Thoughts on a versatile bespoke coat

[kolecho]

I would like to seek comments on a bespoke coat that I am thinking about. This coat is conceived with business travel in mind. To me, it means traveling light, versatility and robustness, while maintaining some level of elegance. When I travel, I cross timezones, and climate - one day it might be cold and dry, the next is wet and moderate.

To fulfil this need, I am exploring the option of a bespoke three-quarter length coat that ends just above the knee. It shall have raglan shoulders, a button fly front and zipper, a turndown shirt collar, slanted hip pockets to keep hands warm, and a centre vent in the back. The coat shall have an outer shell that is made of synthetic microfiber (the sort that is lightweight, warm and waterresisitant). A removable internal lining that is made of wool/cashmere mix adds warmth when needed. The other shell colour should ideally be navy blue, while the inner wool lining could be charcoal.

Besides your comments, I also have the following questions:
- Where can I source synthetic microfiber material?
- Would a traditional tailor who is used to working with natural cloth have any problem working with synthetic material?
- Am I better off getting one RTW? I have not seen one that fits the description.

Thanks in advance.

[smoothjazzone]

There are likely to be numerous issues with getting a coat like this from a traditional tailor -- some of which you yourself have highlighted.

Loro Piana may be the ideal candidate for a RTW coat like this. If pressed, they may even do a custom or MTM job like this. The other company that accepts such comissions is Kiton -- they may be very expensive and they may not want to work with microfiber. For the outer shell you could also consider some of the fabrics in the Loro Piana storm system book of fabrics -- in NY you can see that book at Brooks Brothers or at Loro Piana itself (store on Madison Ave and ground floor of Bergdorf Goodman).

[manton]

As the owner of a microfiber coat, let me just say that microfiber is not all it's cracked up to be. It is not as water repellant as promised and is quite expensive.

[TVD]

Tightly woven heavy gabardine achieves many of the tasks required without causing all that trouble. When I last looked, Aquascutum did rather beautiful MTM raincoats (including the detachable lining). The salespeople at the London flagship store is Regent Street seemed extremely experienced. And their coats are so much better than what Burberry currently produces.

Also, I saw some RTW trenchcoats in Rubinacci's London store. This would indicate they know their way round rainproofing. Maybe they could be of assistance.

[DD MacDonald]

It is pretty hard to have an entirely water proof garment - my goal would be to have a coat that takes wind and light rain. A good gabardine, whipcord, loden cloth, or cover cloth could achieve this. Adding some form of breatheable interlining would prevent or stay water intrusion, although the woolen "skin" might get fairly sodden.

I like this project - do any members have ideas on interlinings? I've not checked Loro Piana but they might have someting that would work

DDM

[Concordia]

Sounds like a SB fly-front raincoat is what you're aiming at. I have one from 20 years ago that I got at Burberrys-- buttons, of course, and no lining, but useful from 70s in the spring down to around freezing. Burberry currently does MTM (don't know how well), and if Aquascutum can do the same thing then you might be on your way. Certainly both firms have done detachable woolen linings for coats. Perhaps a tailor/shirtmaker might be able to make a second lining out of cashmere if you want something a little more luxurious.

[manton]

Oh, and how could I have forgotten: microfiber is a dirt magnet. It does not even to come into contact with dirt to get dirty. Dirt from the seven continents just settles on it, as if by magic.

[BirdofSydney]

What about something by Barbour? I know they do removable linings, I'm less certain as to whether they do anything in the dressier end of the spectrum?

[Mr. Rover]

Make sure if you get a removable lining, it is button-in. I have a trenchcoat with zip-in lining, and it gets quite "squiggly" for lack of a better adjective.

[hlambert]

Hermes make exactly the sort of coat you describe pretty much every Autumn collection. I have several and can recommend them for durability and quality of manufacture.

I also have a classic trenchcoat from Rubinacci which is also superb.

No tailor will successfully be able to make you a 'shell' layered coat as many of the necessary skills are not really tailoring but industrial processes.

[rjman]

Hermes make exactly the sort of coat you describe pretty much every Autumn collection. I have several and can recommend them for durability and quality of manufacture.

I believe Hermes' raincoats are at least in part made by Mackintosh, whom I would also suggest you consult.

[kolecho]

RJ,

Is Mackintosh a clothing brand or a type of cloth?

What do forummers think of Goretex coats like those made by Prada for the purposes I described?

[TVD]

Mackintosh is a company (see: http://www.mackintoshrainwear.com/index.html) that produces raincoats made using rubberised cotton. The name of the inventor became synonymous with the raincoat made from the rubber-coated fabric, or more generically any kind of raincoat.

In general, if you can find one that fits, chose RTW raincoats because their weatherproofing is superior to anything that bespoke can offer. Please do bear Manton's comment in mind that some artificial fibre can turn grubby very quickly.

I feel the choice between traditional styles (e.g. Ulster, Trenchcoat, Mackintosh) and more modern ones (e.g. the Prada you mentioned) is up to you. I personally find that the former are better suited to a formal or work context, whereas the contemporary ones work better in a casual setting. Wearing a coat with a zipper with a suit or jacket & tie does not work for me, I must admit.

[hlambert]

Traditional Weatherwear do make men's and ladies mackintoshes for Hermes, but the one's I am referring to are made in France by a Hermes subcontractor. They are made from a special nylon material with zip in cashmere liner and leather trim. I even have one with a zip in sheepskin liner which is ultra warm.

[Costi]

I would not recommend microfiber for a number of practical and aesthetic reasons. Please note that making waterproof garments is by no means an easy task. There are certain requisites both with regard to choice of materials and to construction and sewing techniques, which take time and experience to develop. In terms of materials I very much favour waxed cotton for its excellent water repelling properties, light weight and to some extent breathability. In terms of workmanship I think Barbour has indeed devoloped appropriate techniques (the Royal Warrant comes to confirm that). Tailors' first experience with making the Macintosh rubber cloth into coats, for instance (if the story told by Bernhard Roetzel in his book "The Gentleman" is true), ended up in disaster back in the 1880s because, although the rubber cloth itself was impermeable, water penetrated through the small sewing holes. Then Charles Macintosh himself found a way to insulate the stitching and started selling the authentic "Riding Mac".
It is true however that Barbour makes mostly country clothing. Nevertheless you see Barbours ever more often worn in the city because they are so practical and versatile (mine also has a detachable lining and I can wear it in winter, too, when it snows). It has become a classical and, if you chose a dark blue simple model (not too many pockets etc.) above the knee, I think nobody could blame you for wearing it in the city on a rainy day.