checked viyella shirt
Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 9:53 pm
I am totally in love with the newest addition to my wardrobe - a paterrned viyella shirt in a beautiful wool-cotton fabric that I found in an old shop whose windows look right on the small piazza in front of the Genoa Dome.
According to my shirtmaker, it took her almost twice the normal time to make the shirt due to the complications of matching patterns on two directions. I think she did a pretty good job balancing fit and patternmatching (the fit comes firts, therefore some degree of compromise is always necessary in patternmatching).
The picture above shows how yoke, back and sleeve match as well as possible.
Here the gussets are practically invisible - and still, at a closer look, they are there, distinct strips of fabric sewn on and perfectly blended into the pattern of the cloth underneath (sorry for the background, it is the burnt cloth on my ironign board). Also note the handsewn buttonholes and the shanked, handsewn, thick MOP buttons (more pics in my album).
If anyone remembers, I wrote in my very first post that my shirtmaker is the one and only still doing bespoke in Bucharest, if not really in Romania (to the best of my knowledge, and I've searched up and down) and she’s not getting any younger. I wrote at the time that I was seriously thinking of establishing a business to give this talent an opportunity to pass on her her knowledge to a young apprentice (which she doesn’t have now) and re-introduce the Romanians to the blessings of bespoke shirtmaking. Now I’m working on it and, with every item that she makes for me, she just proves it is well worth the effort (morally, at any rate).
According to my shirtmaker, it took her almost twice the normal time to make the shirt due to the complications of matching patterns on two directions. I think she did a pretty good job balancing fit and patternmatching (the fit comes firts, therefore some degree of compromise is always necessary in patternmatching).
The picture above shows how yoke, back and sleeve match as well as possible.
Here the gussets are practically invisible - and still, at a closer look, they are there, distinct strips of fabric sewn on and perfectly blended into the pattern of the cloth underneath (sorry for the background, it is the burnt cloth on my ironign board). Also note the handsewn buttonholes and the shanked, handsewn, thick MOP buttons (more pics in my album).
If anyone remembers, I wrote in my very first post that my shirtmaker is the one and only still doing bespoke in Bucharest, if not really in Romania (to the best of my knowledge, and I've searched up and down) and she’s not getting any younger. I wrote at the time that I was seriously thinking of establishing a business to give this talent an opportunity to pass on her her knowledge to a young apprentice (which she doesn’t have now) and re-introduce the Romanians to the blessings of bespoke shirtmaking. Now I’m working on it and, with every item that she makes for me, she just proves it is well worth the effort (morally, at any rate).