Bespoke details in RTW
Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:46 pm
In the last few years there have been many details that were considered particular to bespoke or handmade suits that have crept into RTW and become ubiquitous, in particular, working sleeve buttons and faux pick stitching. Recently I saw two RTW overcoats being worn with a detail that I have not noticed before; the shoulder seam that runs from the lapel to the sleeve head is raked back at a dramatic angle, practically reaching down to the bottom of sleeve head, far more than I ever seen on any bespoke suit. On the RTW overcoats that I saw it is obviously done for purely cosmetic effect. I was wondering if anyone had seen any other overcoats like this?
In it's true form I have seen the slightly curved shoulder seam in mostly Italian bespoke suits and on the more aggressively tailored suits it can go quite far back, but never like I saw it on these RTW overcoats. As a final question, what purpose is this type seam supposed serve?
In it's true form I have seen the slightly curved shoulder seam in mostly Italian bespoke suits and on the more aggressively tailored suits it can go quite far back, but never like I saw it on these RTW overcoats. As a final question, what purpose is this type seam supposed serve?