The London Lounge

Gents, anyone here with knowledge of Naples and recommendations on bespoke makers to visit ?

I found this article which mentions Gennaro Solito, Rubinacci, Marinella and Merolla.

Any other ideas for all manner of bespoke menswear, arts, crafts, cafe , ristorante?

http://www.noveporte.it/rassegna/loro.htm

Upper-

Make sure you call and visit Kiton to see the museum that they have. Also, they do do bespoke, although the prices are high. From what I have heard (from one of the Managing Directors), if you call ahead and seem knowledgeable (which you are), either the owner or his nephew will give you a tour of the factory, and you can eat in the cafeteria (not a good word for what it is) with everybody who works there from owner to apprentice, where all of the vegetables are grown on site. It is said to be some of the best food in Naples.

We did not go, as I was in Naples during one of their (many) vacations, but I have always meant to.

Anything for a free meal, iammatt!

Will Rubinacci feed you too?

How do you compare your bespoke Rubinacci with your Kiton?

I can't say that one is actually better than the other. That being said, I have oredered from Kiton many times, and by this time, after wearing my MTMs back to the next trunk show, I feel like I have had 4 fittings from them, and now they come perfect. I used to really not like Kiton jackets until I had an Italian friend of mine call their offices in Italy and ask what somebody would order if they did not want the American cut, but wanted the true Neapolitan look. I then took that info to my local store, and they ordered it (unfortunately, the fist time they tried to "save" me from having something different, and didn't order it quite how I wanted it). Over the years, we have straightened that out. Now that I can order that cut, I like it as much or better than any other that I have ordered.

I have to say that they are very accomodating when it comes to modifying MTM orders to satisfy customer needs.

Some have wondered about the durability of Kiton material: beautiful and fine, but does it last?

What does a Kiton MTM go for now?

It's true, the Italian RTW makers promote an altogether different silhouette for the American market than, say, Europe.
Have you ever met Luigi Martini at the Kiton NYC boutique?; I think that his suit is about as extreme Neopolitan as you could ever find!

uppercase wrote:Some have wondered about the durability of Kiton material: beautiful and fine, but does it last?

!

They take a little upkeep! The material wears pretty well, but they are more delicate than a Savile Row suid. I would say that my Kitons and my Rubinacci are relatively similar in terms of maintenance. I have gotten good enough with a needle that I can put almost any slight pull in a fabric back in place (although I don't touch them if they are near a shoulder). I think all Neapolitan suits are a bit like English cars, taking care of them is part of the enjoyment.

That being said, the fabrics wear great, and I have never had any shining or pilling etc.

Yes, the cuts for the American market are like Brooks Brothers.

I like the article is it possible to get it translated to English?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

uppercase wrote:Gents, anyone here with knowledge of Naples and recommendations on bespoke makers to visit ? . . . .

Check "Naples", under City Guides. You'll find more information there, and posting your question there should gather still more.

The Google translation doesn't make too much sense but here it is:

http://translate.google.com/translate?h ... D%26sa%3DG

The barber iin the photo - The Barberia di Gianni Cirillo - has to be the most stylish, and forbidding, barber I have ever seen!

Thank you Uppercase for the translation. I have a good read for tonight.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Iammatt,

I love visiting textile and clothing museums and I am curious as to what is in the Kiton museum?


If you are ever in Lyon they have a wonderful museum of silk with a large collection of old silk and the looms that were used to weave them. I think that you might enjoy visiting this museum. Noina and I were fascinated. The old looms were in a way like early computers with punch cards.

NAPLES..the Mecca of male sartorial arts. My favorite tailors are the Attolinis. Not as large as the Kiton clothing empire, but to me that is a good thing. Classic Neapolitan cut.

Sartoria Cesare Attolini. via Nazionale delle Puglie 42. Casalnuovo di Napoli.

There are any number of other tailors and shops...

Tailor

Sartoria Pirozzi (Nunzo)

Shirtmaker

Anna Matuozzo
Viale Gramsci, 26
Tel 081-663874 http://www.annamatuozzo.it

a list I Put together in the past:

Marinella is in Piazza Vittoria
Around the corner is the Borrelli flagship in Via Filangieri
Finally, in Via dei Mille, you will find
Rubinacci
Monetti
Angelo Marino
All 3 do the neapolitan suit perfectly

Al five stores are within a 5 minute walk radius, so you should be able to visit them all without getting robbed, I hope.

Naples
shirtmakers:
Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci, 26)
Merolla e de l'Ero (via Calabritto, 20)

tailors:
Attolini (custom, via Vetriera, 12)
Gianni Marigliano (via Filangieri, 11)
Rubinacci (custom, via Filangieri, 26)
Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256)
Sartoria Panico (Antonio)
Via Carducci, 29
Tel 081-415804 www.sartoriapanico.it

Sartoria Pirozzi (Nunzo)

This months Saveur food magazine mentions a bakery that is known for there Baba cakes ( different from baba au rhum pastries) It sounds amazing/

shirtmakers:
Anna Matuozzo (viale Gramsci, 26)
Tel 081-663874 www.annamatuozzo.it
Merolla e de l'Ero (via Calabritto, 20)

tailors:
Attolini (custom, via Vetriera, 12)
Gianni Marigliano (via Filangieri, 11)
Rubinacci (custom, via Filangieri, 26)
Gennaro Solito (via Toledo, 256)

ties:
E. Marinella (Riviera di Chiaia, 287)

umbrellas:
Mario Talarico (Vico Due Porte a Toledo, 4)