The London Lounge

A dear friend of mine is getting married in the Amalfi Coast this June. I plan to be there, and given the proximity to Naples, I would love tp pay pilgrimge to one of the greatest sartorial centres of the world.

The problem is, I know very little about Naples. Unlike London's Savile Row, Jermyn Street, Burlington Arcade etc, little information is available about Naples' treasures.

I would love to order an unlined Neapolitan suit (if time permits), have some bespoke ties made etc. What else could I explore in this legendary city, and where can I find more information so that I could plan my time there?

Many thanks in advance.

Rubinacci, Marinella, Solito, Panico. Go to Tramontano if you want to have luggage made. Each one of the makers above has their own distinct style, so you should check them all out.

Also, you should go to Kiton to see their factory and museum. They have a bunch of the Duke of Windsors clothing there that they bought at auction.

Do you speak Italian? If not, your choices will be more limited. If I were you, I'd see a larger house like Rubinacci.

Dear Koleko,
A true Neapolitan bespoke "pilgrimage" requires huge resources of enthusiasm, time and perseverance.
Unless you are setting up for a pretty long Neapolitan holiday, or planning multiple visits to Napoli over the next few months, I'm afraid that you won't have the pleasure to have any suit made by one of the top local bespoke Maestros.
Unfortunately, Napoli’s precious sartorial treasures are extremely elusive, because unlike their Savile Row colleagues, our best tailors don’t speak English and don’t travel overseas to visit their foreign customers.

filangieri wrote:Dear Koleko,
A true Neapolitan bespoke "pilgrimage" requires huge resources of enthusiasm, time and perseverance.
Unless you are setting up for a pretty long Neapolitan holiday, or planning multiple visits to Napoli over the next few months, I'm afraid that you won't have the pleasure to have any suit made by one of the top local bespoke Maestros.
Unfortunately, Napoli’s precious sartorial treasures are extremely elusive, because unlike their Savile Row colleagues, our best tailors don’t speak English and don’t travel overseas to visit their foreign customers.

True, but it would be a shame to miss out completely on seeing these wonderful tailor shops.

Maybe we should make a list of craftsmen and their addresses in Napoli.

filangieri wrote:Dear Koleko,
A true Neapolitan bespoke "pilgrimage" requires huge resources of enthusiasm, time and perseverance.
Unless you are setting up for a pretty long Neapolitan holiday, or planning multiple visits to Napoli over the next few months, I'm afraid that you won't have the pleasure to have any suit made by one of the top local bespoke Maestros.
Unfortunately, Napoli’s precious sartorial treasures are extremely elusive, because unlike their Savile Row colleagues, our best tailors don’t speak English and don’t travel overseas to visit their foreign customers.

With this in mind, I have already begun planting with my wife the seed of an idea that our next family vacation should be in Italy with an extended stay in Napoli. I need to be patient as the process will take some time to develop, but if I have done my job, it will seem like her idea. Already she has suggested that we should someday start making trips to Italy to buy our daughters their clothing each year.

How very Machiavellian of you, Dopey!!

You've got to love how devious a bespoke addict will become to get a true Neopolitan suit.

Dear Filangieri,
Say that there were huge 'resources of enthusiasm, time and perseverance', that an extended stay in Napoli were feasible, and that the language were no barrier; where, in your expert opinion, should one look, beyond the obvious? If you don't mind.

Ma forse i Napoletani vogliono tenere i loro segreti! Sarebbe comprensibile. Spero che non sia una richiesta scortese, non vorrei spiare.

]Maestro Panico and her daughter speak little English.[/quote]

E.G. Cappelli, tiemakers--no less finely crafted than Marinella (which I love);

Salvatore Piccolo, bespoke shirtmakers.

My last adventure thru Naples involved a driver, who when admonished that he was going the wrong way on a one way street responded: "Sir, it only an advisory."

I too will be on the Amalfi coast, but in July, my recollection is that many shops will be closed, or is it primarily in August?

Finally, are the shops/artisans in any close proximity or scatterred?

Terry A. Teplitz

I too would be interested, especially in shirtmakers - andiamo in settembre.

I was in Naples last week. Arrived on Friday and left on Monday. My first stop was Marinella on Saturday morning. Met Maurizio Marinella who is most gracious. We spoke about travel and about Hong Kong where I am currently based. His shop is where I had my first encounter with bespoke Neapoitan jackets. His staff are all elegant dressed in typical Neapolitan suits or sports jackets, complete pleated unpadded shoulders. The cut is genourous on the shoulders, chest and back and the jackets have very high armholes. Besides discussing his ties, I asked him about where I could get a Neapolitan jacket tailored. Without thinking, Maurizio said, "Solito, he is the best at the moment". He was referring to Gennaro Solito. I believe he is on Via Toledo 256, but cannot be sure since I never made it to his atelier. Back to Marinella ties - they do printed silk ties with beautiful floral motifs best. Woven ties are not their forte. Indeed, one of the staff concedes that Charvet's woven ties are the best.

When I asked about RTW Neapolitam jackets his staff recommended I visit Spatarella on Via Calabritto. They carry a couple of Napoli jackets. Sartoria Partonopea is said to be from Attolini. Sartorio is said to be made by Kiton. These RTW jackets are quite dear. I went to try them on and managed to resist the temptation of these beautifully handmade jackets. They are soft, unpadded, and have the trademark pleated shoulders and small armholes. Canvassing is minimal and very soft. I felt the guts and did not detect any horsehair.

I also visited Franceso Merolla - the bespoke shirtmaker on Via Calabritto 20 (Palazzo Calabritto). It is non-descript atelier inside a courtyard off Via Calabritto. I met Francesco who was in a smart grey fresco suit,and asked him who made it. He said Solito. It is beautifully draped and has wide unpadded shoulders. He looked casual and very presentable all at once. I am very impressed with Solito's work. I would love to have one made if I go to Naples again. I was measured by Francesco but had to cancel my shirt order as I could not get a later flight on Monday. I was in his atelier Saturday AM and he was going to give me a fitting on Monday. The shirt itself would only be completed in 4-6 weeks. Francesco mentioned that it is the same wait for Solito's work. I liked what I saw in Francesco's shirt and his Solito suit. This is the sort of artisan that I would love to work with.

The other shops that one could see in Naples are Rubinacci, Filamore, Nino de Nicola, Monetti etc. If you find your way to Piazza de Martiri, all the shops that you should see are within a 10 minute walkng radius. I had no issues with safety. I would advice that you plan a visit that avoids Fridays, weekends and Mondays. Many stores are closed on Friday PM and Monday AM. All stores are closed on Sundays.

Yes, I agree that a list (tailors, shirtmakers, tiemakers, shoemakers) should be compiled to make it easier for those from out of town to visit and become acquainted