The London Lounge

I picked up this image recently, and it was described as a Neapolitan cuff. Is it accurate?

Isn't this type of cuff commonly known as the casino cuff? That's because you can hide cards in the cuff and be able to cheat at a card game through substituting them?

I've only seen them in a RTW men's shirt from Borrelli. Perhaps that's the Neapolitan connection?

Perhaps some more knowledgable members of the lounge can enlighten us further.

cocktail cuff, turnback cuff, flowback cuff, "m" cuff...the names are endless
I don't think that this cuff is Neapolitan as such. T&A did it for Connery's Bond.
Different shirtmakers often have their own names for the same collars/cuffs, e.g. one shirtmaker may call a particular collar a French collar while another may calll it a Milanese collar.

At Turnbull it is called the Cocktail Cuff.

Turnbull's version has less space at the apex so that there is more of a "V" formed.

In my humble opinion this cuff is neither fish, nor meat. It is this ambiguity and alleged ambivalence that make this hybrid French turned cuff - buttoned cuff not very dear to my heart. What benefit does it bring to us? Spare us the effort of buying a beautiful set of cufflinks? Save the situation if we travel and forget them at home? Or, if we choose it for the practical purpose of hiding playing cards (you're right, timekeeping), then we shouldn't bother giving any more thought to elegance, should we?

According to legend, Turnbull & Asser created this style cuff at the suggestion of Terence Young, who took it upon himself to dress up Sean Connery for Bond. The brief was a style of cuff that was modern in inspiration but elegant in style. In the fast-moving world of 1962, a gentleman would wear double cuffs but not, apparently, have time for links. Hence the design. Lobb also created a 007 derby style -- sort of like the C&J Aintree. I'm not sure if the Anthony Sinclair "Conduit Cut" of suits was designed specifically for 007, or if it was just one of the 1960s styles that Bond helped bring to the fore.

This cuff has since been appropriated by all sorts of makers, from the Italians to Oscar Udeshi. I think even Charvet has the option in MTO or bespoke.

I think even Charvet has the option in MTO or bespoke.

Sorry to keep beating the same drum, and with all due respect, I object, Honorable RJ-Ship, to this concept. If a shirt is bespoke, there is no option which is not available. Period. If there is then your shirt is not bespoke. Again, Period.

AlexanderKabbaz wrote:Sorry to keep beating the same drum, and with all due respect, I object, Honorable RJ-Ship, to this concept. If a shirt is bespoke, there is no option which is not available. Period. If there is then your shirt is not bespoke. Again, Period.

In theory, yes. In practice many tailors & shirtmakers will politely refuse certain requests.

AlexanderKabbaz wrote:If a shirt is bespoke, there is no option which is not available. Period. If there is then your shirt is not bespoke. Again, Period.

What about classic couture?

Messrs. Dior or Balenciaga would have produced that season’s garment in a size to fit the client. Not much choice for the client there; she either ordered or did not.