The London Lounge

How do the members feel about a 4x1 double-breasted dinner jacket?



I am not particularly fond of one buttoned closures on double-breasted items as I feel there is a loss of line.

I shall presume that that picture has been mirrored, otherwise both the closure and the pocket are on the wrong side!

I think the style works best, if at all, on a DJ. Would be a bit silly for daywear. That picture actually looks to be a 6x1, if the buttons are where I think they are, but it's too fuzzy to be sure. I think a 4x1 would be preferable to a 6x1. A 6x2 would look good with peak lapels, but 4x1 for a shawl collar (am I right in thinking that Tautz lapel is the proper term here?). I suppose you could have a shawl collar 4x2 (well, the line would be 4x2, though I assume you wouldn't do up the bottom button?).

Best,

Eden

Now that you mention it, yes, I think the photo has been mirrored.

I've seen a one buttoned closure for daywear, worn by the Baron Alexis de Rede, which I did not like because of the loss of the line.

Astaire's lapel seems to be a proper peak lapel rather than a Tautz lapel. The Tautz looks best, I feel, on single-breasted models of jackets.

A 4x2 for a shawl lapel would be rather nice, reminiscent of a smoking jacket.

That photo of Astaire looks like a 6x2 rolled to the bottom button as he was fond of wearing this style. See the following thread for a more complete discussion

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=204

I would have liked to see the notch a little higher on the chest. But look at the pochette tucked with prefect nonchalance.

I have a 4 button DB dinner jacket, which I like a lot.

Mr. Alden,

That was the very thread I had in the back of my mind! It is of great inspiration, as confirming that the DB is not the preserve of the tall or the grand man. I note that the Duke is wearing a 4x2 lounge suit rolled to the bottom button on the first page (or is it a very subtle 4x1?), with no pocket flaps, furthermore. I dare say, it would not be my preference for daywear, although a lovely cut for the evening.

I think, in fact, the slender DB with waist suppression is a wonderful thing, especially without the inner flap buttoned, as it reduces the impact of my major sticking point with the DB, namely the straight bottom edge which bisects the body vertically. I've never warmed to the look.

Cheers,

Eden

Mr.Alden,

I checked the original source photo, and from all appearances it seems a 4 x2 as opposed to a 6 x 2. The buttonholes seems to be of the slightly controversial keystone variety.

As for the notion of a double-breasted item in general, I feel they look much better with waist supression; rather that they lose all aesthetic function without waist suppression as it is inherently a difficult shape to balance.

I have seen Baron Alexis de Rede in slightly loose 4 x 1 double-breasted suits, and they justify my above comments as the gorge also becomes affected.

I think 4x1, to look good, must have a keystone button stance. The keystone on a 6x1 looks, to me, much less good. The only pics I have ever seen in which I like it are of Astaire. And it has at least as much to do with how the coat is cut than with the button stance. I think one essential trick is to set the buttons closer together on the horizontal. When they are spread out across the chest, the effect is less pleasing to the eye.

manton wrote:I think 4x1, to look good, must have a keystone button stance. The keystone on a 6x1 looks, to me, much less good. The only pics I have ever seen in which I like it are of Astaire. And it has at least as much to do with how the coat is cut than with the button stance. I think one essential trick is to set the buttons closer together on the horizontal. When they are spread out across the chest, the effect is less pleasing to the eye.

I think Tom Wolfe wears the keyston 6x1 very well too, and his frame is not large.

This is my 4x1 in midnight blue. I now only wear it wtih turndown collar, as is more appropriate.

This looks like a 4x2 DB.