The London Lounge

A recent post on 30's style leads one to an interesting Japanese site in the "Gallery " section of which I found a picture of a jacket's interior which had a fabric maker's badge (Holland & Sherry ).

http://www.the30sstyle.com/

I have an old Harris Tweed jacket that has the "orb with cross" badge and occasionally see a Dugdale or Lesser badge in old bespoke.

Is there any ryhme or reason as to why, when, or where one sees these badges?

Curious minds want to know!
DDM

I found, by accident, that my tailor sews the fabric label into the lining of one back pocket.

Aus_MD

Surely it entire;y de[pends if the wholesaler or manufacturer supplies one with the suit length?

That said my instructions absolutely forbid such advertisements.

DFR wrote:Surely it entire;y de[pends if the wholesaler or manufacturer supplies one with the suit length?

That said my instructions absolutely forbid such advertisements.

In my case the label is merely a strip of the selvedge with the cloth merchant's name. I do not construe this as advertising (it could not be in a less visible location) but a record for future reference.

Aus_MD

In my case the label is merely a strip of the selvedge with the cloth merchant's name. I do not construe this as advertising (it could not be in a less visible location) but a record for future reference.

If this is a piece of the selvedge left attached as part of the garment, you should ask your maker not to leave it on. The selvedge is woven of a different yarn count and, often, a different yarn content. It reacts differently than the main part of the fabric to things like environment, moisture, and dry cleaning. It often exhibits this in the form of puckering or drooping.

If the maker is cutting it off and reattaching the part with the weaver's name, that's fine.

Almost all cloth arrives at the tailor with a small label denoting at least the merchants name and sometimes the collection name and content of the goods.

For example
Holland & Sherry, Victory Cloth,
Super 140's wool, cashmere and silver mink.

It is entirely up to the tailor to sew this label onto the garment or not. If he wants to share billing with the cloth used or have only his name attatched to the garment. I do sew them in when the label gives the collection name and cloth make up, but usually not just fot the brand name.

I once heard that what is written on the selvedge was similar to reading the label of a good wine. The more information on the wine label as to the origin of the grapes the better the quality. The more information on the selvedge the better the cloth.
This is as much a question by me as a statement. I don't want to state this( wine label vs. selvedge) as fact if what I heard was only someones opinion or "folk lore". If anyone can elaborate on the significance of the selvedge, I would like to know.

AlexanderKabbaz wrote: If this is a piece of the selvedge left attached as part of the garment, you should ask your maker not to leave it on. The selvedge is woven of a different yarn count and, often, a different yarn content. It reacts differently than the main part of the fabric to things like environment, moisture, and dry cleaning. It often exhibits this in the form of puckering or drooping.

If the maker is cutting it off and reattaching the part with the weaver's name, that's fine.

Thank you Alex, I had been imprecise. Indeed that is what my tailor does, sewing a cut strip of sevedge into a pocket.

Aus_MD

I happen to like the "badges" and usually have them sewn in the lining. It is entirely a personal idiosyncrasy. I like unusual cloths and there somethimes is a "story" behind the cloth, the badge serves as a reminder of sorts.

By the way, does anyone know the significance of the "blancs" appellation on the Carlo Barberis badges?

Terry A. Teplitz

aus_md wrote:

AlexanderKabbaz wrote: If this is a piece of the selvedge left attached as part of the garment, you should ask your maker not to leave it on. The selvedge is woven of a different yarn count and, often, a different yarn content. It reacts differently than the main part of the fabric to things like environment, moisture, and dry cleaning. It often exhibits this in the form of puckering or drooping.

If the maker is cutting it off and reattaching the part with the weaver's name, that's fine.

Thank you Alex, I had been imprecise. Indeed that is what my tailor does, sewing a cut strip of sevedge into a pocket.

Aus_MD

And who is your tailor, sir?

I have found that mid-level and low-level makers use fabric badges especially in RTW. (Coppley used badges in both its RTW and MTM.) The best makers do not.

I have also found that the most prevalent badges are by Loro Piana and Zegna. They have done an excellent job in marketing their brands. The average, high-end shopper knows that Loro Piana and Zegna make excellent cloth as well as clothes. The average shopper never heard of either Smith's, Lesser, or Harrison.

BirdofSydney wrote:
And who is your tailor, sir?

John Cutler in O'Connell St, although I sometimes use Joe Cutrone in Edgecliffe for casual clothing.

Aus_MD