Straight or crooked...?

[uppercase]

Straight or crooked, open or closed front quarters, soft or structured shoulders?

These are just some of the bespoke coat decisions that I am grappling with.

1. Straight or crooked?

Thomas Mahon says, ""To sum it up- a straight coat is a more youthful cut, and a crooked coat more mature."; http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000072.html

I don't know.

I believe that Flusser suggests that a more closed coat gives a more formal presentation and when the 2 upper buttons, in a 3B suit, are in a vertical line, or even both closed, they give the impression of length to a man's torso.

On the other hand, the larger "V" of a straight coat creates a slimmer impression and presents more of the tie and shirt to the world.

2. Open or closed quarters?

If a straight coat elongates , do open quarters similarly add perception of heighth by lengthening the legs. Do closed quarters diminish impression of height? Open quarters appear more sporting, more country, closer to the hacking origins of a coat. Whereas, closed appear more conservative, , more circumspect, indeed, more "closed" to the viewer.

But what body type should wear what and to what advantage?

3. Soft or structured shoulders.

Perhaps the most talked about aspect of bespoke with die hard adherents. Natural, comfortable, degage vs. powerful, purposeful and militaristic.

Apply it to the chest as well.

Apart from everyone's theorectical love affair with, and admiration for soft, and the associated mystique, who can wear soft to his physical advantage and who should best avoid it?

What can we objectively advise is the better style for which body type? Taller, shorter, slimmer, more robust....who can wear what?

[Leon]

As far as straightening and crookening a coat are concerned, Mahon seems to be talking about something else. See Leonard Logsdail's and Chris Despos' posts below:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=272

Leon

[Leonard Logsdail]

I think you need to call me before you get too confused. basically, crookening and straightening really only appertain to the fit of the coat and not necessarily the look.

Anyway, it's really more than can be detailed given the time I have today, but feel free to cal any time from next Monday on.

Leonard

[uppercase]

Leonard, many thanks for the generous offer!