The London Lounge

I was wondering what the general consensus is regarding DB buttoniere lapel holes- one hole or two?
I have 2 vintage DB jackets that have them on both lapels, but on other jackets I've seen it only on the left, and in rare instances, only on the right.
Any preferences?

Mr. Rover wrote:I was wondering what the general consensus is regarding DB buttoniere lapel holes- one hole or two?
I have 2 vintage DB jackets that have them on both lapels, but on other jackets I've seen it only on the left, and in rare instances, only on the right.
Any preferences?

I get them on both lapels as much out of habit as anything else. I have never made a study of the issue and suspect my habit could have been as easily formed the other way. Now, though, it is fixed.

I seldom wear double-breasted suits; but, when I do, I have a hole cut in each lapel. That looks better to me aesthetically, and it is more sensible historically as well.

Now that I think of it, having a buttonhole on each lapel of a double-breasted suitcoat also lets wearing a boutonniere look less studied, even insouciant, because of the clear imbalance that it brings; and I like that, too.

Both lapels for me, please.

Always both for me, too. One just looks unbalanced.

I like them on both.

Speaking of boutonnieres, I never see anyone wear a flower on their topcoats anymore.

I like them on both sides too...

When already discussing the question of a buttoniere then I might add a question myself:

What do the gentlemen of the LL view as the appropriate placement for the loop on the back of the lapel to properly hold the flower in place? After a short discussion with my tailor we decided to put it ca. 1.5 cm vertically below the (angeled) lapel hole. Would a placement elsewhere be a better choice as this would keep the flower at an angle as well? Is this purely a matter of preference (as buttoniere's sadly are themselves in today's world) or does any unwritten rule apply here as well?

Thank you in advance for your replies which make this forum, excuse me, lounge so educational and interesting.

The placement sounds good to me, save that I've found 2.0-2.5 cms. to be a more useful drop. Of course, as I seldom wear a boutonniere, you may wish to weigh my observation accordingly.

Thank you for the quick reply, as I started to wonder about this myself and thought that at this point I could still change the placement. I might do that if more people agree on this issue. Knowing that RWS is a knowledgeable man I apparently do not have to worry too much though.

I plan on wearing a buttoniere (as another question: Buttoniere is simply a 'fancy' synonym for flower in the lapel hole?) mostly with a dinner jacket for which I see it almost as an essential item for anyone wishing to propagate his sartorial knowledge. Hence the question came to my mind in the first place.

Re buttonholes:

Recently had a chat about that with Poole. Traditionally two on a DB, one on a SB. One on a tailcoat (although it is a legacy DB, I was surprised to be told, just one). Currently more and more clients ask for just one on a DB, so many in fact, that it is becoming a standard configuration. Perish the thought.

Re keeper:

Well, I only use the damn thing (always there when you don't need it, and every time I am looking for it I am wearing an old coat without one) at weddings or during the British Legion's Poppy appeal. The placement is standard about 2cm down, but this depends on the length of stalk attached to your buttoniere. I would go with 2-2.5cm running parallel to the hole.

Hanseat wrote:. . . . Buttoniere is simply a 'fancy' synonym for flower in the lapel hole? . . . .

Yes. When I was a schoolboy (and I'm not that old), one still occasionally heard the English equivalent, "button flower". Because we use "buttonhole" instead of boutonnière, the Anglicized French word is a bit more useful than "button flower", as boutonnieres comprise all natural decorations in the buttonhole: a tiny bouquet or a sprig of heather, perhaps, instead of a single flower.

I entirely agree with TVD's suggestion that the keeper be placed parallel to the buttonhole. I think that the boutonniere will look less studied; and, were one to employ a nice little silver vase behind the lapel, the lip won't appear crooked at the buttonhole.

Now I am wondering where one may acquire such a little silver vase for the buttoniere (thank you for your definition)? Is it possible to buy one through regular retail channels anymore, save for a silversmith, or does one have to look through eBay and antique shops?

Some of the lounge members have some surprising knowledge and resources. One of them might have better suggestions, but here are some that you can purchase new:

http://www.englishcreekgardens.com/tussie2.htm

I believe such a vase is to be worn on the outside of the lapel rather than the underside.