highly unlikely that you will find yourself owning a white dinner jacket by a default. So if you are spending that much in acquiring a specialized item, kindly make sure you wear it properly and not merely as just another jacket. As such, try the classic Marcella evening shirt with a turn-down collar attached.

The Navy Blue Polo Shirt

In a fashion survey of Palm Beach during the winter of 1933, it was observed that the most significant note at Palm Beach was the solid color, half sleeve, light weight wool polo jersey in navy blue, in a pullover style with shirt collar and two buttoned opening at the neck.* These were worn for tennis, golf, fishing, bicycling, to and from beach, as well as about the home and market, and were very often with slacks and odd jackets. Following up that excellent start, the navy blue polo shirt reached a point of popularity last winter almost to the extent of making it seem a uniform. Worn outside the trousers in almost a nonchalant manner,** this shirt was practically all one saw during the day. It is worn open at the neck and with a silk handkerchief, loosely knotted. It is fashions like this which, when first seen on those men recognized as style leaders, become popular. Last summer at Newport, Southampton and other exclusive summer colonies, the navy blue polo shirt pervaded the fashion picture, until today, it is definitely on the road to national popularity

*See below for an illustration of this blue polo shirt worn at summer resorts.

**This “nonchalance”, which seemed like a novel idea in 30s, is hardly anything new these days and has been overdone to the point where it has lost almost everything unique it was originally supposed to convey. However, these casual ensembles should certainly be “sporty” with a comfortable air about them but they still should retain a strong foothold in the stylish realm (that is if they are to be understood these days, as being stylish at all).

Gabardine Suits

At Palm beach in 1933, the interest carried over from the preceding year in Havana brown and white gabardine found expression in the greatly increased acceptance and importance of this fabric. It became definitely established, with the addition of a deep shade of green, but with emphasis, from point of view of broad acceptance, on the light tan or cream shade. The suits were worn in both single and double breasted models, the single breasted models carrying many belted backs.*

*An illustration was also presented in summer series of last year.

Last summer this fabric gained further acceptance among business men of all types and found particular favor with members of New York Stock Exchange. At such fashion centers as Newport, Bar Harbor, Southampton, The Atlantic Beach Club, and at the Yale-Harvard Regatta at New London, Connecticut, gabardine was the one predominating note. It was seen in whole suits, in odd jackets and in slacks worn with odd jackets of other fabrics.

Last winter at Palm Beach, the outstanding point of interest in clothing was provided by double breasted gabardine suits, in natural tan, coca brown, and grey-green. These suits had very definite characteristics, the majority having three buttons, all of which could be buttoned. Almost every suit carried a cash pocket and a center vent, while collar, lapels, and flaps of pockets, as well as the front of the coat, carried welt seams. Many single breasted notched lapel, natural color gabardine jackets were favored by younger men. These jackets had patch pockets, center or side vents, and welt seams throughout.

Gabardine clothing has been in the fashion picture for many years, but it is only recently that men have learned to appreciate this comfortable light weight summer garment which tailors so perfectly and wears so well. Their merits recognized, gabardine suits are an established vogue.

Shirtless Bathing

Shirtless bathing, current in Europe for many years, has long provided Americans visiting foreign shores with something to envy in the way men might be attired at the beach. But it was not until the summer of 1932 that men at private beach clubs really started to adopt the European custom of swimming shirtless. This did not prevent shirtless swimmers from being rebuked at public beaches, and whether or not the time will ever come when men will be allowed to bathe minus their swimming shirts, it would be difficult to conjecture. But at private clubs the practice is established to stay. Last winter at Palm Beach was the first season, that men swam without tops, and though the beach is not public, it is open to all who care to pay for privileges.

At first thought, shirtless swimming implies a lost sale. But it really offers a chance to sell a polo shirt or a robe that could not be sold before—and not only that, but men will pay more money for well tailored swimming trunk. Men want to swim shirtless, and, barring serious interference on the part of Mrs. Grundy, the custom at least has a chance of general acceptance here, as abroad.

Fawn Colored Trousers

An especially interesting feature in summer apparel is a new color combination consisting of fawn colored flannel trousers and, usually a double breasted grey flannel jacket.* The trousers, of particular importance, were seen often with different types of jackets but were, of course, most noticeable with grey jackets. Many men wore them with navy blue polo shirt and brown buckskin shoes.

*I highly encourage the use of these fawn colored flannel trousers, especially with earthly tones of tan and browns. If you use them, you will find that these suit to brown odd jackets much better than the grey flannels and are certainly not that common either. This combination of grey flannel jacket and fawn trousers was also presented in last year’s summer series. See those posts for further detail and illustrations.

These trousers were almost as popular as the current grey flannel slacks and were worn by men whose dress decidedly influences the American male population. The color, incidentally, must not be confused with shades referred to as bisque, ecru, beige or biscuit. These are a definite fawn color and have a grey cast to them. One of their characteristics, and as a matter of fact a feature of the majority of flannel trousers, is the point that the material at the seam is usually a lap seam. This means that the material at the seam is overlapped about one quarter of an inch and is not stitched down. All of the rousers seen were pleated and tapered gracefully to the ankle. Very often belts were worn with the trousers and these, by th way, are favored in pigskin about one inch and a quarter in width. In place of a buckle, they carry two metal rings.

Fawn colored trousers should be merchandised by those stores that cater to men of discriminating tastes—those who are always looking for new and different without any suggestion of the ostentatious.*

*A critical difference between the usage word of the word “dandy”, then and now.

India Madras Neckwear

Neckwear of India Madras has attained equal popularity in the four in hand and in the straight bat bow tie. A popular shape in the four in hand India madras tie is the old French shape, which is short and very narrow tie. Its actual width is about one inch and a half. The bat bow-tie is popular in two shapes: the straight end bat and the pointed end bat, of medium length and width. A year ago last spring, these ties made their fist appearance on campus at Princeton and received the immediate acceptance of the undergraduates. Last summer saw the India Madras ties at Newport, Southampton, and Bar Harbor, while those men who are looked to as fashion leaders showed their pronounced approval of this type of neckwear last winter at Palm Beach and other smart southern resorts. Based on these various observations, the India madras tie, either the bat or four in hand, cannot help being a sure fashion hit for the coming summer months. Incidentally, last January the women’s wear industry promoted India madras for women’s beach shirts and shorts with striking success.

Summer Neckwear

The outstanding tie for summer, both for town and country, is almost certainly the bow-tie in the pointed end or straight end bat shape. This tie will undoubtedly be seen in regimental striped reps, dark ground foulards and the increasingly popular India madras. Bow ties have been out of the fashion picture for several years, and it is only within the past year that they have received a definite impetus to again put them in the foreground. They have this time the authenticity that derives from first being seen on the campuses of both Yale and Princeton. Last summer witnessed their renaissance at smart country clubs, as well as exclusive beach clubs in the East, and last winter at Palm Beach they even surpassed their popularity of the preceding summer. That they will gain ever further favor is a safe assumption.

Four-in-hand ties for warm weather seem to undergo a transition every five years. It is to be remembered that about five years ago the white Shantung necktie came in, having first been seen at Spring Maytime house parties at Princeton. This changed the entire direction of summer neckwear to white grounds, a trend which remained in vogue since then. Observations at Palm beach last winter indicated that the most conspicuous thing about the white ground foulard necktie was its absence from fashion picture. The new note in neckwear for summer is that provided by dark grounds, such as black, navy blue, deep wine, bottle green and a madder brown. Ties of this character, with deep grounds, figures or spots in bright contrasting colors. This trend toward dark grounds is important news, and should be watched very carefully this summer.

Striped rep ties have been talked up from a fashion standpoint for many years, although not a few retailers have gone in the red on this item for lack of skill in its proper merchandising. Probably nine of their show cases displayed small figured neckwear, with few dozen striped rep ties in a tenth case. Naturally, a customer seeing so many of the other ties would prefer to follow the majority rule. This summer those retailers who cater to men of discriminating tastes should stock well with striped rep neckwear. These ties are seen on the smartest men at every sporting event of importance, and last season at Palm Beach were more popular than ever before. The newest note about striped rep ties is the fact that now they are being worn in broader stripes, approximately two inches in width, and are usually in three different colors, with one of the colors generally being a yellow or gold.

Cotton Neckwear

Last summer witnessed the introduction of printed cotton neckwear in foulard patterns, marked by a tremendous success with men of all types for both town and country wear. Their popularity was furthered last winter at Palm Beach, and it is virtually certain to continue this summer.

Two seasons ago polka dot ties in unusual colorings received some mention. They are here now, and on quite definite terms, having been seen in the country as well as in town this past spring, on light grounds with contrasting dark spots and on dark grounds with contrasting light spots. Polka dots have always been favored and well liked by all men, affording ample reason for putting them in your stock. They are fashion correct as well as salable.

Odd Jackets

There is no particular reason why what was originally called a sport jacket should now be termed an “odd jacket.” Unless it be the fact that during the past few years there has been a trend toward oddness in country attire—that is, with the jacket, weskit, and the trousers all of different colors and different fabrics. Of course, under the name of odd jacket, the garment has a wider scope, inasmuch as the sport jacket usually meant a single breasted jacket of tweed, linen, gabardine or some sporty material. As an odd jacket, it refers to any jacket at all worn with trousers that do not match. This means that the jacket may be either double or single breasted, of flannel, Saxony, Shetland, tweed, crash linen, gabardine or whatnot. The single breasted notch lapel jacket, which carried a by-swing belted back with a center vent and which has always been universal as a sport jacket, is definitely on the way out. Not without reason, either, for during the past several seasons there has been a pronounced preference for bold plaids and checks in unusual colors, with the result that the addition of belts, pleats, and other gingerbread became almost obnoxious.

Today we find that the smart sport jacket that is worn during the summer months, as well as other times of the year, has reduced itself to a three button notch lapel jacket. This coat has natural shoulders, and is rather long, carrying either a single center vent or side vents.* The pockets of the jacket vary. Some of them are patch pockets, others are military bellows pockets that expand, and again there is the regular pocket, with a flap and very often the addition of a cash or ticket pocket.

*See Vol. II No. I “University Styles” post for a detailed discussion of these odd jackets.

While the jackets are usually of fine hand loomed Shetland or Harris Tweed, the lightweight cheviot jacket and linen jacket have found favor for warmer climates with those whom fashion follows. During the summer months, one finds fewer examples of this type of jacket, since it is really more suitable for spring and fall, and in summer those men in country who are responsible for setting fashions favor jackets taken from regular summer clothing. The result is that we find the flannel and gabardine jacket, either double or single breasted, usually worn with contrasting trousers. This past winter at Palm Beach there was a definite presence for the double breasted jacket, and that preference will most likely continue throughout summer.

The jackets were seen in a double breasted grey or tan flannel, either plain, with a white chalk stripe, or a contrasting color over plaid. They were also seen in gabardine in the natural tan shade, the coca brown shade, and a new grey-green shade. One of the outstanding details of the double breasted coat favored at Palm Beach last winter was the fact that three buttons of the double breasted jackets were placed in a straight line so that three of them might be buttoned, if desired.* Another point was that the collar, lapels, front of jacket and flaps on the pockets carried a wide welt seam. Invariably, the jacket carried either single or side vents. This model is also true of the lighter weight fabrics, such as linens, Shantung and crash, except for the fact that the welt seam was missing.

*Another common model was the one where 3 buttons where placed in an almost rectangular (but not perfect) shape. The upper 2 buttons were very slightly apart (horizontally) from the bottom four.

Shirts

Shirts for warm weather wear—as far as fashion is concerned—depend largely upon the age of the individual. With the members of the younger set, one finds that during the past several seasons they have accepted the light weight oxford shirts in solid colors with a button down collar that is attached. The negligee appearance of the shirt immediately strikes one as being on the comfortable side. It is, however, a shirt that can only be worn smartly by younger men. This same group favor a round collar attached shirt, worn with a gold safety pin, and seen in oxford, broadcloth and madras, solid color and stripes. Others favor a medium pointed collar, worn with a heavy gold pin that, when fastened, has a high effect. This is the shirt favored by majority of men, and one to be worn be men of all ages. It is seen in bold colored stripes and small neat check effects and is probably most popular in broadcloth.

The tab collar is till worn by many men and is ideal shirt for business wear during the warmer months because of its neat appearance and comfort. It is also seen in bold stripes and checks. The pleated bosom shirt, which was so popular this past winter and spring will probably attain equal popularity throughout the summer for business wear by men who prefer to wear starched collars the years round. And it might be added here that during the past two years more white starched collars have been seen at smart resorts then ever before. They are neat looking, and have proved themselves to be cooler than soft collars. In addition, they can be worn with sports clothes of a more dressy nature and are ideally suited for business during the warmer months, being particularly smart when worn with a bow tie.

Last winter at Palm Beach, for the first time in many years, silk shirts were observed in a variety of colors. They were worn with white soft collars and looked very smart. No one can predict their immediate return, but for the man who wants something new and can afford it there are few better recommendations than the silk shirt in solid colors. Natural linen shirts made an appearance last year and met with immediate success.* They should continue to gain in popularity this summer. These are seen in the medium pointed collar attached, the round collar attached, and tab collar attached styles.

*A much better choice than silk shirts altogether. Try this linen shirt in the natural shade with summer jackets and suits.

The outstanding colors in shirts, both for town and country, is still blue. Deep tones are unquestionably the newest and the smartest innovation in years, and this color note will mean much to the general appearance of the different ensembles worn by men. There are, of course, a great many unusual colors seen in shirts that are very smart when worn with the right type of clothing and neckwear, but men who lack a sense of colors should avoid these unusual hues in shirts.* After blue, the color run in popularity as follows; white, grey, tan, and ox-blood.

*Ah! This is the thing here… for men who “lack a sense of colors”…generally speaking this would probably imply 90% of men today and they would be happy to accept it and thereby hide behind the good ol’ whites and blues. This should NOT the sole reasoning for never even trying something different in shirts. Usually, if you are unsure… in a new color always try lighter shades first before going to the darker ones. The darker you go in shirts the more you reduce your range of neckwear that can be properly matched with shirts.

Moreover, not that in addition to their prescribed list of colors you may add, lavender, pink, yellow and green. Remember that ox-blood is one heck of a unique color… used right, it can create some stunning combination with blue and dark grey suits.

There has also been, during the past year, sudden vogue for yellow shirts, which are very smart when worn correctly; but here again one must be careful of the color of the suit and tie. Last year, shirts of pongee were observed and still more were noted at Palm Beach this year, many with white starched collars and some with pleated bosoms. This shirt should be watched—it has lively possibilities of returning to the favor it once enjoyed.

Shoes

Still the outstanding item of footwear for country and resort wear during the warm months is the plain white buckskin shoe, unlined and without toe cap. This shoe usually carries a red rubber sole and heel which is varnished black. Society leaders at Newport, Southampton, Bar Harbor and other exclusive resorts use a polish on these shoes which, after drying and rubbing with a soft cloth, gives the buckskin a high shine. The shoes, when shined with this white liquid and polished so that they really glisten, look very smart and are worn by those people who have the money and time to dress in meticulous taste.* The brown buckskin shoe and its various models has been discussed earlier, but its importance cannot be over-emphasized. Its popularity for summer is unquestionable.

*If you want to be in “meticulous” taste these days then completely forget this idea of shining white shoes. Remember, this was explained for 30s…far from the era of corfam shoes and such. Today, white buckskin is about as elegant you will get in light colored shoes.

Combination shoes have, during past several seasons, lost their place with smart men, except for a few models. The black and white shoe, from a fashion standpoint, is out. The brown and white combination is worn by many and the popular model has very little or no punching whatever, making cleaning much easier. This brown and white straight tipped shoe, when worn for resort wear, usually carries a red rubber sole and heel. Some of the newer models are seen in brown buckskin and white calf.* Several brown and white shoes with a bal strap were also observed. Sport shoes of any description are not correct in town ant any time, no matter what type of suit a man may be wearing, weather gabardine, seersucker, or linen. The brown buckskin shoe, however, with leather heel and sole, is now accepted as a town shoe.

*Here are two very unique ideas; tan / dirty buck with brown calf or white buckskin trimmed with brown buck.

For business wear during the warmer months, smart men favor brown shoes in preference for black. The favorite model is a straight toe cap, either plain or with perforation, or a winged tip model. These shoes, should be light in weight and have a thin sole. For formal wear during the warmer months, either the five eyelet patent leather oxford shoe or the patent leather pump may be worn correctly with the dinner jacket.

Hose

The popularity of all white shoe had brought about new ideas in hosiery for summer, and the important colors that are seen in strong, solid hues, with the pastel shades definitely out. Pale green, yellow, salmon and other effeminate colors have given way to navy blue, dark brown, dark green and wine shades that look very smart when worn with white shoes and solid color flannel trousers. There is also a tendency toward the return to popularity of the horizontal stripe, usually in white, on these deep colored hose. Lisle hose in horizontal stripes is also returning to favor.

Silk hose, of course, will always be worn by men, as they have a definite place, particularly for business wear. These also, though light in tone, are more definite in color. Clocks are wider and more colorful. For beach club and general country wear, the wool anklet is favored by many, also in solid colors. Its comfort is naturally its outstanding factor, since the anklet eliminates the use of garters. For formal evening wear during the warm months, color is again introduced with black silk, blue silk and even wine colored hose. Black and blue hose very often carry a red clock. Argyle plaids, which came in strong last fall, have carried—themselves through to summer usage; these are seen in lighter colors with the patterns themselves not so bold, and are ideal for sports wear. They are perennial favorites with collage men.

Hats

For town wear, the sennit straw will unquestionably be favored by men who are always well-groomed, with colored club bands on sennit straw adding an interesting note to town clothing. Panama hats, of course, are always preferred by many men and are worn in town as well as in the country,* the favorite shape being a natural optimo crown with rolled brim. A new note in summer headwear is the deep Havana brown leghorn hat, with a white Shantung band or colorful India Madras or madras foulard band. These were first seen last year at Southampton and Newport. Last winter at Palm Beach they were seen on many smartly dressed men, and this summer should find this hat well on the road to popularity.

*The old rule states no straw in metropolis and that was strictly enforced in London back in the days.

Light weight felt hats have been on the ascendancy for many years, last winter at Palm Beach seeing the introduction of a new light weight hat in this country. The crown has a very definite taper to it and is worn in telescope manner. Each side of the hat has two holes for ventilation. The brim is of medium width and usually worn snapped down all the way around or snapped down in front. The band of the hat is approximately half an inch width, seen in dark grey shade and an English tan. A new shape that was launched last year in the panama hat has a tapered crown, the top of the hat being folded in a shape similar to a homburg, with a very narrow band and the brim snapped down all around. The hat is particularly appropriate for country wear.

Odd Waistcoats

It is said that after a depression men turn to color in their apparel, and after these several years of depression and drab clothing we find that men have actually lived up to this prediction. For one thing, there is a definite trend among well dressed men toward fancy weskits, particularly during the warm months, either double or single breasted, although the former is more popular. Considered very smart, they are usually seen in linens of solid colors; the majority favoring fawn, tan, bisque, light blue, and yellow. Tattersalls are also very popular, as are other types of checked weskits. The striped ribbed pique, with stripes running horizontally, has found favor with many and is seen in brown and white, green and white, grey and white, usually in the single breasted models.

Even all white weskits were observe on many men, while for evening wear the colored weskit was accepted by smart men at Palm Beach, and it is certain that this summer will find it well on the road to a new high in color for men’s clothing. These waistcoats are ideal when worn with a black single breasted dinner jacket, and look equally smart with a white linen dinner jacket and black trousers.*

*Color in men’s formal waistcoat is not advisable these days. If you must be different then try a pique vest with black-tie & only in summer.

Beach

With the advent of shirtless bathing, the outstanding swimming trunks of the season are those of light weight flannel, cut rather short and form fitting. They are most popular in black, navy blue, grey and wine, with these same colors holding true for the knitted fabrics, which are also very popular with younger men. The gabardine trouser is on the way out, as its drying qualities are against it, but cleanse swimming trunks have been introduced and have won favor with many men. They are also seen in the colors mentioned, with the addition of beige.

For the many men who will still wear swimming shirts, and probably always will, the most important shirt is the plain all white jersey shirt. Close to it in popularity are the one and one half inch even horizontal stripes in navy and white, grey and white, Columbia blue and white, and navy and red. Fancy weaves in bathing shirts haven’t taken on.

The majority of men, in place of a robe for the beach, prefer a polo shirt or squash shirt, which is similar to a polo shirt except that it has a crew neck and no buttons. Robes that are seen on the beach are not outstanding in color and pattern, but it should be noted that they are much more shorter, coming just about an inch or two below the knee. Many men still prefer solid color double breasted terry cloth robes, with light blue, yellow and white being the favorite colors. There are also many men who wear a terry cloth robe in a wrap-around model that is much shorter and does not cover the knees at all.

Cotton printed wraps in bold designs and contrasting colors are very popular, as are cotton or India madras robes lined with terry cloth. As for footwear on the beach, the outstanding note is the French Basque espadrille, which is made of canvas and has a rope sole. These are seen in solid color blue, brown, wine and very often white, with the latter sometimes in striped materials.

Formal Evening Wear

The subject of formal evening wear covers many functions during the warmer months. At Newport, when young men attend the theater at night they wear a type of dress which was popular some few years ago and which is considered formal today, but not in the strict sense of the word. This consists of a dark double or single breasted jacket, a plain white shirt with either a striped or figured bow tie, or four-in-hand, white flannel slacks and patent leather pumps or shoes.*

*This practice was very common during the pre-depression era (1920s) Palm Beach & at other fashionable southern resorts. Indulge in this only & only if you are well aware of the whole outcome of this look.

For a more dressy occasion, of course, where women wear evening clothes, men should wear dinner clothes, and the height of formality in warm weather is the dinner coat. It may be either double or single breasted, of midnight blue, black or white linen. The dark jackets may either peak lapel or shawl collar models, while white are invariably shawl collared, self faced. With white jackets, of course, dark trousers are worn. Pumps are favored by the better dressed men, although oxfords are equally correct. The shirt can be regulation starched bosom, pleated bosom, or the ordinary white broadcloth shirt with soft or starched collar. The colored weskit may be worn with single breasted dinner clothes, while a white pique weskit, or a cummerbund in any one of a variety of colors is smart with single or double breasted dinner jackets. The hat worn by smart men is the sennit straw. Both the deep red carnation and the blue cornflower have found a place in the wardrobe of well dressed men. Many men do not wear flowers in dinner clothes, but to get color have taken to solid silk handerkerchiefs in red, yellow and blue.

Accessories

It is interesting to note the number of men who have adopted the wearing of silk foulard handerkechiefs in the breast pocket of their jackets. These are worn with town and country clothes in madder, Persian or paisley designs.

Outstanding belts seen on trousers or slacks are of pigskin and have two metal rings in place of a buckle. The heavy weight safety pin, usually worn with a soft shirt and another pin similar to it, very often with crystal in the middle, is worn at the lower end of the tie to keep it in place on the shirt.

Bold link watch chains are favored by many well dressed men. When a double breasted suit is worn, or when one goes without a weskit during the warm months, there is the leather watch guard strap which is aliped through the button hole one the left lapel and drops through to the breast pocket.

For a hot day in town

Hot days in town have lost some of their terror for the business man now that he is at last adopting a more sensible attitude towards his clothes. Year by year, under compulsion of plain common sense, if nothing else, he has been discarding his habitual ideas about summer dress until now he stands emancipated from the old tradition of conservative blue serge and dark cloth. Seersuckers have left their southern homes an migrated to northern cities for the summer. Gabardines and tropical worsted become the rule rather than the exception. And other typical summer apparel has followed in logical order.

Common sense, however, must share credit for this welcome change with recent improvements in clothing manufacture. Besides the cool comfort these summer garments afford, they are now woven and tailored as precisely and as excellently as in heavy weight woolen fabrics. New methods of construction enable light weight clothing to retain its shape and form fitting features, and thus, by removing a bugaboo of long standing impetus has been given to the trend toward more sensible apparel for high mercury days. And it is their favor, too, that these garments permit a wider latitude of color.

END OF SECTION II OF THIS POST

START OF SECTION III OF THIS POST

That takes care of the summer survey. As mentioned above, it is the only one that will be presented this summer so read it well. Next we take a look at the illustrations from AA / Esky.

Alright the first illustration of this post is from Early 35’ and is at southern US resorts.



TRAILERS OF THE SUN FROM FLORIDA TO THE RIVIERA FAVOR THIS

There is always something at once smart and casual about the daytime attire of those who yearly trail the sun from Palm Beach to Cannes. The casualness is a studied nonchalance that stems from the comfort-stimulating qualities of the climate, while smartness follows as a matter of course from the deliberately complex social routine. In the above ensemble both qualities are combined. There is a carefree air about the burgundy colored polo shirt in contrast to the smartly tailored suit of natural tan gabardine.

Alright, now then the suit is originally prescribed as a Gabardine but there is no reason why you should be left out of alternatives, especially if Gabardine is not your cup of tea. I am pleased to inform you that this exact suit was and can be worn correctly in a tropical worsted as well as cotton & silk combinations. The best of all these alternatives would be a tropical worsted as it can best portray this type of a cut. Natural shade linen can work too, however, historically speaking whenever linen was used… usually one or two more “sporty” details also made their way to the suit’s design may that be patch pockets or a belted back. If you are really adventurous you can opt for an old fashioned washable fabric like the ones prescribed in the article.

GABARDINE TAKES ON MANY SHADES, BUT NONE SO POPULAR AS ITS NATURAL COLOR

During the past five years, and steadily increasing in favor each season, gabardine suitings have taken an important place in the fashion picture. Gabardines are, of course, not all one shade. The shades vary from a light- cream through green and grey to a deep Havana brown. The most popular shade of all, as seen on the opposite page, is the natural light cream color. Each season ,sees an increasing number of gabardines in double breasted models, and on the page opposite is one of the newer types which is having a considerable vogue in London at the present time. Note also the long side vents of the jacket.

Here color is more important than the fabric itself; i.e. Gabardine. Whatever fabric you may choose this natural shade is in the best of taste. The lightest you want to go is perhaps ivory, cream or off-white but those will be explained at another time. (There is actually, another variation which is unique in its own right…explained below with another illustration.)

This suit is in a 6 button DB model with side vents. Lapel is rolled to bottom and the button stance is in a keystone configuration, meaning it cannot be buttoned at the middle button. The overall look is easy fitting with minimal internal construction. Shoulder line is very natural, similarly pants are cut full around hips but taper down as they reach the shoes. Note that there is no break. You should take note of the nonchalant behavior in which this suit is worn, that is very crucial to this illustration and summer suits in general.

Other details include a Burgundy color polo shirt of silk and wool, which surprisingly is worn with collar outside the jacket. Note the brown pork-pie hat, light colored socks and of course brown suede shoes. Worthy of importance is also the red carnation which adds an air of dandy-ness to the entire ensemble.

On Pork-pie Hats…

THE BAKERS OF ENGLAND HAD A FINGER IN THE NAMING Of THE PORK PIE HAT

In one instance at least the culinary arts have done more than tickle the palate. They have influenced the apparel arts. For the pork pie hat derives its name and not a little of its shape from the round, crimp-edge pork pies to be seen every day in the windows of English bakers. Some twenty years ago the pork pie was ii favorite headpiece in America, but its vogue gradually died out leaving hardly a trace. Early last summer young Englishmen adopted this hat in light weight felts for general country wear. Americans traveling abroad were quick to borrow the revival from their British cousins, brought it back home, and late last summer spectators at the Southampton and Newport tennis tournaments were wearing it. From there the pork pie spread to the East-West polo matches in September, and became popular among the undergraduates at Eastern universities. The trend to pork pie hats is definitely in the ascendancy, and for Southern resort wear, especially in the lighter weight felts, is very popular.

On variation of brown buck shoes…

THEY ARE STILL CALLED BROWN BUCKSKIN SHOES BUT THEY’RE NOT ALWAYS MADE OF BUCKSKIN

Brown buckskin shoes are being worn in increasing numbers at he Southern beaches. Many of them are, however, not true buckskins, being made of reversed calf leather more properly called suede. The change from buckskin to suede may be accounted for, in part, by the fact that buck leather has a tendency to stretch.

Right away let us see another color variation of gabardine & summer suits in general. This is from summer of 34’



Ah… this is the very rare shade of grey green in gabardine. It is a 6x3 DB with ticket pockets and edge stitching on the jacket. This jacket can be buttoned at the top one also but here it is left rolling to the middle one. This is a very old style and you don’t have to have them in this configuration if you don’t like 6x3 DB’s. As with the suit above, this color was seen in; flannel and cotton also. It is somewhat hard to carry it off correctly in tropical worsted. Perhaps that green element has something to do with it. Jacket in an emergency can be used with either white or fawn colored trousers but NOT grey. Everything said with pervious illustration about the easy fitting of the suit, goes for this one also.

Other things worn here are; Optimo crown Panama hat with a black band, a pale green shirt of madras that has rounded collar attached & is worn pinned, tie is an authentic old fashioned wide striped in green and yellow (can be either club or regatta colors), pocket square is yellow and shoes are brown calfskin.

Having done with Gabardine suits we will look in another kind of a summer fabric; i.e. Silk. This is from summer of 34’



Actually, I have presented this illustration in the past (last summer to be precise) but without details. Since it is a wonderful illustration and I have all the info, let us go over the details this time.

This is a shantung silk suit in natural tan color. It is a 2-pc with 3-button jacket, rolled to the bottom button with all 3 pockets in patch style. This jacket here is non vented but can be with a single vent if you like. The use of silk as a summer fabric is suggested by their editors because of its very summery qualities. However, this is often disputed by wearers of silk articles that it is not quite as cool as you would think it is. Certainly, what appeared (and was) cool to wear seven decades ago is no longer the same and hence the slight disagreement.

Here this is about the coolness…

Half of the success of this outfit as a means of outsmarting the thermometer is purely psychological--affording an appearance of ultra coolness that is bound to have a favorable, providing real comfort for high mercury days and going a long way to disprove Mark Twain’s statement that nobody ever seems to do anything about the weather.

But back to the topic at hand… this natural shade again is of extreme importance. You can have this suit made up in most any summer fabric such as Linen, Tropical worsteds (even Fresco and Solaro), cotton and gabardine.

NATURAL SHADES IN SUITINGS GIVE THEM AN EDGE OVER THE DRY CLEANER

The newest note in summer suitings is the trend toward the natural shades, taking in a wide variety of tones all the way from a very light biscuit down to the deeper fawn. Considering the hazards of dust and dirt to which summer suits are subjected, this tendency is certainly a practical one. Washable fabrics, incidentally, are not all limited to cotton textures, for many new mixtures include other fibers with the result that the ability of the cloth to hold the crease and avoid wrinkles is considerably improved.

Other items worn here are; white shirt with point collar attached, India Madras bow tie with pointed ends, horizontal stripes light weight lisle hose, a Persian design silk handkerchief, and the perennial brown leghorn hat with white silk puggaree band.

WHITE PUGGAREE BAND AND LEGHORN HAT TAKE TO EACH OTHER \VITH GOOD EFFECT

Leghorn, always a practical hat, is much enhanced in appearance by the addition of a white puggaree band of Shantung silk, as seen in the sketch on the opposite page. The brown color is also important, and this particular hat was favored by many of the fashion leaders during the Palm Beach season. Its light weight suggests that one need not stop with suits in selecting a summer outfit that “weighs in” light, and this point also holds good for shirtings. Very smart, as well as comfortably light, is the white shirting swatched on this page, with an indistinct –weave which gives something of the effect of a small plaid.

One of the most elegant aspects of this illustration is the overall color scheme used here in this illustration. Starting from white and ending at red with tan, brown and yellow in between.

COLORFUL IN APPEARANCE, POROUS IN WEAVE, ROUGH IN TEXTURE

For those who like more color in their shirts, a fabric that is ideal with light colored suitings is swatched here. It features a porous weave which is in itself an assurance of coolness without at all detracting from either the coloring or the pattern. This type of shirting, in a regular weight, has been quite popular on smart eastern campuses during the spring and fits in well with the demand for rougher surfaced fabrics.

So what else is there in summer suiting? Much, more… for example this is from summer of 35’



Now, before you do anything have a good look at this suits and try to guess what fabric is this. Since, you already know this is a post about summer clothes you probably will have an idea but still won’t be absolutely sure. Believe or not this actually is seersucker & a genuinely hard to find one at that.

SEERSUCKER GETS ON THE FASHION BANDWAGON WITH A NEW SET OF PATTERNS

While losing none of its comfort and practicality for wear during extremely hot weather, seersucker has departed far enough from its old familiar striped patterns to join up with current fashion trends the result being such interesting patterns as the small brown and white check shown here. While the scene represents a typical beach club bar, it should be pointed out that, when worn with appropriate accessories, seersucker also makes an excellent suit for town wear.

& If seersucker is not to your style, you should be able to imagine this exact suit in a light woolen type also. With either of these choices, the suit pattern will be quite unique especially in this day and age. Since, I mentioned it… there is an illustration for another suit of very similar pattern in this post.

This here is in a small brown and white check and is in a 6x2 DB style that is buttoned both at the middle and bottom button. You should note that the buttons stance is slightly different. It is NOT a perfect rectangle even though it may appear to be at first glance. The upper row of buttons are slightly further horizontally apart than the bottom two rows. This is a button configuration that is most suitable to tall and men of larger frame. Pants are cut quite full and carry cuffs. Note the two buttons on the jacket sleeve.

Observe the jacket carefully and note the natural easy fitting lines. Note the presence of fullness underneath the arms (chest area) & a fitted waist line.

SUMMER CLOTHING MAKES UP FOR LOST GROUND IN THE FASHION PARADE

Now that the first flush of success and the excitement attendant thereupon has passed away, light weight summer clothing is beginning to “find itself” more and more each season. In other words, it is catching up with current trends and going through what might be called a process of fashion refinement. A case in point is the seersucker suit. This suit was introduced in the regular even-spaced candy stripe of grey and white, brown and white and blue and white. Its success was immediate but it still has some distance to go before catching up with the fashion vanguard. The first significant strides in the right direction were taken last season with the introduction of seersucker patterns in very fine checks and Glen Urquharts. This year, to carry on the good work, the fabric is being made in a very fine hound’s tooth effect, which is quite smart.

Other items worn with suit are a yellow mesh shirt worn with an India Madras tie with pointed ends, a dark brown Leghorn Hat with white silk “puggaree” band, very light weight wool hose in a brown Argyle pattern, brown suede monk front shoes.

A GOOD MIXER IN THE RESORT ENSEMBLE IS THE DARK BROWN LEGHORN HAT

Strictly a resort fashion, but a very-good one when worn for the proper occasion, is the dark brown leghorn hat. Its antecedents late back three seasons to the introduction of the dark brown straw hat at Southampton. These were seen at first with colored silk puggree bands and were brought over from Nassau. Last winter at Palm Beach, the same hat in dark brown leghorn with white puggree band made a fairly consistent appearance and this year the hat bids for increased popularity. Incidentally, it is considered correct only in the vegetable dyed leghorn. In addition to the popular white puggree band, however, other light colors in off white may be worn, as well as colored foulard, India madras or printed cotton. The hat, because of its dark color, harmonizes well with the new tan and natural shades of washable clothing that have taken such strong hold during the past year.

On monk front shoes…

THE MONK FRONT MODEL ADDS INTEREST TO BROWN SUEDE SHOE STYLES

A previous note in this Issue concerning the brown suede shoe had to do with its increasingly widespread acceptance. This one concerns one of the most interesting of the many new models that have been introduced in this shoe. It is the monk front model which is quite popular in England and has been taken up in this country by well dressed sportsmen, as well as by some of the fashion-conscious undergraduates at the smart Eastern universities. The monk front brown suede shoe eliminates the necessity for laces, being fastened by a buckle on the side of the shoe.

You should note that it is a tasteful practice to keep your headwear and footwear in the same color domain. But as with all rules, this too, can be broken with some thought and consideration.

So seersucker is not your forte and yet you are interested in this pattern…what are you to do? Fear not, for there is a beautiful alternative to the suit above. This is from Spring of 38’



I am primarily referring to the gent at the right but the one on the left (in a DB) is also of interest to us.

These are on an airplane as you can see and on the right we have a SB 3-pc peak lapel suit of soft Saxony suiting in brown and white small shepherd’s check. This fabric was actually used for semi-sports wear and such but these days you may perfectly use it for town wear. It is made up on a very formal town suit. This jacket carries 2 buttons, jetted pockets and a non vented back. Note the shape and width of the lapels, the swelled up chest, full cut pants and the over all color scheme used here. The only thing casual (if it can be called that) about this ensemble is the nature of the fabric. Other than that everything is quite formal and citified.

(I had the pleasure of observing a very similar cloth on my last trip to NY. The proud owner of the cloth, I believe, is a fellow member of LL)

Shirt is cream colored with red and brown striped tie, white pocket square, horizontal striped wool hose (never mind the exposed leg) and brown monk front shoes. Note the red carnation. For an interesting variation you can try a button down collar shirt here in the exact same color and keep everything else the same. Not for everybody though…

The gent on the backseat wears a DB suit of Sharkskin, which is a smooth hard finished fabric well known for its longevity. The jacket carries 4 buttons instead of 6 and is buttoned at the top row. The shirt is blue broadcloth with white stiff spread collar. Other accessories are a dark blue Spitalsfield tie, pearl stickpin, grey lisle hose and black calf blucher shoes on a town last.

He can wear either a dark blue topcoat or a tweed one in either single breasted or double breasted model. His hat may be a black or midnight blue Homburg or even a bowler. Sharkskin is well recommended for travel as it is not a fragile fabric. Notice the cut of the DB jacket here and see the very metropolitan lines. This sharkskin suit is more formal in nature than the one of similar cut made in Saxony fabric.

Going away from suits for a while towards more casual elements of summer wardrobe, let us look at a classic summer shirt from 30s. Originally popularized by the inhabitants of French resorts than later brought to West Indies and then eventually Palm Beach. This is from summer of 36’



This is made of Linen and was introduced at Cannes, later made its way to Palm Beach. This model is best done in white and bold blue stripes. You can also have it in horizontal stripes. Full sleeve version is better if you plan to use it underneath jackets and suits.

Another variation in color scheme would be this below. From Summer of 36’

Romany Stripe Shirt

This is done is Egyptian Cotton and pattern is called “Romany Stripes”. Also an importation from Europe that later got popular at Southern resorts. This will go best with fawn colored trouser and the one above (blue and white stripes) will be better matched with grey flannels.

In so far as classic casual summer / resort clothes are concerned with, let me present something and then we will be all done with it. This is from Summer of 34’



The only one item we are interested in observing in this illustration is the Basque Horizontal striped jersey shirt show at the left. It is a one heck of a classic resort / summer item and was beloved of their editors. You can use this shirt here in combination with any of the two casual outfits depicted in illustrations below. Because of its blue and white nature it will combine very nicely with the grey flannel trousers. If the color scheme of the shirt is “warm” in nature i.e. red, yellow, tan and such then fawn flannel trousers are best recommended.

ONE doubts whether the Basque fishermen really have their minds on their fishing, so busy do they seem to be inspiring the style setters with ideas for new fashions. At any rate, the horizontal stripe crew-neck shirt pictured above chalks up in other interesting beach fashion for the natives of the Bay of Biscay.

A word of caution though… especially for men in US. Even though this jersey shirt was offered in short sleeves, ¾ length sleeve and full sleeves, your best bet is to skip the ¾ sleeve length these days as that is prominently featured in women’s summer collections. There is a very high chance that it can be mistaken for the one (the 3/4th sleeve length) belonging to the other sex. The best possible route to avoid this unfortunate confusion is to purchase one with a fold collar and if worn outside then with side vents. Try this one in a model like the “Pirate Stripes” depicted above in this section. Both horizontal and vertical are perfectly correct.

Moreover, you can use this shirt underneath any of the summer suits depicted above if the occasion calls for a casual turn out. As mentioned above the horizontal stripe jersey shirt will work even better if its has a shirt like fold collar.

CHECKING INTO THE ANTECEDENTS OF THE HORIZONTAL STRIPED BEACH SHIRT

The horizontal striped cotton beach shirt may be said to follow on the heels of the popular espadrilles, in that it was likewise adapted from the native costume of the Basque fishermen, who may spend their lives in the same spot but whose garments, one by one, seem to be making the rounds of the fashionable world in sublimated and adapted form. The beach shirt provides an interesting nautical appearance and is worn at the smartest beach clubs. In addition to being highly fashionable, it is eminently practical, since it provides complete protection from those two sometime enemies of the bather--the sun when it becomes a little too persistent and the wind when it becomes a trifle chilly.

FOUND-A-NEW AND COLORPUL MEDIUM OF EXPRESSION FOR PULLOVERS

Pullovers take to a new medium of expression in an effective and colorful knitted fabric of pure Celanese Yarn. Both in the sport neck and crew types, these pullovers, while not exactly attempting to match the varied hues of the rainbow, at the same time do present about as wide a color range as may be found in garments of this kind.

Next, we take a look at the casual summer golfing / resort ensemble described above in the survey. This is from summer 34’



IF ANY fashion could be said to have approached the “uniform”. Status at Palm Beach last winter, it was certainly the combination of navy blue polo shirt and fawn colored flannel slacks. This ensemble was worn by men of all ages and proved especially effective with brown; buckskin shoes, in themselves no minor star in the current fashion firmament.

This is an important outfit that is sketched here so take note of it. This gent wears a navy blue polo shirt with a bright yellow and red silk handkerchief with ends tucked into the open throat of the polo shirt, and this item allows a lot of latitude in the manner of personal taste, as almost any color will harmonize or at least go well, with the navy blue polo shirt. Note that polo shirt is worn un-tucked and that is slightly different from the norm which was tucking in the shirt.

NOT TO REPEAT, BUT THE NAVY BLUE POLO SHIRT REALLY IS QUITE POPULAR

The statement that the navy blue polo shirt is one of the most promisingly popular fashions of the current season is repetition of an obvious fact. But such repetition is all the more inviting because of the garment’s emphatically immediate acceptance at all the popular resorts last winter. It has endless possibilities for port and spectator wear of all kinds and, although it is available in several colors, it is most widely accepted in the color shown here.

The trousers here are of most interest as these are fawn colored flannel, which works remarkable well as a neutralizer with all the natural earthy shades. Shoes are brown buck with crepe rubber soles and heels. Remember, that this is Not any old accidental tan but a specific and different color. Take note of the length of these pants and the fact that they rest on top of the shoes. Sporty & other rigorous activities call for more freedom in movement and hence longer trousers are to be avoided.

THE FAVORED APPENDAGE TO THE POLO SHIRT IS THE FAWN-COLORED SLACK

Concurrent in popularity with the navy blue polo shirt and, as a matter of fact, often a part of the same outfit with it, is the fawn-colored flannel trouser. This was another important high light of the southern season and provided what was decidedly a new note in trouser colorings. Palm Beach showed a definite acceptance of this color.

On weight and cleaning of summer clothes…

SUMMER FABRICS AIM AT LIGHTNESS IN WEIGHT AND WASHABILITY

Two good points to keep in mind about summer fabrics are, first, that they should be light in weight and, second, that they should be washable. Adding up those qualifications by a simple process of arithmetic, we get lightweight washable fabrics. These textiles have been growing in demand every summer, and this season promises to see them at their highest point of popularity thus far. It is interesting to note that light weight washable fabrics get the bid from men in all positions, from society’s medium strata to its highest, and that they are put to work in apparel intended for play as well as for the more serious-minded hours of business.

Next in line is almost the same kind of an attire with a dressiness to it. This is from summer of 35’



When the gilded playboys turn to bronze under the winter sun, that’s when summer’s beach fashions are born. For example, these things which were prime at Nassau are now par for Nantucket and points whereabouts.

First we will focus on the standing gent. You will realize that he is essentially wearing the same items as in the pervious illustration but the appearance here is slightly dressy. The blue polo shirt is tucked in the light grey flannel slacks, which are pleated with self belt loops and worn quite high on the waist… thereby making the leg line vertically elongated. The silk scarf here is a white & blue colored, worn in a similar fashion as in the pervious illustration. Shoes are more a trifle more formal than in the last picture and are white buck trimmed with black calf. On the gents head is a blue beret, which was typical of French resorts.

The gent on the left (sitting) wears a silk and wool beach shirt, worn with a pair of blue sailcloth beach shorts (but can be trousers also). Note the twine belt and the white canvas espadrilles. In the foreground you will spy a light-weight yellow beach shirt and a pair of twine sandals with leather soles and heels. The shirt can be worn with both of these two outfits.

Lastly look at another alternative from summer of 36’



Another variation which was inspired from the tropical bush shirt. First spotted at Nassau and ideal for fishing and general resort wear. Note the belt, pockets and the bottom edge of the shirt. This here is worn with wide wale corduroy slacks which were also recommended for general resort wear.

Well… this ends the late spring / early summer illustration section. Next section “The Regatta”.

END OF SECTION III OF THIS POST

START OF SECTION IV OF THIS POST

Moving onto the last section of this long post, observe one of the most lavishly drawn AA illustrations from 1930s. This is from summer of 36’



A typical panorama view of the Royal Regatta at Henley-on-Thames, England. This picture shows spectators in punts and boats at the finishing point of the races, opposite the Steward’s Club and Judge’s Stand. Founded in 1839, the annual Henley Regatta is perhaps the most colorful event of its kind and undoubtedly the richest in tradition.

Quite something isn’t it? These white edged blazers are of vital interest as they can (or I guess could be) be worn with almost any resort or Breakfast and Tennis ensemble. Proper neutralizing trousers (flannels) are worn with them. If you want to omit the tie with this, the options will be a polo shirt underneath or a bold horizontal striped one (like the one above). You can also wear a bold striped muffler, which will obviate the need for a shirt and collar.

The Regatta

A pictorial and verbal sketch of the regatta as a prime source of major resort fashions

It may be set down as one of the more agreeable manifestations of the law of compensation that, while there is nothing constant about fashions themselves, there is at least a high degree of consistency in the sources of their origin. Thus, a fashion scout might not be able to tell you in advance what beach fashions will be originated in 1937, but he could tell you with surprising accuracy the exact spots on the globe at which they will originate. Once, of course, a fashion has made its initial appearance, the scout can trace its future dissemination. Until that time, however, he must rely on the consistency of the important sources of fashion origination and plan to be on the spot where the major new fashions are destined to be born.

It is this factor which lends so much importance to the main sources of fashion and makes them a proper subject of study for the informed men’s store merchant. For beach fashions the Riviera resorts supply the original impetus, and these colorful activities have often been discussed in APPAREL ARTS. Another significant fashion source, less frequently treated in these pages, is the one at which the new resort fashions originate. As in the case of beach fashions, the word “source” must be given a plural interpretation, for the birthplace of the new resort fashions is not continued to any single locality. It is, however, largely confined to a single type of activity the various regattas held in England and, no a lesser extent, in this country.

To one who is not familiar with the color and tradition of the famous regattas, they may seem comparatively unimportant vents at which to search for major new fashions. Yet no one aware of the type of people who attend these events and of the kind of apparel inspired by them would overlook the regatta as a vital fashion source. To a considerable degree, the regatta is associated with apparel of a semi-nautical nature, and thus the regatta trend in dress may be described as one reflecting the natural cleanliness, coolness and crispness of the sea. And since resort fashions take their cue from apparel worn at boating events, their coolness, comfort and smartness is a direct heritage of the regatta influence.

Most famous of these boating events is the annual Henley Regatta, and an impression of this event is seen in the sketch on the opposite page, as well as in several of the photographs on the following page. Another famous English regatta is the one at Cowes, at which the Royal Yacht Squadron and many other important English yacht clubs are present. Here everyone turns out in sea-going clothes, with white yachting caps, white shoes, white shoes, white and grey flannels, and blue yachting coats much in evidence. In America, probably the foremost boating event is the Yale-Harvard Regatta held at New London, Connecticut, in June. During the week of the regatta the harbor is crowded with millionaire’s yachts, and many major fashions owe their origin to this regatta. It is one of the few boating events, however, at which one does, not see a definitely nautical type of attire among the spectators. Aside from a sprinkling of crew hats, school ties and banners, most of the students from both schools wear the same type of dress as on the campus. Other important boating events in this country are the Poughkeepsie Regatta, the Derby Day Races at Yale, and the races at Newport all significant fashion events and all marked by apparel of a nautical influence. One sees grey or blue jackets, white or grey flannel trousers and, usually, all white shoes with red rubber soles and heels. Students turn out in their school colors, evidenced in their neckwear and in the bands of their sailor straw hats.

Resort apparel no longer includes tweeds, checks and rough country fabrics, which are now reserved strictly for country wear, but rather takes its lead from the various regattas. A well dressed man at a resort would be likely to wear an ensemble consisting of a single or double breasted grey flannel jacket, white flannel trousers, a cool shirt probably in solid color, colorful striped tie, and brown and white or all white shoes. His headwear selection could be a sennit straw hat, panama hat or light weight felt. Incidentally, in connection with resort wear, mention should be made of the recent inroads of gabardine on the more conservative type of resort dress. The gabardine suit in the natural tan shade is currently especially popular with the smart resort set.

A bit of detail on the Regatta jackets…

A New Sport Back Jacket

In June, 1934, at the Yale-Harvard Regatta at New London, Conn., a new fashion was born. It was a two-button single breasted notched lapel jacket with patch pockets and seven inch side vents. An important detail of the jacket were two small inverted pleats, about eight inches long, at each shoulder in the back actually a small gusset. This gusset-sleeved coat constituted a significant variation on the bi-swing model and soon established itself as a promising authentic fashion. It was observed at various fashion centers throughout the summer of 1934 and the following fall and winter found it steadily gaining in favor with university undergraduates and prep school students. By spring of 1935 it had attained considerable prominence with young men of the college type. At the Princeton House Parties early May of 35’, this jacket was observed in considerable numbers. It was worn both as an odd jacket and as part of complete suits, in either case carrying the same style back. Gabardines in the putty color, Shetlands and herringbones and various checked tweeds were the fabrics in which the model predominated. In some instances the jacket was a three-button instead of a two-button model, and often regular pockets with flaps instead of the original patch pockets were seen. Ideal for university and prep school students for the fall and winter seasons, this model was promoted both in odd tweed jackets and tweed suits as a distinctive fashion presentation.

Regatta Jacket front

Regatta Jacket Side

Regatta Jacket Back

There is actually a beautiful full color illustration of this type of a jacket from AA. I will present it maybe next time.

I guess this wraps about all for this post, till next time…

Sincerely
Etutee


END OF SECTION IV OF THIS POST

Etutee, you remain an inspiration. Thank you for putting this together.

As always, a fantastic post, thank you. By any chance, are you colluding with our tailors to keep them in business? There is so much inspiration in this article that will have to be translated into clothes sooner rather than later...

An inspired and inspirational article.

I can definitely see myself wearing those fawn flannels and navy blue polo shirt. A splendid combination. Those summer suits are also marvellous.

The one component of the illustrations that I struggle with are the white canvas espadrilles worn by the gent on the beach. These strike me as overly foppish. Do any members wear espadrilles of this type for the beach I wonder?

Etutee: What more can be said? Wonderful. Mssrs. Boyer and Antongiavanni need keep an eye over their collective shoulder.

The one component of the illustrations that I struggle with are the white canvas espadrilles worn by the gent on the beach. These strike me as overly foppish. Do any members wear espadrilles of this type for the beach I wonder?

Frankly I, too, found this jarring, especially with the round-the-ankle up-the-leg lace-up. Struck me less as foppish and more as distinctly feminine. Have you discerned whether this would have been genuine for the period or was the illustrator taking a playful poke at sensibility?

A wonderful post, as always. Many thanks.

Thank you once again!

I believe that espadrilles with laces were worn in the Thirties. I've seen pictures of the Duke of Windsor wearing them, as well as illustrations by different artists.

Stephen

Splendid, etutee, and thanks!

In re rope-soled canvas espadrilles, Hemingway mentions them (as "rope-soled shoes") in _The Sun Also Rises_ and _For Whom the Bell Tolls_ and I believe was fond of them. Makes sense, as they're a Mediterranean folk/peasant standard. Part of the traditional costume, for instance, for the Pamplona sanfermines. I looked in Carlos Baker's 1969 biography to see if there was a photo of EH wearing them--I think there is, in Pamplona, but it's so grainy as to be ambiguous. In the plates following p. 206, though, there's a photo of a British friend, Capt. E.E. (Chink) Dorman-Smith in Paris in 1924 in tennis kit, wearing rope-soled espadrilles with the ankle laces over dark socks (!) with long trousers (the laces show on a bent leg where the trousers lift). The rope-soled espadrilles I saw when I lived in Spain in '78 had fairly stiff soles, and of course no heel counter, so the slipper style without ankle laces was not so easy to keep on one's feet when climbing on rocky beaches (or presumably playing tennis), especially if one has narrow feet. Of course, even by then modern sneakers and boat shoes had pretty well taken over that duty, so the Spaniards and others I saw wearing espadrilles were mostly wearing the slipper style as a cool summer knockabout shoe (no socks) where today they'd wear slides or flip-flops--not for serious walking. I never got the impression that the laces were thought effiminate or foppish there, but like other things, when their functional rationale withers, they might conceivably take on those associations. In 1935, though, I suspect they just said "I winter on the Mediterrean," so to those Americans who would find that pretentious or effete, the laces would merely confirm their prejudices. To everybody else I imagine they would just be exoitc, since they probably weren't so easy to get over here.

whittaker wrote: The one component of the illustrations that I struggle with are the white canvas espadrilles worn by the gent on the beach. These strike me as overly foppish. Do any members wear espadrilles of this type for the beach I wonder?

Here are Espadrilles with lacing that goes up the ankle:

http://espadrillesetc.com/detalle.asp?C ... and%20Gala

What a wonderful post!

And just in time for Summer inspiration.

Many thanks, etutee , for the tremendous effort you put into your posts and the thoughtful, detailed analyses and fabulous illustrations. Your work brings the period alive.

Truly an education for me.

Just a small question here; I can't quite make out what this model is wearing under the bush shirt below.

Is that an ascot or perhaps even another shirt?

And what would be the shirt fabric be? A linen?

dopey wrote:http://espadrillesetc.com/detalle.asp?C ... and%20Gala

Thank you, dopey. The ones with laced ankles lacing seem an anachronism I would not care to repeat. These espadrilles, however, would make fine beachwear.