The London Lounge

I am going to try a new tailor, and was wondering what cloth weight to use to test his skills.

I have narrowed it down to two weights - 8oz or 11oz. Which would you suggest as good test of a tailor's skill, and why?

Thanks in advance.

kolecho wrote:I am going to try a new tailor, and was wondering what cloth weight to use to test his skills.

I have narrowed it down to two weights - 8oz or 11oz. Which would you suggest as good test of a tailor's skill, and why?

Thanks in advance.

If you wish to test the man's skills, I suggest that you use the lighter cloth, since it is so much easier to botch; and if you wish to offer yourself a reliably useful new suit, I advise you to give the new guy a heavier cloth to work. Either reward yourself by helping to guarantee a successful outcome, or stage a dry run which may end in costly failure. I like to start a relationship on hopeful ground...the test can come later, when you have measured your tailor's ability.

I somehow feel (although this may be a prejudice) that it is easier to find good cloth at a reasonable price in the 11oz range. So the experiment may not be too expensive. However, as it lasts longer than the 8oz, if a disaster, the consequences will be with you for longer.

I get the impression - from one of your other posts - that you'll be using a Hong Kong tailor. The tailors in Hong Kong are expert at working with lightweight cloth and I wouldn't recommend that you opt for the 11 oz just because it is "easier" for the tailor.

It is true that there are Hong Kong tailors who do a swell job with lighter fabrics, but cloth in the 11-ounce range is nonetheless more forgiving. The important consideration here should be the ultimate use for the suit in question. If Kolecho is going to wear the thing in warm climes, then clearly the lighter cloth is a better choice; if a 9-month-of-the-year suit is required, I should go with the heavier fabric. Again, tests are idiotic when a fellow is expending capital--or am I just being too Scottish about the project? One point cannot be argued: success beats the bloody hell out of failure! And Kolecho, please note that my single worst suit is an abortion created by a tailor lauded all over the blinking place for his skills. The cloth? Dormeuil 8-ounce Super 150. I loathe waste! In addition, know that the very tightly woven lightweight Supers breathe like plastic garbage bags. Nothing like a well balanced plain-weave of reasonable weight and middling thread count....

I am planning to use either the 8oz Woodhouse 120s cloth, or the 11oz Woodhouse 150s cloth pictured in my other post. The 8oz is a nailhead and seems porous when held against light. The 11oz is also quite breathable for its weight. Not much between them when it comes to breathability.

I could opt for the heavier weight because of pure utility - it is winter now, and I could use the extra insulation. That coupled with that fact that heavier cloth is more forgiving might be the way to go for my first suit with A-Man Hin Cheong.

I have heard mixed comments about A-Man. Would those who have used them in Hong Kong care to chime in on A-Man's bespoke suits?

A-man is perfectly good, as far as Hong Kong suits go. Decent workmanship, and they do pretty will with fit/comfort. A few cues that say "Hong Kong," or "Not Savile Row," but they were good value when I bought a few suits ('97-98, when they were about $700 US.)

I found their styling somewhat uninspiring, however, and they never quite nailed the jacket length or the trouser cut. If they'd done a little better than that, I would have bought a few just to wear to the office on quiet days. But they didn't, and we went over to business casual back in the late 90s. Perhaps giving them a really good suit to copy before a first fitting would be preferable.

They also don't travel to the US AFAIK, so any repeat business is going to be by mail. They are OK about arranging this, but be sure they have your pattern exactly as you want it first. If you aren't in HK on a regular basis, you would probably be better off with Chan or Kilgour entry level for good Chinese workmanship.

In the United Kingdom an 8oz will sort the tailors out - including more than one on Saville Row who can only understand a 14oz worsted.

In Hong Kong either is a totally workaday cloth and most will reward any commission with an excellent suit.