The London Lounge

Can anyone describe the style of Steven Hitchcock's jackets? I am 5' 8" in height and stocky build. I do not look good in the traditional classic Savile Row shaped jacket. I prefer a more toned down continental cut, without a very flaired bottom to the jacket aka Gieves etc. However, I like more natural shoulders. Steven Hitchcock tells me that he can make me a jacket in a more continental cut, softer than the usaual stiff Savile Row affairs. I am due to visit him this Monday. Any more info to help me decide which tailor to consider would be much appreciated?

Steven makes jackets that are softer than the SR norm, but more shaped than the Andersen & Sheppard school. Roped shoulders, slightly more structured fronts, different approach to lapel shape, but the very classic A&S silhouette from the armpits on down.

I find that A&S and their alumni (e.g., Steed, Mahon) cut shoulders that drape over one like a cashmere sweater. Hitchcock's jackets provide a little more support from below and give a little lift under the arms, if that makes any sense. He does a good single-breasted jacket, and the pictures on LL's Photojournal are pretty fair representations of what he's done for me and others.

More generally, he's a nice guy who tries hard to do right. Doesn't know everything yet, but learning fast and quite talented. Worth a look.

While you're poking about, take a look at Kilgour. They're obviously mainstream SR, but they tend to cut slightly more relaxed shoulders than some on the Row also and make a very clean jacket front. John McCabe is one of their top cutters, and is brilliant. Denman& Goddard, whom Steven rents from, are more traditional yet (one of the cutters was from Huntsman), but they do good work and are nice guys. Say hello to David Cook for me if you run into him.

Concordia, could you also please describe the Mahon silhouette in a bit more detail? I do not have access to the photojournal for some reason and as such cannot compare and contrast the relative styles. I am meeting Thomas on Friday and am very much looking forward to it. Thanks

Interesting question-- I also see Thomas on Friday. His first completed work for me is still in the post. But if you check his blog (www.englishcut.com ) and his other website (www.thomasmahon.co.uk ) , you'll see a good sample. What's there is consistent with what I've slipped on in the fitting room. Soft shoulders (which vary depending on the coatmaker he uses), some waist suppression, large bellies on the DB lapels that swoop upward as you reach the top. SB is a little less egregiously A&S-- straighter lapels that don't collapse-- but like A&S, a soft, light, and slightly trim fit.

He has posted on Englishcut and here a discussion of "straight" and "crooked" coats. I'm not sure I would recognize such from the patterns, but I would guess it's fair to say that if he sells straight jackets, Steven Hitchcock sells crooked ones.

Thanks for that Concordia. When you say Steven Hitchcocks shoulders are roped, and have more support from below, do you mean that the 'crown' of the shoulder is raised when seen from the front? I don't like that feature at all, and would be put off Steven Hitchcock' s style if it were so to any great extent. I prefer shoulders that are draped over, but maybe have a tiny bit of support.

You have the "roped" part correct, although the degree to which you see it on your jacket is probably negotiable. Do check the Photojournal to see what you think.

"Support" is a vague concept-- what I am trying to say is that the front and back of the jacket have a little (very little) more structure than A&S or Steed's coats. Not a suit of armor sort of structure, but it does hold its shape better and gives one the urge to sit just a little straighter. I couldn't even begin to identify a technical explanation, or say if it's traceable to construction or design. Nevertheless, it feels different.

Now that A&S have mannequins in their window, you might be able to compare even without walking in to experience their legendary sales technique.

I have tried to look in the photojournal, but all I can find is Anderson & Shepherd....maybe I am doing something wrong!

Even Anderson & Sheppard!

Look under the Certified Artisans page. Hitchcock has an album there.

You know what! After reading the responses to my question here and having looked at his website, I have just given Thomas Mahon a call, and have asked him to contact me when he is up in London next. He sounds like he might fit the bill. Unfortunately you yanks seem to be hogging his attention and us Brits are feeling a little deprived of our own tailors.....no offence. I'll still go and see Steven Hitchcock, but somehow I feel the style of TM will suit me best.

PS where in the Certified Artisans Programme should I look, as I still cannot find the photos of Steven Hitchcocks work?

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/album11

The blue chalk-stripe flannel worn by Steven in the picture is actually a pre-War A&S product. The tan flannel check, however, is his work.

Thanks Concordia, seeing those photographs has helped me enormously. I think I prefer softer shoulders than Steven Hitchcock has to offer, and I will therefore explore more what A&S, Steed and TM have to offer. I definately feel that I have made progress on my long trek to find the 'best' tailor for me. I want to make the right decision and I am trying to put in some proper and patient research.

Mahon might well be your man. But see also the pics`in the Bespoke Suits forum.

Do you mean all the black and white photos etc in the photojournal?

Apart from the shoulders, I have also been influenced by what has been said about the straightness vs crookedness of Hitchcock's vs Mahon's jackets. I am 35 , and would prefer a more youthful look, so again TM seems to fit the bill. I also think I prefer his straighter lapels to the more curved A&S lapels, but ideally would like them just a smidge narrower for a two button SB jacket......... do you think he might do this for me? .

How does Steed vary from TM?