The London Lounge

First of all, what is an "oxford?" Is a brogue a special type of oxford? I know (though I cannot describe it) it is the opposite of a derby. But is that it?

Also, can an oxford be made attractively with a double sole (or even triple), and is there an EG oxford model that is commonly available with a double sole?

An oxford is a low shoe with two or more sets of eyelets for laces.

A brogue can be a heavy oxford shoe with a large perforated design on toe and border seams. It is also known as a wing tip.

Generally, a more rustic or sporty oxford would look good with a double sole. A sleek, cap toe oxford for town would look better with a single sole.

I believe the availability of double soled Greens depends upon the orders placed by the individual retailers. In other words, Saks might have a double sole in one model, but Jay Kos might not carry the same model with a single sole. I do not know what kind of stock program Green has. The best bet is to call the Green store in London.

The Green catalogue shows some double soled shoes, and any sole configuration can be ordered in a special order. I haven't heard of a triple sole, and I would think that it would be too thick and stiff. I would think that the hard rubber Commando style sole would serve the purpose better than a triple sole.

What would be the purpose of a triple sole?

Good luck.

But the oxford is not the opposite of a derby? By your definition a derby is a type of oxford.

An Oxford is a low-cut shoe that laces up in one to six pairs of eyelets..

A Derby (or Blucher) is a laced shoe in which the tongue is part of the vamp, such as a wingtip.

As I understand it, the primary difference is the height of the shoe. The Oxford, as a more elegant formal shoe is low-cut . The Derby is higher cut, reflecting its origin as a half-boot designed by Field Marshal Blucher of the Prussian Army. Either a Derby or an Oxford can be presented as a brogue which just means it is patterned with a perforated design.

So the difference is not the tongue?

The English and the Americans use the name “Oxford” to mean different things.

US: Oxford is a lace-up shoe (as opposed to a boot) of any style. This can be a blucher or a balmoral.

UK: Oxford is a shoe with closed lacing (US: balmoral), thus different from a Derby or Gibson (US: blucher).

Closed lacing: the vamp (forepart) goes over the quarters (sideparts containing the eyelets).
Open lacing: the quarters go over the vamp.

Thank you Bengal Stripe!

In "Alden's Minimum Wardrobe" which meaning is implied?

Wait, I want to hear about the triple sole.

Mark Seitelman wrote:Wait, I want to hear about the triple sole.

The EG Dundee is a triple soled-shoe, Mark.

It is meant for foul weather or mucky conditions. The triple sole is only one element of the construction that works toward the intended purpose. Others are the welting, which channel water outward, and the lack of horizontal seams through which water can leak. The triple sole has a number of benefits, each of which may be marginal, bu,t together and with the other features, help the shoe suit its purpose. Among the specific benefits are reduced likelihood that the inside of the shoe will soak through from the bottom, increased wear, increased cushioning for long walks and lifting the upper, welt seams and you a bit above the muck.

You are correct that a rubber sole like the Ridgeway would be equally suitable, or perhaps superior in some regards, for the same purposes.

I believe Dr. Bresch has ordered a pair of the Dundees and he can tell us his thoughts when they arrive.

Mr. Alden, I'm quite certain, intends oxfords to mean closed laced shoes (Balmorals), as a contrast to derbies (Bluechers).

Oxfords are generally considered the more formal or proper attire, and as such are desirable in larger numbers as they can "go" with all manner of suits.

Closed lacing is certainly ideal for keeping the elements out (is this why the double sole?). Either sort can go with broguing. I find closed to be more elegant with minimal perforations - a medallion perhaps or a swallowtail design - and open to better balance wingtips. This is just my taste though. Nearly any combination can be had.

Right now some cognac-brown wholecuts with a small medallion design would make me very happy...

Cheers,

Eden

Hey Dopey, Dr Bresch feels more like Sleepy or Dumpy, so maybe you could call me one of those or just David?

In any event, I received the Dundee. It is much nicer than the AS version of the veldtshoen but I did not think it worth the $700 I paid for it. On the other hand, it is exactly what I wanted and I have had to discard several AS ordered in the mail because they were just too inelegant to be useful. Because of the problem with clunky lasts, even though the AS are priced right and fit me very comfortably, I really can't order anymore through the mail.