The London Lounge

I wish to elicit suggestions.

I am looking for a reliable, high quality tailor with some vision in the city of Chicago.

One would think that as a major city, this would not be hard to find. On recent search, I have seen glimpses of hope but have not yet found someone who works in parallel with my vision of refined traditional clothes with modern finishes. I feel there must be someone out there that fits the bill without having to travel to the Meccas of fashion every time I want a suit, shirt or adjustment.

Thank you for any assistance you may be able to provide.

Pucci - I am not first-hand familiar, but they are quite well-known..

When I last looked, Pucci was rooted firmly in the 1940s.

And $5,000 to start. Are we even sure they are still in business?

Will wrote:When I last looked, Pucci was rooted firmly in the 1940s.

manton wrote:And $5,000 to start. Are we even sure they are still in business?

Sort of like Organic produce - 18th Century farming techniques at 25th Century prices.

Not directly what you asked for, but your namesake--Steed tailors-- travels to Chicago about 4-5 times a year. Not the same as being right there, but Ed does good work if you like his style. I don't know any London tailor who gets here more often.

There are others from London-- I'd guess that Kilgour, Dege, Poole, Huntsman and a handful of the other large firms make it through Chicago at least twice a year.

Dear Steed,

Welcome to the forum!

As others have recommended Pucci certainly are the tailors in Chicago, if their price and silhouette is to your taste. Last I checked with them... summer last year... they were still in business but were not accepting new clients without any referrals. However, this may have changed since then.

Their shop is on an upper floor and only accessible through an appointment... in other words... there are no "walk-ins" permitted. At the ground floor of that building (where they reside about 333 N. Michigan Ave... I think) you will see a few jackets made by them in showcases. You can have a good look at them and decide for yourself if that is anything close to what you like. Now, as I said... they had these till last year. I don't know their status currently.

As always... it is best to call in advance.


sincerely
etutee

dopey wrote:Sort of like Organic produce - 18th Century farming techniques at 25th Century prices.

That's good!

While I have never used Chris Despos, as I am an Oxxford customer, I have heard very good things about his work. A Cigar Aficionado article(1999)) described his work as such:

Chris Despos 34 East Oak Street, Chicago, Illinois; (312) 944-8833.Classic elegance is the rule here, and Despos's aim is for propriety of proportions. Updated traditional in its best form, crafted in midweight worsteds that have good drape and hold their shape. Bench-made suits from $3,000; jackets from $2,400.

As for poor Mr. Pucci, he merely lays down for a nap and people throw dirt in his face. I bumped into to him this past summer(Pucci is in the same building as the Tavern Club) and he seemed to be in top form. Not to say that he is stuck in the 1940's but I can think of a lot worse places to be stuck, sartorially speaking.

Pucci is still open, and had some nice suits on display just a few weeks ago. Beyond the already mentioned lobby, they have an additional window display which is two or three floors up, but still visible from the street. A pretty sight in the Chicago evening.

I'd also suggest a visit to Despos if you have not already had one. I think he's appointment only right now. If you go, try to visit when the sun is out, his shop entrance takes great advantage of the light.

I'm assuming you've visited the other usual suspects like Paul Chang; Mazzei, Montopoli Strahorn; Frank Laterza and I think I'm missing one or two.

Another alternative is Oxxford which has its factory in Chicago.

You would have to buy at a local retailer, but either Mike Cohen, the CEO, or Rocco, the head tailor, should be doing trunk shows in their hometown in March. Therefore, there is little danger of things being "lost in translation" from the salesroom to the work benches. Also, Rocco could make an individual pattern for you.

If you want, I can arrange a call to Mr. Cohen.