The London Lounge

Hello - I have read that edging tape is used at the hems of trouser legs to protect them from wear and to add extra weight so that the trousers will drape well. The tape protrudes slightly from the bottom of hem. Is this a common practice, uncommon or used only when requested? It seems like an elegant detail. What do you think?

It’s common practice in Continental Europe, but, for whatever reason, hasn’t caught on in Anglo-Saxon countries.

Just request it when you have a pair of trousers hemmed.

bengal-stripe wrote:It’s common practice in Continental Europe, but, for whatever reason, hasn’t caught on in Anglo-Saxon countries. . . .

Perhaps because many of us find it unsightly. However, a bit of tape (or, better, a strip of self fabric) placed inside the trouser leg a few millimeters above the hem gives some protection from wear and is not visible to wearer or observer -- that’s something that’s been done on some of my trousers and which I try to remember to ask for.

A particularly good idea on winter weight pants where they tend to rub on a rougher boot surface. Generally, all my pants have this.

RWS wrote:However, a bit of tape (or, better, a strip of self fabric) placed inside the trouser leg a few millimeters above the hem gives some protection from wear and is not visible to wearer or observer

It should actually extend 1mm or so below the fold of the hem. This way the tape (and not the trousers) gets worn and frayed. Of course the tape can easily be replaced.

It’s common practice in Continental Europe, but, for whatever reason, hasn’t caught on in Anglo-Saxon countries.

This may be a common practice in some countries for RTW but you won't find any rated bespoke trouser makers in Italy adding tape to a trouser cuff. It is a RTW practice only. So Italian bespoke makers are just like their SR counterparts in this regards.

If trousers are cut properly and are suspended by braces, belt or straps they should not be down rubbing very hard on leather shoes tops or anything else. It helps if you wear your trousers with little to no break. Of course,if you wear then down swabbing the pavement, you will need to change the tape a few times a month.

The New York tailors that I have used add some tape to the inside that is not visible at all from the outside. I'm not sure what purpose if any it serves, but I like it all the same. I would not like it if I could see it, however.

The tape is normally used on RTW trousers for a simple reason. RTW trousers do not provide their wearer a perfected fit. Therefore they can travel around a bit, up and down. They can easily wind up scrapping on the Interstate.

Empirical data from my own wardrobe suggests that tape is unnecessary. Scores of bespoke trousers worn for a few decades have never shown a sign of wear at the bottom edge of the cuff. On the other hand, the cuff on my one pair of corduroy RTW trousers is worn a bit despite the presence of tape.

It’s probably not a coincidence.

Dege and Raphael both affix the fabric tape on my trousers as a matter of course - I have never discussed it with either, but it appeared nonetheless. (It is not visible from the exterior.)

This may sound completely crazy and may even be slightly off-topic -- but I have on occassion requested that the tailor use a particular color collar melton in the coat. For example, a nice French blue with brown suits. In such instances, I have in the past requested the tailor to use a ring of the same melton fabric in the trouser hem to provide any wear and tear benefits (I agree with Alden above that such may be unnecessary) plus some additional weight at the cuff (which may not be needed either).

Neither is visible under normal circumstances -- although the blue fabric in the trouser hem does become slightly visible when I am sitting cross-legged. The functionality is really not the point -- but knowing that they are there and seeing a small splash of color when sitting never fails to produce a smile on my face .

I do agree that this is a detail that really seems to have no redeeming value these days,
I have never suffered wear worth the mention.
While in theory, the tailor is perhaps correct given that I live in a Nordic climate and boots are a reality of life for several months a year.

The tailor I use lines these cuffs with the same fabric the pants are made from, so there is little chance anyone would notice they are there.