Bangkok

[Pryor]

This is not yet a post describing the wonders of said fair city, but instead an entreaty to all and sundry who might have traveled to the jewel of Thailand. I hope to find myself there, for but a limited stay (less than a week most likely) in early November. Are there things outside of the guidebooks of which I should take advantage whilst there? I live in Beijing, so inexpensive tailoring is something that I can obtain at home, but I do believe that Thailand holds superior raw silk to China's versions of the stuff, though could be entirely incorrect in this. Are any of this forum's posters themselves posted in Bangkok, or at least regular visitors to the gateway to Southeast Asia? I'm looking for any and all advice that might be put forth,

Cheers,

Pryor

[tattersall007]

My wife and I bought from Jim Thompson and Shinawatra which are probably overpriced but the quality was good and their shops were very calming in the madness of Bangkok. She had two silk coats made once we were home, not trusting the local tailors. We stayed at the Oriental. Our finest meal was at Salathip in the Shangri-La; most memorable meal was by a lady with a wok on a sidewalk who served incredbile noodles and very cold beer.

[Pryor]

I am much obliged for your suggestions, tattersall007. What did you end up doing with the cloth that you purchased (or perhaps the silk was only for your wife)? And I too have found that many memorable (for better or worse) culinary experiences in asia begin with a streetside vendor. Sorpions, crickets and bees have all been crossed off my list of gastronomic-adventures-to-be-had whilst in China, and, as pedestrian as it sounds, they mostly tasted like chips - deep fried, crispy and salty. Which, in my book, is a rather glowing recommendation, having an unhealthful addiction to chips...

[pchong]

Bangkok is a fascinating, wonderful city. Full of live, energy all times of the day or night. Do tell us what you wish, and I will try and make recommendations. I travel to Bangkok very frequently, and know the city quite well.

Some suggestions to venture:
1. Restaurants and eateries - try out the local Thai delicacies. Marvellous! I can recommend if you wish. Also great european style food available. At all price levels...from US$1 per meal to US$500 per meal for one.
2. Culture - Traditional Thai dance, and music, as well as great Jazz. The King himself is a huge Jazz fan.
3. Traditional Massage - not the hanky panky stuff Thailand is so famous for...but real, truly relaxing, mind blowing. Try both traditional dry type as well as with baby oil or medicated oil.
4. Handicraft. Raw silk, tailoring (many types, from fly by night operators, to good bespoke houses), paintings, wood carvings, leather, etc.

[Pryor]

pchong, all of your suggestions sound wonderful. In particular I find myself attracted to the food, jazz and handicrafts aspects. I've spent a little time in Chiang Mai before, eating my fill of som thom from street vendors who took pleasure in a farang able to say "I enjoy eating spicy food" in Thai... Where would you suggest going for food on both ends of the spectrum? And for jazz? I assume that there must be some well established venues in place? And, finally, handicrafts - where would you suggest spending some time looking?

Cheers,

Pryor

[tattersall007]

I am much obliged for your suggestions, tattersall007. What did you end up doing with the cloth that you purchased (or perhaps the silk was only for your wife)? And I too have found that many memorable (for better or worse) culinary experiences in asia begin with a streetside vendor. Sorpions, crickets and bees have all been crossed off my list of gastronomic-adventures-to-be-had whilst in China, and, as pedestrian as it sounds, they mostly tasted like chips - deep fried, crispy and salty. Which, in my book, is a rather glowing recommendation, having an unhealthful addiction to chips...

Two coats for my wife and assorted throw pillowsfor the house. I couldn't for the life of me visualize clothing for myself out of silk. I did pick up some ties at Jim Thompson - they had some nice wovens that were supple and tied nice knots. The print ties were generally of poorer quality and always seemed to have elephants on them, if that's your thing.

[pchong]

Some recommendations:

Food. I love the local cuisine...so here are some recommendations.

1. Celadon at The Sukhothai Hotel.
2. Soi 5 FoodHouse. Down to earth, home cooked food. Excellent fish and prawns.
3. Baan Khun Mae. 458/7-9 Siam Square Soi 8, Rama 1 Rd. Take a taxi to Novotel siam Square. The restaurant is directly across the road. Literally - Mother's House. Very traditional Thai cuisine done very well.
4. Anna's. 114 Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd. fusion. Supposedly named after Anna - the English schoolteacher who was employed by King Mongkut to teach his children. Good wine list.
5. Cabbages and Condoms 10 Sukhumvit Soi 12. Started by Dr. Meechai, who is attributed to have single handedly popularized condoms amongst sex workers in Thailand...and reducing AIDS in the region. Good food...interesting whimsical decor...and instead of mints after the desserts, they present you with a condom.
6. Lord Jim's. top end restaurant at the Oriental Hotel. Excellent european style cuisine. Pricey by Bangkok prices.
7. New York Steakhouse at JW Marriott. Excellent US style steaks. Recently, I understand may have switched to Australian beef instead of USDA due to mad cow scare.

For Jazz, nowhere better than The Saxaphone Pub and Restaurant 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd.

Hope this helps...cheers.

[GarlicKnots]

I'm currently spending a term in BKK. Granted as a student my recommendations aren't going to skirt the $100 a person meals but here are some suggestions I have:

If you like your Som Tom check out Lan Som Tam Nua. My Chula Universities buddies took me there and it's referred to as Som Tom paradise. Siam Square, Soi 4. This is legitimate Issan cuisine so it will be rather spicy.

My favorite street pad thai place is near the Ratcathewi BTS stop. It's across the street from the 7-11 on the Asia hotel side. Ask for 'soorng kai krubp' (2 eggs) and see if you can put on your own seasonings (I hate the dried shrimps and beancurd). Sometimes it can take upwards of 30 minutes to get your order due to the lines (run amok with locals). I think I've had it 5/6 times for dinner this last week. It opens up around 6 pm.

I have yet to find a nice place to buy Thai silk ties besides Jim Thompsons (Correct--they have a fetish with elephants). However if you plan on buying any Jim Thompson materials go to their store near Lumphini instead of the actual home--the selection will be wider and the prices cheaper.

Second the Jazz @ Victory Monument, however pick up some street food outside--the food inside is uninspired.

The cigar collection and atmosphere at the La Casa del Habano inside the Oriental are quite good.

Take a dinner boat cruise along the river of kings. You'll get to look at quite a few landmarks and decide which ones to look at in the heat.

There is one drink you ought try; Go to the back of 7-11 where they have the refrigerator and look out for the fruity drinks. One is going to be called "Mogu Mogu." Unfortunately the English is rather small. Pick up the Pink colored one (Lychee flavor) and make sure to grab a yellow straw. It takes a bit getting used to, but it's quite yummy.

if you have anything particular you'd like to ask, be sure to ask--I have enough Chula buddies and their father's to figure it out.

And--not sure if it's mentioned in your guidebook stuff:

It might be more pleasant to travel by taxi, but it's certainly not faster. Take the BTS or MRT whenever possible. You can save upwards of 1 hour commuting during the day that way.

Also, out of the airport don't buy a prepaid taxi in the airport--get outside and take a metered cab. You'll likely save $10 US and more importantly know you weren't a silly farang.

Pchong: Where are the good bespoke houses--I've only found good MTM.

[Littlbigd]

Thank you for all of the excellent information so far. I am headed to Bangkok in a week.

Does anyone recommend any specific tailors? I saw a post about Inders Fashion. Are there any others you would recommend or has anyone else also used Inders Fashion?

Much obliged.

- Brian

[tattersall007]

Save your money... There may be exceptions, but of the dozens of tailor shops I saw in BKK, all appeared to cater to the x number of suits and shirts in 24 to 36 hours. Enjoy the sights, food and the friendly people. Look for tailored clothing elsewhere.

[Littlbigd]

That is what I needed to know! Thank you.

[pchong]

Actually, there are a few bespoke tailors who can do reasonable work for a reasonable pay. One such tailor is Art Tailor, where the captains of Thai industry go for their suits, when they dont have time for Savile Row. I have never had anything made by Art, but understand from my sartorially knowledgable Thai friends they can do good work. There are also numerous small, almost hole in the wall establishments scattered all over the city, where an ancient old gentleman practices his ancient craft who may turn out great work, but I would suspect may not be able to contribute a house style, or offer advice on balance of various measurements outside his formula.

Personally, I have 3 bespoke suits made by one such very traditional tailor in the good old days where he did almost everything himself by hand. But unfortunately, his son, who took over the business, has sinced modernized its practice with computers and fusing machines. Such is the march of progress, but I am afraid the work has gone downhill. He bemoaned the loss of craft, but saw the bright side that now they can make 10 times more suits (and be much more profitable) with the same number of cutters, tailors and seamstresses. And he opined that 99% of his customers don't care. Understandably, most of his work is in suits for the hotel industry in Thailand.

Thailand is full of uncovered potholes (literally and metaphorically for tailoring), and if one is not familiar with the territory and terrain, one is bound to fall into one of them. Thousands of tailors line the streets of Sukhumvit and elsewhere. None of them have an inhouse cutter and most don't even have a tailor. An itinerant cutter/tailor travels on motocycle andvisits these cloth merchants turned tailors who lure tourists by their cheap menu advertisements. Those familiar with Bangkok know what I mean by menu - a set of 2 wool suits, 1 waistcoat, 1 safari suit, 1 pair of trousers, 1 silk dressing gown and one tie for US$199 is an example. (BTW, Hong Kong is full of tailors of the same ilk - cut from the same cloth so to speak, pun intended) Work for these suits are invariably fused, andd done by some sweatshop factory tucked in the bowels of the metropolis.

And as for me, I take my business Hong Kong - where I have found, the craft is still very much alive, but only practiced by one or two of her finest.

[RWS]

. . . . And as for me, I take my business [to] Hong Kong - where I have found, the craft is still very much alive, but only practiced by one or two of her finest.

And those would be -- Baromon and Ah Man Hing Cheong?

[pchong]

For me, its WW Chan.