The London Lounge

Dear Gentlemen,

It was with delight that I found a 'bespoke' tailor (I use quotation marks because we know what true bespoke it) where I live, in Leeds:

http://www.citikey.com/static/images/bu ... 087455.jpg

quite a lovely old-fashioned shop and Mr Wilson, who still does the cutting at the age of 80, has been in the trade for around 40 years.

Long story short, I had my first pair of made to measure trousers and I am quite happy with them, although they still need a small alteration.

I requested that no belt loops were to be made, and so it was. But what I would like your advice on is this (you will pardon my poor explaination, but I am not english): the place above the fly, where you fasten the waist, has a hook, of course, because I did not want any buttons to be visible. But the two parts overlap as I drew:



Do you think they should be the second way? or it is just a matter of personal choice? furthermore, I noticed, but I might be wrong, that the fist way (not too much fabric overlap) prevents it from get 'curly' when you sit down for a while.

Any thoughts will be, as usual, much appreciated.
Best Regards,

Carlo La Duca
Leeds

Like you, I prefer trousers that have no belt loops to have a waistband extension. It mimics the overlap of the belt (though in the other direction) and helps the trouser front appear balanced.

Thank you for your answer, Manton. Any thoughts on the amount of such overlap? I believe the tailot will have to change all the waist part of the trousers altogether, isn't it?
Thank you.

2.5" to 3" is about right.

To add a waistband extension to finished trousers, the tailor will have to recut the left half of the waistband, which of course will only be possible if he has enough cloth left over or can get a small amount from the same dye lot.

Carlo:

The version your tailor has constructed is interesting. My preference, like manton's, is for a larger extension. But, I don't think there is anything wrong with what your tailor has devised, and I suspect if it were seen more frequently we would all think nothing of it. I say that if you like it, leave it as is, and give the matter no more thought.

He has surely madea mistake. Without an extension band they look unfinished to me.

Require a bit of effort to correct but you should insist he does.

DFR (and the other Gentlemen as well):

What do you mean by 'extension band': is it something the tailor should add to the trousers as they are now, or it is basically a lengthening of what is already there, resulting in a seamless effect and a larger amount of overlap of the fabrics?
Thank you.

An extension to the waistband is part of the left side piece of the waistband. I suppose one could be sewn on, but the "right" way to do it is so that it runs flush with the waist band over the fly.