The London Lounge

As I mentioned on another thread, I'm about to get a tailor in Hong Kong to make me a suit. I used them before when I was out there and they were excellent - Johnson & Co, who have for years kitted out military customers, and who are quiet, hard-working, helpful and good at what they do. And don't hassle people like the Indians around the Star Ferry.

Realise it's not Saville Row... but once I've made my fortune I'll go there...

Anyway, I'm planning to get a two button pinstripe suit. But there are a whole host of options - parallel or tapered trousers, sloping or horizontal pockets, a ticket pocket, pleats or no pleats, turn ups.

Now one of the joys of getting a tailor-made suit is that you can have it how you want it. But presumably there are some no-nos. Also, it would be good to know what the conventions are for a two-button English pinstripe suit (what kind of trousers, for example) before breaking any of these conventions.

Does anybody know of a website that outlines these conventions. Or can anybody suggest what I should ask for with regard to my suit.

Much as the tailor is excellent, they are Chinese and mostly fit Americans, so I'm not entirely sure they would know of the conventions that exist.

The rules here are common sense, i.e., no plus-fours with suit trousers. It's up to you whether you want high back brace trousers or belted trousers. (Though if they are used to cutting for Americans, that suggests they have far more experience making the latter.) I would get them slightly tapered; maybe a two inch drop from the knee to the bottoms. Cuffs also are up to you. I always get them. If you are particularly short, or are going for a "minimalist" look you might want to avoid them.

Straight pockets are more appropriate for business suits. Most LL members will also avoid ticket pockets on such suits.

Ticket pocket being the second (above the "normal" pocket) outside pocket on the right side of the coat? It simply looks like a second outside pocket on that side?

Gus wrote: But there are a whole host of options - parallel or tapered trousers...

Bell-bottoms, my good man.

But seriously, the traditional position is either two forward pleats on each leg, or none at all. I greatly prefer flat fronts for everything, but especially for pinstripes, so the elongating effect is not at all compromised.

Cuffs are, in my humble opinion, worn much more often than is desirable. They are a less formal style than plain ends, and once again break up the line of your trousers.

I would go for high-waisted, braces back trousers, with a very slight taper and a negligible break. Two straight pockets. Waist suppression, figure permitting.

I wish you all the best,

Eden

Most English tailors would probably advise you to avoid turn-ups on a pinstripe suit. I think you'd also find that single pleats would be just as commonly seen in England as double, and I certainly think that the former look more elegant. Ticket pockets and sloping pockets are a matter of personal preference but they lend an air of informality and thus many prefer them on tweed coats rather than on their "city" suits.