Why buy RTW at all?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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zjpj
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 4:00 am

After a recent personal dilemma over whether to buy a particular RTW suit, I've really been wondering whether in general, if there really is ever a reason to buy RTW.

I found a RTW suit that I quite likde and was considering buying it for a long time. It was less expensive than a bespoke suit, of lower quality and obviously less individualized fit, but it was nevertheless quite nice with great style. I finally decided not to buy it. Despite liking it a lot, I just knew that it would never be perfect. The same goes for bespoke shoes. I don't need any shoes. Why get any, then, that don't fit me perfectly and look exactly the way I want them to?

Assuming there is no void in your wardrobe that simply needs to be filled, is there any reason ever to buy RTW again?
TVD
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:24 am

Once you are used to bespoke fit, you cannot go back. At least this dilemma does not pose itself to me, because I am too thin to find anything even remotely fitting in RTW.

Secondly, the pocket arrangements will drive you mad. I guess all of us have the same pockets on all coats (unless the jacket is for a specific purpose such as shooting). Any difference and you will be forever grabbing the non-existent lighter, or forgetting your card case because its usual place does not exist.

RTW can never be more than a brief affair. Bespoke should ideally be a happy marriage. Don't fall for the wrong girl.
bry2000
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 5:22 pm

I don't completely agree. RTW does achieve a certain purpose and if you are not a difficult RTW fit, going the RTW route will be less expensive, less time consuming, and perhaps less frustrating. While waiting two years for that infamous self-proclaimed English "master tailor"/con artist/scum bag to complete my bespoke suit, I went out and purchased a RTW RLPL suit. I just needed a new suit and I could not wait any longer for the bespoke suit to be made. Also, I doubted the bespoke suit would ever be delivered. The fit of the RTW is not terrible, but also not entirely what I was looking for. But the RTW suit fits better and looks a lot better than the English bespoke suit I ultimately received (again, after two years and countless fittings).
zjpj
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Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:12 pm

bry, I'm getting two things from your post:
1) You weren't happy with the "Savile Row Master Tailor's" work
2) You needed a suit and couldn't wait the turnaround time.

But without these factors, I don't see why you would buy a RTW suit. If you are confident with your tailor's abilities and don't need anything right away, why buy RTW? Of course it is cheaper. Perhaps you could buy two or even three pairs of Edward Green RTW for the price of bespoke. But I'd get much more pleasure, personally, out of that one pair of bespoke than having the variety of three reasonably nice shoes. This is particularly so when you already have a pretty decent selection of clothing.

A third factor, perhaps an extension of the first, that you post seems to be suggesting, is that at least with RTW you are sure of what you're getting. You try it on, you see how it fits. There's no nervous anticipation. There is something to that, particularly if you are not confident in your tailor. But, again, if you find a tailor you do believe in, I think this is less of a problem.
BirdofSydney
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Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:17 am

I take the initial argument in the spirit in which it is intended, and cannot help but conclude that ultimately you are correct, sir.

I say ulitmately, as there will inevitably come a point at which you will see RTW suits that take your fancy, but your mind will turn only to how your tailor could do the same style but infinitely better. This takes not only resources of course, but also a good working relationship with an excellent tailor. I myself can pull together the former, but am yet to find the latter. I am not adverse to paying double RTW prices for bespoke, but would rather want my money's worth.

Buying well-made RTW until I move to a city more accomodating to my tastes makes sense - I can see exactly how something sits on me before I shell out the hard earned, little is left to chance. I buy roughly one new suit every six months, and within that time frame can usually find at least one that I like. There is only one prominent Brisbane bespoke tailor, and while undoubtedly talented, he cuts a very generous and somewhat sack-like suit, which would simply look appalling on me. I am yet to find a supplier of MTM who shares my obsessiveness for details, and I fear that without intermediate fittings they would make an egregious error which would irritate me until Judgment Day.

There is one house in Melbourne which does a quasi-RTW, sending your measurements to be made up in Italy, but leaving certain parts unfinished, to be stiched here after a fitting. This would hopefully allow for things like waist suppression to be perfected.

Then there is, of course, Mr. Mahon's impending visit...so much to think about.

Best,

Eden
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