Cloth Required for Various Items

[wmh2]

Gentlemen,

Could someone help me with the cloth required for various bespoke items - suit (2 and 3 pc, jacket, trousers, and vest)?

I was able to get a 3-pc suit and extra trousers from 5M of the POW flannel that Mr. Alden commissioned in 2005, but was only able to get a 2-pc suit from 4M of a recent chalkstripe that I acquired.

I understand that the pattern will have an impact, but rough guidelines would help with future cloth acquisitions. My RTW size is a 42R US.

Thanks for your advice.

[alden]

I was able to get a 3-pc suit and extra trousers from 5M of the POW flannel that Mr. Alden commissioned in 2005, but was only able to get a 2-pc suit from 4M of a recent chalkstripe that I acquired.

Just one question: was it the same tailor in both instances?

A 3 pc suit out of 4 meters of chalkstripe would be easy for a 42R.

A 3 pc suit and extra trousers from 5 meters of a Glen check is a challenge.

Something doesn't seem right here?

Michael

[wmh2]

Mr. Alden, the question you posed is the same one I had.

Different tailors for each. I am very happy with my 3pc suit from the POW flannel.

Any guidelines you have would help with future acquisitions. For example, given my experience with the POW flannel, I only ordered 4M of the recent tweed you commissioned for a 2pc suit with extra trousers. Now I am not sure if this was enough.

Thanks for your counsel.

[alden]

The more talented a tailor is and the more he knows how to fit you, the less cloth he will need. A good tailor will need less cloth for a client’s third or fourth suit then he would have needed for the first or second.

The existence of patterns will necessitate more cloth, but the real key is the cutter’s eye. The eye gets better with time and exercise.

So you see, it’s hard to come up with hard and fast rules about the amount of cloth required. Ask the tailor whose works please you how much cloth he will require. He knows your pattern better than anyone.

I would like to see you with 4.5m of the PoW for the 2 pc with extra trousers you have mentioned.

[Concordia]

I'm a bit taller than 42R, but the guidelines I got were (very conservatively) 2.5m for a jacket, 2m for trousers, allowing for DB, high backs on the trousers, large patterns, and slippage-- a consideration when you're handing the tailor a length of fabric that can't be reordered in case of accidents.

Interestingly, I also got an estimate of 4.5m for a 3-piece DB suit, but that was from a tailor who has my pattern down. Also, I'd imagine that squeezing a vest from between the trouser legs is no very big deal.

[TVD]

Fabric lengths required are very individual, depending on the tailor's cut. Best consult beforehand. 3.5m to 4m should usually be enough for a three piece suit for a slim 6ft. Trousers are about 1.5m, you may be able to get away with 4.5m for a 3p with additional trousers.

Many years ago, I always added at least 1m of allowance to the minimum requirements, just to be on the safe side. Once I noticed certain details on a suit that indicated the cutter had been extremely parsimonious with the cloth. Challenged, he replied: "But there was enough for another pair of trousers, it would have been sacrilege to waste it".