The London Lounge

I was very impressed by a Berluti shoe whose picture was posted on one of the forums:



Eva Vass will make it for $470 delivered. I am going for it. I am trying to work out only whether it should be made with single or double soles.[/img]

If you're ordering them on the U-last then you should get a single sole.

No, it will be on the P2 last.

I suppose you could go for either single or double soles as the P2 is comparatively rustic. The berluti shoes look like they are black with a burgundy wing tip - is this correct? (The colour rendering of my monitor is poor.)

Vass is saying that is cognac.

brescd01 wrote:Vass is saying that is cognac.

Vass's cognac is pretty orange. The wingcap is much closer to antic cognac.

Sorry, that is what Eva Vass wrote.

Just ask them to post a few leather samples to you.
Then you can decide, whether cognac or antique-cognac is the better color.

Good advice, Bengal-Stripe.

I don't think I was clear, both jcusey and Eva Vass think it is antique cognac.

I own a black pair of said Berluti's. I am not sure they are still available, but they were from their middling off the peg range (Blake stitched). I would not advise to try and replicate it by a different bootmaker.

a) The shape is rather square, and a rounder toe and round heel will affect the overall balance. You can get exactly the same model from both Edward Green (Beaulieu) and I think Crocket & Jones or Cleverley (off the peg). You will see what difference the more rounded last makes.

b) The Blake stitching also creates a more square look than the full Godyear welt. Again, changing the welting will mean you need to reconsider the balance of the whole shoe.

c) The Berluti colour is achieved by chosing a brownish grey leather which is then applied in the factory with several layers of black wax die. As this polishes through with wear, the "antiqued" effect of black edges and palish brown / grey base appears. If you chose a tan or brown base colour, the effect will be considerably different. The Berluti leather is more brown than tan.

Finally, these Berlutis were no more than about GBP500 some ten years ago. If they are still available, just get a pair. Or have a look at the Edward Green variety. Trying to use Vass will end up more expensive and not necessarily achieve the desired result. Especially the Central European style P last sounds all wrong. One caveat though: the Berluti shoes are not very substantial / hard wearing.

I appreciate the warning but Eva Vass thinks the shoe will be very nice. The cost is $470 delivered, a lot less than the Berlutis would cost. So far as the welt, Vass uses a reverse welt so I imagine the shoe will look a bit different. But Vass himself selected the last and thought the result would be very pretty. I am not having Vass make it to save money (though I am sure Berluti's prices would annoy me), but as an excuse to get another pair of Vass shoes, which I think are very good shoes especially considering their modest cost.

brescd01 wrote:I appreciate the warning but Eva Vass thinks the shoe will be very nice. The cost is $470 delivered, a lot less than the Berlutis would cost. So far as the welt, Vass uses a reverse welt so I imagine the shoe will look a bit different. But Vass himself selected the last and thought the result would be very pretty. I am not having Vass make it to save money (though I am sure Berluti's prices would annoy me), but as an excuse to get another pair of Vass shoes, which I think are very good shoes especially considering their modest cost.

This is very cheap sounding to me. How does it work - what is her contact info? You just tell her what you want, pick a stock last, and they'll do it?
How did you know your size already?
I really want some Vass because of the construction and this price sounds amazing, but none of their stock designs has really bowled me over. I'm really interested in this special order option though, if you could give me info. Thanks!

This is all the info I have:

Eva Vass 36-1318-2375 (Mondays only) or 36-20-961-2630 vasseva@mail.datanet.hu

Email is by far the best way to speak to her. She writes English very well but her spoken English is not so hot and her cell phone has to be heard to be believed, not even as good as cups attached by string I think.

Thanks, I have emailed her. I would love them to make me just a classic black, round-toed captoe. We'll see what her response is. Thanks again!