The London Lounge

The members of thelondonlounge chapter made a field trip to the new premises of Rubinacci in London. The members had the good fortune to be guided by the amiable Sgr. Gennaro Luca Rubinacci and other members of the family.



Gennaro Luca Rubinacci is pictured below in a model Neapolitan two button jacket with the "spalla camicia." ( More analysis to follow.) Do you see the waterfall?



In the londonlounge, we prefer to post pictures of jackets on people and not dummies. It’s the only way to see the fit, and in this sequence one sees front and back perfectly well.



Here are the first photos of the shop, one whose atmosphere is particularly pleasant, and well furnished with articles of good taste.



Its not just londonlounge New York chapter members who get to have all the fun. The London chapter members had a nice tour of the shop by the very elegant Mrs. Rubinacci and daughter.



The famous linen DB jacket is now on display in London. This unfortunate picture does not do the beauty justice.



The traveling tailors travel from Naples to measure and fit Rubinacci’s clients in London. Here they are at work on a pattern.



There are plenty of lovely ties, pocket square and other accessories on display.



I would like to extend my thanks to the Rubinacci family for a very entertaining and informative visit to their new premises. The londonlounge London chapter members had a great time and wish Rubinacci the best of luck in their new venture.

What a tastefully appointed store.

I generally have a preference for a more structured coat, but I have to say that the two-button Neapolitan jacket looks very nice indeed. This Lounge is changing my taste in clothes.........

Cheers for the photos, Michael.

Lovely store. I wish the family well.

Michael, I wish that our East Coast Chapter had you as a photographer!

I would assume that this is the first branch operation of a serious, Italain tailor in London. (I am eliminating from consideration both Brioni and Kiton which have become international brands with many branches.) How does the family feel about entering the London market, the home of Savile Row? Did the firm do the visiting tailor routine before establishing its London store?

I love the pictures of Sgr. Rubinacci. The one in the mirror exhibits the Neapolitan cut perfectly. It almost looks like two different jackets, very snug in front, lots of room in back. It really is ingenious how they have a way of creating movement and freedom, while presenting such a trim face to the world.

One thing I do not love, is the height of the barchetta pocket. I prefer mine in my chest, and not almost in my armpit. His, however, does add a bit to the lengthening look of the Neapolitan silhouette. I am also surprised to see his pants so long. I am used to seeing a lot of sock from soutern Italians.


Most importantly, it appears that the dog statue on the table is a pug. If so, this would show an incredible amount of good taste and refinement.

I love everything, but the ties are deserving of special mention.

alden wrote:
Its not just londonlounge New York chapter members who get to have all the fun.

Dear Mr. Alden,

As someone who is neither in NY chapter or London chapter, I can tell you that these pictures are a blessing. Like the pervious ones from Charvet store... these are equally remarkable. I hope the store does well in business.

Also Mr. Alden... I have a question. Would there be any difference in ordering a bespoke suit from London shop as opposed to the original one in Naples? I would assume that there would be differences... if so what will they be primarily (fabrics, cutting, sewing)?

BTW even though the picture of the DB jacket in the window turned out bad... I still can see the jacket lines and like it very much.

sincerely
etutee

Thank you for those beautiful pictures, Mr. Alden!

I absolutely love those 'manica a camicie' shoulders. I posted some pictures of these kinds of shoulders a while ago in this topic.

Etutee wrote:I have a question. Would there be any difference in ordering a bespoke suit from London shop as opposed to the original one in Naples? I would assume that there would be differences... if so what will they be primarily (fabrics, cutting, sewing)?

If I could be bold enough to attempt an answer, which I'm sure Michael or others present could elaborate on or correct if I misunderstood.

As I understand there should be relatively little difference. Rubinacci uses mostly (or all?) British fabrics, including a wonderful range of fabrics of 20 and 30 years old. The cutting is done in London with imported Neapolitan cutters. The sewing is all exported back to Naples or Milan. Given that scenario, except for customer demand, I can't see that there would be a significant difference between the London and the Naples completed article.

Whittaker makes a good point about the range of vintage cloth in the Rubinacci store. They have some absolutely stunning cloth, unlike anything I've seen being produced today.

I understand that Rubinacci in Naples is an even greater treasure trove of cloth.

What a treat! Thanks for the photos.

Mr. Alden, as always, great post.

I would like to extend my thanks to the Rubinacci family....

And I would like to extend my thanks as well. The Rubinacci family was very generous and gracious to take you on a tour of their shop as well as allow you to take pictures of their shop.

If I may ask two questions: What is the double-breasted jacket in the first photo made of? And what are the prices for a bespoke suit? I'm thinking that a favorable exchange rate of pound to euro and that most of the work is done in Italy would offer lower prices than the prices found on Savile Row. What are your thoughts.

A wonderful post and photos. I wish the Rubinaccis great success in this endeavor. WRT the women, it is very unusual to see Neopolitan women not well "put together". Even in jeans things are just so.

Alden, BTW, who made the jacket for you and what kind of fabric is it. It looks like a wonderful odd jacket

How does the family feel about entering the London market, the home of Savile Row? Did the firm do the visiting tailor routine before establishing its London store?

Your question brings to mind a story Mr Rubinacci told me about the family business that was founded under the name “London House” in Naples by Gennaro Rubinacci in the early 1930s. Mr. Rubinacci sent one of his cousins to live in London. His job was to report about the trends in London style so that they could be reproduced in Naples with English and Scottish fabrics; and with the particularities of the Neapolitan tailoring traditions. So the influence of Savile Row tailoring was present from the very beginning in the business. This fact, said Mr. Rubinacci, made opening a store in London, source of such inspiration over the years, a very gratifying experience.

The selection of vintage English fabrics is impressive. I now find out that not all the vintage cloth was sent to Japan. There is enough to supply the London store as well.

The tailors did not travel to London before the opening of the store.

I was led to understand that the tailors will travel between Naples and London with the tailoring work to be done in Naples.

From reports I have received, there seems to be a difference between the Milan and Naples works as the tailors used are not the same. To be confirmed...

http://www.marianorubinacci.it/tradizio ... ext=london

alden wrote:From reports I have received, there seems to be a difference between the Milan and Naples works as the tailors used are not the same. To be confirmed...

Uppercase, who has patronized the Milan atelier but not the original in Naples, has said as much. i would like to read his thoughts.