The London Lounge

Pardon me, Matt Deckard, for stealing these from the Fedora Lounge.
On this forum, I have found that some people focus on details that aren't exactly essential for the daily wear-ability of a garment. Things like where to place a buttoniere loop on the back of a lapel, the drape of fabrics differing by a half ounce, or unlined sleeves will not have as large of an effect as how well an armhole is cut.
Everyone should know the importance of high cut and rounded arm holes/ armscyes. They are integral to comfort and mobility. Seeing as RTW suits usually have low-cut amrholes, bespoke may be the only way to obtain the correct fitting arm holes.

Please perform this "Matt Deckard Test" on all of your jackets to test their fit.
A vintage well-fitted jacket should look like this:




Notice how the jacket doesn't move with the arms. Please also note the swoop at the back of the armhole.

Now, a modern stylish, but poorly fitted jacket:




Notice the jacket riding up and the flaring lapels. Also, please note the "chicken wing" effect on the back of the jacket armhole.

Perhaps you are thinking "Who the hell stands around with their arms out like that?"
This is a simple demonstration of how a armhole can inhibit or help mobility. Ultimately, the armholes will affect the comfortof performing things like driving your car, grabbing and reaching for things, and maybe even ballroom dancing.
Try the arm test on any of your jackets. A large armhole may allow a jacket to come on and over easier, but the comfort of the jacket while being worn will be sacrificed.
Help rid modern clothing of this sartorial pandemic.

Thanks, Fedora Lounge and Matt Deckard for enlightening me and many others about the importance of armholes.


Ray


EDIT: Please see Matt Deckard's previous thread for more on armholes.
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... ht=armhole

I think the photos are a little misleading.... A double breasted will cause less lapel distortion than a SB when putting your arms to the sides. This is not to say that armhole size is not important, just that you should compare SB to SB or DB to DB to have a more accurate depiction.

I agree with T4 that you need to compare apples to apples. Here is a picture of me in one of my jackets that I took to answer a similar question on another forum. I would say that it is somewhere in the middle of your two examples (smaller holes rather than larger), but would love any comments from those with more experience on whether this armhole is sufficiently high for my build, or whether higher would be preferable. I realize the picture is not as well posed, but I was attempting to have a bit of fun taking it.

If the armholes on a jacket, are cut too large.
Is it possible to get them altered correctly?

Outrigger wrote:If the armholes on a jacket, are cut too large.
Is it possible to get them altered correctly?

The key consideration is whether there is spare cloth built into the jacket that might now enable raising of armholes. This is something a competent tailor can tell by feeling the jacket construction at what might be the critical areas for the task.

novice wrote: The key consideration is whether there is spare cloth built into the jacket that might now enable raising of armholes. This is something a competent tailor can tell by feeling the jacket construction at what might be the critical areas for the task.

Thank you for the reply, I'll be having a suit made on Savile Row later this year.
I'll seek the tailors advice on this matter. I have two suits that need attention, in this way.

Has anybody got an opinion on John Davis of Tobias-Davis Savile Row? I'm considering having a suit made by him. My concern is, will he cut my arm sythes properly so the shoulders behave themselves when I move?

Matt-

Your jacket is fabulous, I love the cloth and the cut. I also envy your predisposition for patch pockets.

aportnoy wrote:Matt-

Your jacket is fabulous, I love the cloth and the cut. I also envy your predisposition for patch pockets.

Thanks Andrew, it is one of my favorites. Hopefully we will have our standard clod summer and I will be able to wear it a few more times this year.

To paraphrase Rick Moranis as Dark Helmet, "I'm surrounded by armholes!"

Sorry, too much caffeine...