The London Lounge

As we don’t seem to have many threads on ties (and I am certain that most of us enjoy wearing them almost every day), I thought I’d start one under the pretext of a “specialty”: a seven-fold tie by Marinella, the renowned Naples bespoke tie maker (http://www.marinellanapoli.it). Why ".it" we may wonder? Because it is profoundly rooted in its Neapolitan tradition, no matter how 'international" (".com", that is ) many wanted it to be over time; the family-run business has repeatedly turned down hugely generous takeover offers from international giants in the world of "fashion". However, to the seven-figures takeover offers, they apparently continue to prefer their seven-fold tradition...

This tie is made of a printed, full and heavy, ribbed silk. The PC screen may be unable to render the depth, brightness and subtle contrast / compatibility of the colours: the light blue squares "jump forward" when the tie is worn with a similarly coloured shirt, but the small bright orange dots with a dark blue edge in the middle of the squares give this match a subtle contrast point. The small red stylized flowers, which also have an orange center, will always playfully (by both shape and colour) contrast with the rest ot the outfit. In the background, the rich, dark blue assures the perfect frame for all this contrast scheme, making for a "serious" tie after all.
As the fullness of the tie is achieved by folding the two layers of silk three times (so that a seven-fold shape is obtained - watch the creases: three narrow folds on each side, plus the central wide piece which we actually see when the tie is worn), it is heavier than the a wool-lined tie and hangs better. The narrower part in the middle which makes up the knot is much thinner, allowing for a decent knot. A few more pictures of this tie may be seen in my photo album.
I find it to be an exquisite piece of craftsmanship, being entirely handmade and the only kind of tie that can rightfully bear the tag reading “100% silk”.
As you may know, a brief look at the framed thank-you letters hanging on the walls of Marinella's minute shop in Piazza Vittoria will reveal names that say it all about the tradition and fame of this Neapolitan “cravattaio”. Marinella, indeed, is well-known not only for its beautiful and tasteful ready-made ties, but for the bespoke service it offers its clients (extra long for tall men, as wide or narrow as you fancy it, extra thick to make a full knot or no lining to make an inconspicuous one...)

Just the other day I had said that I did not recall ever seeing a self-tipped seven fold tie and remarked that it was unlikely because the knot would be too thick. Well . . . here it is, and the problem of a too thick knot is solved. Kudos to Marinella.

Two questions for you, Costi.
1. Was the tie made to order for you or does Marinella stock this item?
2. Do you see any benefit to the self tipping rather than gently folding and hemming the tips?

1. When I visited the Naples shop last September, there was a small wooden frame on the counter reading more or less like this: "Our esteemed customers are kindly asked to take note of the fact that the tie cleaning and repairing service may take up to six months" You can easily imagine the waiting time for getting a bespoke tie. They had an assortment of no more than 25-30 seven-fold ties in the only drawer that was clearly labelled "settepieghe". I liked the tie, the length was good for me (with a simple knot which is full enough given the thickness of the tie), the width was normal so I paid the bill (sigh...) and took it home.
2. I think the benefit is three-fold (as opposed to seven-fold):
a. I find it aesthetically more pleasing to see the right side of the silk fabric (especially since it is printed silk, not jacquard - so the wrong side looks pretty different) on all visible parts of the tie;
b. It gives more body to the tip of the tie, preventing it from curling in or out. I have seen seven-fold ties that are not tipped at all (as you described, the borders are folded back 0.5 cm and hemmed) which have a very unstable tip;
c. An extra layer of silk gives extra weight to the extremities of the tie, making for a better hang.

A visiting Japanese tourist I met was able to have Marinella complete his custom 7-fold ties the same day he ordered them.

Boo!... (as the Italians would put it). It sounds nothing short of a miracle... or a boastful Japanese tourist

Boo!... (as the Italians would put it). It sounds nothing short of a miracle... or a boastful Japanese tourist

I don't know if this would have made a difference, but he didn't buy just one. He bought four.

Costi,
While I like you new tie very much (beautiful, classic Marinella printed pattern !), I don’t believe that the 7 fold style, even if perfectly accomplished by Maurizio’s “sartine”, is truly representative of the family tradition.
Marinella makes limited quantities of bespoke and RTW 7 folds mainly because some of their customers (read: foreigners) ask for them, not because Maurizio believes that 7 folds are "in re ipsa" better than others.

filangieri wrote:. . . . Marinella makes limited quantities of bespoke and RTW 7 folds mainly because some of their customers (read: foreigners) ask for them, not because Maurizio believes that 7 folds are "in re ipsa" better than others.

Interesting! As Marinella certainly is one of the best-regarded furnishers in the world (and, from what little I've seen, with good reason), I'd very much like to know the thoughts of the family on cravats and other neckties.

RWS,
You should visit Maurizio's old, little family shop or at least get yourself a copy of the recently published "Marinella, Napoli" (the book is avaliable in Italian and English).

Thereafter, proceed to Piazza di Martiri for some caffe and people-watching!

Can you tell which is the 7 fold?

I like the 7 fold as a piece of art from silk.

But yes, while the 7 fold is beautiful and rare, the world's foremost tiemaker - Marinella, does not particularly promote them.

I was in their Napoli shop a few weeks ago; very small 7 fold collection, kept upstairs, not in the main shop, in the drawer, out of sight. And I was steered away from the 7 fold. But if you want one, they will sell it to you for E120.

I have never heard of a self tipped 7 fold; can't access costi's photo.

From the way the edge is rolled, I would guess that the striped tie is the seven-fold.

A tipped seven-fold is almost certainly not a true seven-fold but a so-called "double-four-fold." Most ties sold as "seven-folds" (at least in America) are in fact double-four-folds. For instance, all of the Kiton ties that I have seen for sale in the US are double-fours, even though they are billed as sevens.

I have one Marinella double-four, bought when Bergdorf first got the line. I did not even know what it was when I bought it, I just liked the pattern. Nowadays, Bergdorf only carries certain types of prints, all self-lined and self-tipped, but no sevens or double-fours.

I agree that the difference is purely psychological. I don't go out of my way to buy sevens or double-fours, but I don't shun them either.

The brown one on the bottom-right looks like a standard Marinella self tipped, lined tie.
The striped Marinella on the upper-left looks like a "sfoderata" a la Rubinacci (a partially unlined tie hand stiched on the hem like a silk pocket square).

I for one like some of their fabrics to be done in a seven fold. It has to have the right density and importantly, the weave (if a woven fabric) has to be neat and small enough so that the exposed threads at the back is not easily pulled.

And not only will Marinella do bespoke ties, but tweed caps, briefcases, and wallets as well!