The London Lounge

This is a continuation of my 'savile row tailor' thread.

Well, I did enjoy my first experience at Dege. Graham Lawless and I quickly worked out that for a first suit a basic 3-Button in navy blue would be best.

The fabric choice took the longest. I picked a subtle pinstripe pattern with the dots farther apart which makes it a less bold visually than denser pinstripes. Because I am slender and 5'8", the pinstripe is wider (about 1.5cm or so) which give me a little bulk but still makes me look taller. Centered between the white pinstripes and about .4cm wide is a slightly darker band that gives a bit of shadow to the pinstripes in natural light. It's hard to describe, but the slightly darker center and helps accentuate the pinstriping but gives the overall look a bit more dynamic without being loud at all. The weight of the fabric was a standard mid-weight cloth suitable for year-round wear.

That done, there were about 100 decisions about things even I had not thought much about, but was able to quickly decide upon. So regarding construction, I will have no back pockets on the trousers - I never use them and you shouldn't use them anyway - a wallet just distorts the fabric. There will be a hidden front interior pocket for a cellphone (or tiny handgun, I suppose?). Both front pockets will have 'coin pockets inside them because I hate the rattling of change and keys when I walk (reminds me of spurs, and I walk in Philadelphia, not the wild west!). Trousers will have adjustable band as well as buttons for braces - I have sloped shoulders that don't hold braces well, but perhaps in summer it would be nice to loosen up the trousers and breath a bit with braces. No cuffs on the trousers. I wanted a clean look that was a little formal for weddings, opera, etc, should I need to dress up the suit a bit.

For the Jacket, single back vent to discourage stuffing hands in pockets. Short wallet-length left breast interior pocket with zipper for a secure and accessible wallet - I HATE groping for a wallet that is in a deep breast pocket! Longer pocket on the right breast interior for plane tickets and such that need a little length to hold the item. Horizontal exterior side pockets - the angled ones reminded me too much of a hunting jacket.

I think that was all the decisions.

Then I was measured - can't remember the fellows name. But he took about 87 different measurements, most of which had to do with my upper body, especially the shoulders, upper arms, etc. He said they preferred 3/8" of shirt cuff to show, which seemed a bit much to me, but we'll see how it looks. I think I usually do with 1/4" or less, just enough to show the shirtcuff. By the end, I was absolutely certain that D&S and the cutter knew my body better than any woman or me ever have!

Overall, the look is supposed to say 'military man in civilian dress'. I figure with this kind of expense and precision, I want something that is precisely fit - loose and relaxed I can buy off the rack.

Any thoughts or questions, please feel free to post.
All enquiries and comments / suggestions welcome. I am turning my mind to the design of the coller - pointed? What?

Incidentally, is Savile pronounced with the flat 'a' (bad) or some other way?

It seems that you're well on your way. You will find things that you want to changes in Suit 2.0, but there's no real way of knowing now what they'll be.

Don't neglect the shirts-- you'll want to look your best in this new suit, and Dege is one of the best places in London for shirts.

aama19147 wrote:This is a continuation of my 'savile row tailor' thread.

Well There will be a hidden front interior pocket for a cellphone (or tiny handgun, I suppose?). way?

How is this to be done - where is it? I am used to the fob pocket accessed from the top of the waist band which is very effective but can't picture this.

DFR wrote:

aama19147 wrote:This is a continuation of my 'savile row tailor' thread.

Well There will be a hidden front interior pocket for a cellphone (or tiny handgun, I suppose?). way?

How is this to be done - where is it? I am used to the fob pocket accessed from the top of the waist band which is very effective but can't picture this.

This will be an interior pocket on the left side, front hip (inside left of the fly). phones are getting very small, so this seemed like a nice way to hide the phone and still be able to feel it vibrate when the bell can't be used.

related from the other thread, to answer people's ?,

bry2000 wrote:Make sure you have Mr. Bailey, the cutter, take your measurements with Graham looking on.

I checked and indeed it was Mr. Bailey who took my measurements with Graham looking on.
a.

Thank you for the description of the Dege process.

I have been - rather lazily - trying to settle on a SR tailor (something that seems very hard to do from this side of the Atlantic) and I have found myself favoring Dege.

How are the shoulders? I was under the impression that they have a bit of structure (read: padding) to them but perhaps that is a mistaken belief.

Can they make a coat with a very soft (A&S-like) shoulder?

a.:

I am happy to hear that you had a pleasant experience in London. It was nice speaking to you before your trip.

cantabrigian:

The Dege & Skinner house style is fairly structured, including the shoulders. Their web site was recently updated to include close-up photos of jackets (see the Home Page and the Bespoke Suits page). Even though the jackets are on mannequins, the photos are representative of the house style. By the way, Robert Bailey, the head cutter, is shown in the photo on the Bespoke Suits page.

I read a short article from a London Newspaper (that used to be on Dege & Skinner's web site) where Robert Bailey indicated that he is flexible in terms of style. (I think Thomas Mahon's blog also indicated that Dege & Skinner is flexible). You should e-mail them to see if they feel comfortable making a suit with a soft shoulder. They will be visiting the U.S. at the end of March.

May I ask: Why are you favoring Dege if you like a soft shoulder?

Let me know if you have any questions.

--Sean

A very fair question. I really fell in love with the look of the Dege silhouette/waist which I would occasionally see on some (mostly younger) City-ites in London.

I would imagine that the structure necessary to produce such an effect usually does not come with a soft shoulder but after having had a bit more experience with some Oxxfords and Greenfields, I am trying to see to what extent I can have my proverbial cake and eat it too.

encooper wrote: May I ask: Why are you favoring Dege if you like a soft shoulder?

Likewise, sean.

I am anticipating my next fitting which will be in my home city of Philadelphia this friday (!). I assume Sean that you will meet the tailors in Wilmington.

No idea what will happen exactly at this stage. I assume some more measuements, some more money, and perhaps a few more decisions to be made.

Still, quite enjoying my first time at it, really.

Will inform all as to events at this next fitting. If you are interested, check out their website to see if they are traveling to a location near you soon.

Cheers,
a.

a.:

How did the fitting go? You were correct, I just had a fitting in Wilmington this morning (Saturday).

Sean

encooper wrote:a.:

How did the fitting go? You were correct, I just had a fitting in Wilmington this morning (Saturday).

Sean

sorry for the very late reply, sean. I had an eventful summer.

This second fitting was very involved, took over an hour and I added a navy blazer to the mix. They didn't ask for another payment at that time. several weeks later I received the suit via Fedex, and it was nice - really, really nice. It immediately fit better than any other suit I've owned. It was a real pleasure to have it around, altho I must admit that due to moving I didn't wear it immediately. I just had it hanging up to get the folds out and would occasionally admire it the way one does any fine work of art.

Dege had stated I should wear it several times before the next fitting so that it would shape itself to my body and make the final fitting better. Eventually, I had an occasion and began wearing it a bit. Summer is an especially brutal time to break in a suit, so I took it easy and only wore it to mild, indoor events.

In July, they were here again, but due to poor scheduling, I missed their visit and just had the third fitting for the suit a fortnight ago here in Philadelphia at the Westin. This fitting was also an hour (!) and involved many small incremental changes, some of which I had noticed and some of which were only visible to the eagle eyes of Graham Lawless, who did all the pinning and such.

At that time I also tried on the basic contruct of the blazer. It is going to be a traditional military cut navy blazer, and I obtained some service buttons for the Commonwealth of Pennsvlvania to put on it. I had wanted silver buttons, but they were only available from the manufacturor by the gross, and since I had no use for 288 buttons, I had to go with the gold button sets.

Obviously, this sort of garment is perfect for Dege to make as military is their specialty, and this is a military item for civilians. This summer I gleefully tossed the Ralph Lauren two-button navy blazer into the bag for charitable donations. Always hated that jacket, reminded me of school days. Naturally, I'm breathlessly awaiting the arrival of the blazer. Altho I consider it a summer garment, it is dark enough that I can probably get away with wearing it three seasons, anyway. Actually, that'll make for another interesting thread...

Anyway, Graham said he has a bunch of digital pics of my fittings, and I'll try and attach them to another post.

So far, my experience has been fabulous, looking forward to continuing the significant sartorial progress my wardrobe is making this year.

Cheers!
a.

Thank you for the updates. I hope to commission something from either Dege or Raphael in the Spring and have really enjoyed hearing about your experience.

If you are able and inclined to, I'd love to see photos.

Welcome back a.

Coincidentally, I just commissioned a blue blazer in late September and am probably going to have Army Engineer buttons put on it.

--Sean

Dear Sir

The digital pics of your fittings would be of great interest to the members and those who are imagining a first bespoke commission. You are in excellent hands with Dege. Congratulations on your first order.

M Alden

Yes, I second Mr. Alden's comment. Pictures would be wonderful. I am also considering Dege for a suit during their next US trip.