The London Lounge

I need new shoes, so I went shopping today. The saleslady was telling me things I don't think are right, so you guys are the ones to straighten me out.

I see glue between the sole and upper on the Allen Edmunds shoes I was thinking of. Does that mean they aren't very high quality? Do Alden shoes have glue?

My impression is that the welt is stitched to the upper and then separately through the sole (the stitching that is visible on the bottom).

So are shoes like suits: glue is bad bad bad?

Thanks. General comments on Allen Edmunds would be welcome as well. My choices in this town really seem to be Allen Edmunds, Alden, and Maganni.

All shoes use glue to attach the (outer) sole to whatever is beneath it; however, many shoes, including the goodyear welted variety also include stitches to hold the sole to the shoe. Which provides a greater percentage of the adherence is open to dispute. However, the goodyear welted construction has numerous other benefits, including strength and the ability for the shoe to be resoled.

In my experience, I prefer Alden to AE, and both to the Maganni. However, AE's can more often be found at a discount -- including at the AE factory stores and via e-bay -- and, of course, the relative attractiveness of the different companies' lasts and styles is subjective. Plus, AE has a range of different lasts (each model is made on only one design of last, unlike Edward Green, for example) which may provide a better fitting choice than Alden.

As is often written, it is important to try shoes on in person so you can find a last that fits your feet well. Doing a mail-order without knowing the appropriateness of the last can be risky. Once you find a well-fitting last, then you can perhaps search out better prices in the future.