The London Lounge

Dear all -

this is my first posting to the Lounge. I am slightly intimidated by the high level of knowledge displayed by the members, but also encouraged by the positive atmosphere. So here we go:

I am currently in a very informal work environment where ties are regarded as relics from the past. Being an avid collector of fine neckwear, I find my new situation somewhat of a challenge, but have decided to maintain some elegance by at least displaying fine handkerchiefs in my suit pockets. My questions are as follows:

- I prefer linen handkerchiefs. However, they tend to be very bulky, especially with the tips pointing up and out in a "casual" way. Is it very bad to fold them almost squarely so that the hand-rolled part forms a more or less straight line?
- I struggle to find nice linen handkerchiefs that are (1) not too big and bulky, and (2) have some exciting colour combinations, and (3) are hand-rolled. I've been to T&A and others in London, but without luck. Most of my best handkerchiefs are from Paul Stuart, but my limited budget restricts me from flying frequently to the U.S. Does anyone know where in Europe to find a good variation of top quality linen handkerchiefs?
- I do sometimes wear silk handkerchiefs, but then almost exclusively made of a textured fabrics. Robert Talbott used to have some fine ones. Most of the silk handkerchiefs I have found in Europe are made of plain silk with printed patterns. Again - does anyone know of a place to find something special made of silk - preferably with woven patterns?
- And finally, is it really bad to wear cotton handkerchiefs?

Cheers,
K-tie

I do not think it is bad at all to wear cotton handkerchiefs. I would make sure you get a vvery nice cotton, but there is nothing wrong with it per se. For me the best material is 70-30 linen cotton. This is a very popular shirting blend in italy, and I am sure if you contacted a shirtmaker, they could but the fabric and make some up for you. Several clothing manufacturers make handkerchiefs as well. I know Zegna makes a nice cotton linen blend, hermes has linen, brioni makes both cotton and silk, and I am sure others do as well. Alan Flusser will send them to you from his shop, as I am sure Paul Stuart will if you call.

Youmay want to try Charvet in Paris as well.

If you're looking for colored silks, www.mulberrywood.com has some beautiful ones. Can't vouch for the patterns, but the solid colors are spectacular. And white is an option as well.

I don't know if you would find them bulky or not, but I have long bought my white linen squares from Brooks Brothers. 100% Irish linen with a hand-rolled edge. Good price too. Personally, I don't find them at all bulky.

Swiss cotton hanks can be wonderful. I get mine from Flusser in New York. He sources them from the same supplier that stocks T&A and other shops, so I'm sure you can find them in Europe. I also like the ones at Charvet.

For slik and wool, I love Drake's.

I don't think I've ever seen a woven silk hank, but I imagine those would be bulky.

Massimo Bizzocchi from Kiton once explained to me that he uses cotton half the year and linen half the year, but for the life of me I cannot remember his reasoning, nor which half was for which fabric. I know it had something to do with the different fabric properties in different heat and humidity. Does anybody have any insight into this?

I usually prefer silk with a hand rolled edge, but sometimes resort to some white linen handkerchiefs that were handed down from my greatgrandfather. I have no idea how the edge of the linen ones treatment is called: about 1cm is folded over and then stitched / woven into place leaving a line of tiny holes.

Some time ago I spotted somebody with a large white silk handkerchief that was treated exactly like my old linen handkerchiefs. I thought this looked far better than the ubiquitous hand rolling. Unfortunately I did not have the courage to approach a stranger to ask where he buys his pocket squares. Does anybody know where one could find anything like it?

TVD wrote:II have no idea how the edge of the linen ones treatment is called: about 1cm is folded over and then stitched / woven into place leaving a line of tiny holes.

It’s called “hemstitched” and is produced in drawn thread work:
http://www.umilta.net/puntoantico.html

Traditionally it is handmade but there are ways (employing a “wing-needle” that punches holes) to use a sewing machine and make an approximation of handwork.

Thank you, Rolf, that is exactly what I mean. I am not sure the old linen handkerchiefs I have are handstitched, but I have seen some rather inferior variations on some cotton ones recently, which I infer would be machine made.

Now I need to find a supplier of hemstitched handkerchiefs in white silk.

Thank you for great tips. Have never thought of asking my shirt maker to make me some handkerchiefs - how embarassing. Some linen-cotton combinations would be nice. The reason for me being sceptical to cotton is primarily because it is unfortunately not always appropriate for me to wear ties (yes - this is possible...), as I sometimes operate in very informal environments. Matching a cotton shirt with a cotton handkerchief makes the ensemble, in my opinion, a little too over-coordinated, even if I do not overly match the colours.

Great tips on stores. Does anyone know where Flusser, Paul Stuart, and T&A source their handkerchiefs, especially the linen ones, from?

K-tie wrote:Does anyone know where Flusser, Paul Stuart, and T&A source their handkerchiefs, especially the linen ones, from?

I don't believe Flusser carries linen. If he does, there are not many. But he has a great many cottons. I believe the cotton is milled in Switzerland, and the the squares are finished in France. I can't remember the name of the company, but Charvet, Talbott, and T&A also use them.

mytailor.com has a supply of patterned linens from Thomas Mason. I've inquired as to the cost of having them cut and sewn with hand-rolled edges. Will post when I have a replay.

As one who prefers patterned linen pocket squares over silk and cotton, I am going to have some Thomas Mason linen shirting sewn into 14" handkerchiefs with hand-rolled edges. I have to order six of each style, and I plan to keep two of each.

The first two will be a light blue with a thick navy overcheck and a white with a textured white overcheck.

I don't want to be in business with these, but I don't need stacks of extra handkerchiefs either If any members would like to take part of the order, contact me privately.

The company is Boussac -- to the best of my knowledge, the fabric is milled in France and made into squares in France. Boussac left the US market in 1987 and supplies T&A with their beautiful double voile fabrics. Shirt fabric is now a very small part of Boussac as a majority of their revenue comes from curtain and upholstery fabrics.

manton wrote:

K-tie wrote:Does anyone know where Flusser, Paul Stuart, and T&A source their handkerchiefs, especially the linen ones, from?

I don't believe Flusser carries linen. If he does, there are not many. But he has a great many cottons. I believe the cotton is milled in Switzerland, and the the squares are finished in France. I can't remember the name of the company, but Charvet, Talbott, and T&A also use them.

From time to time, I have found some wonderful antique linen handkerchiefs at various fleamarkets. They were usually made for women, but go quite nicely in my breast pocket. I've also found some very lightweight linen table napkins I have used as pocket squares. I'm also likely to shop among women's scarves for something usable. They tend to be a bit bolder in their scarf prints than what one might find at the local haberdasher and, folded just right, can make a wonderful statement. Of course, one's outlook must be at least as bold as one's pocket square.

Here's a great link for pocket square folds (posted here before, I think)
http://www.neckties.com/foldinginfo.php

Paul Stuart used to carry, in plain colors, somewhat smaller sized linen squares.