The London Lounge

There is a sign in window of Oxxford's store on 57th Street that announces a new model called the Radcliff. Does anyone know what the specs and the marketing spin are?

Oxxford Radcliff? The University teaching hospital at Oxford is called The Radcliffe. Coincidence?

BenedictSpinola wrote:Oxxford Radcliff? The University teaching hospital at Oxford is called The Radcliffe. Coincidence?

Probably. The woman's college at Harvard was Radcliff; there's an American family (of English descent, obviously) with the same name; and there may be other references, too -- or just a nice-sounding appellation.

Interestingly, I spoke yesterday with Alan Isaacs, who (I understand) heads the new custom-make division of Oxxford. I described the next sportcoat I want Oxxford to make for me: short collar, gorge "speaking" to the shoulder, short lapel rolling to just below the top of three buttons. Alan responded that this was nearly a perfect description of the new Radcliff model.

After I go to Oxxford for remeasuring, late this month, I may be able to tell you more about the Radcliff, if you wish.

The Radcliff is a slimmer coat with higher armholes, narrower lapels, higher button stance (both 2B and 3B), somewhat flared skirt, higher gorge, and higher chest pocket. The coat has side vents and is fully lined in a special lining. The pants are without pleats and are narrower in the leg.

Of course, a MTM suit can be ordered with all sorts of variations which are not in the RTW, such as quarter lining, no vent, pleated trousers, etc.

I tried-on one in the Oxxford Store, and it is excellent. The shoulder is close fitting. On the RTW model I would not have to take-in a shoulder which I must do often on RTW. I found the fit similar to the Crittiden model which I have been making. The Criittiden is sold exclusively RTW at Wilkes Bashford in San Franscisco.

I liked the Radcliffl very much, and I am going to order a suit with one of Tip Top finds.

Bergdorf Goodman Men's Oxxford selection is almost entirely the Radcliff model.

The Radcliff has been shown in the magazine adverstising of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf. I believe that it is in an ad in the new Mens Vogue.

I mentioned to the good people at Oxxford that they should show the model on their website. They are re-doing it.

I cannot resist commenting, that it should not be surprising to hear of a model called 'Radcliff' from a company named 'Oxxford.'

Neuropsychiatrically, this is what is called a literal paraphasia. See, Critchley's text on Aphasiology, page 220: "The substituted word may bear some relation to the word at fault."

Marketing people come up with these ideas. Tangentially, I have often wondered who exactly thinks up the names of the woolen merchants' books: 'Mistral', Palette, London Stripes, Glorious Twelves, Sirocco, come to mind.

Terry A. Teplitz, M.D.

Hello everyone. Just to add my two cents' worth:

The name 'Radcliffe' is very closely associated with 'Oxford'. Apart from the JR Hospital mentioned above, there's the Radcliffe Camera, Radcliffe Infirmary, Radcliffe Observatory, Radcliffe Science Library, Radcliffe Square, and the Radcliffe Quad of University College. The munificence of another Radcliffe (Anthony Radcliffe), is recorded on the central frieze of Peckwater Quad (Christ Church). I wouldn't be surprised if 'Oxxford' was drawing directly and solely on that association in naming its new model the 'Radcliff'.

Wheels

I tried on the new model the other day. It is not for me.

Hands down, my suits and odd trousers from Oxxford are the most well made garments in my closet. But, they are some of the most poorly designed garments that I have, and design is aesthetic.

I walk by the store several times a week on 57th Street, and each time I stop and study the windows. Invariably, I think to myself, “that is great cloth; the roll of the lapel/rever is beautiful. But, if only they had done x, y, or z to the coat. For the trousers, I wish they would have done alpha, beta, or gamma.”

Even with the garments that I’ve had made to measure, things just did not turn out quite the way I wanted them. There is nothing wrong with any of the clothes, but they are just not what I asked for.

Others have had great luck and are happy. I really wish I could be one of them. I’ve even tried to mollify myself to think otherwise. Oh well, McIntosh amps are not all that great to look at either, but I would not have anything else. A specious analogy to be sure.

Dear Hartline:

Oxxford's management wants to make its product work. They have a couple of guys who are devoted to "getting things right" whether that means re-fitting or tweaking an existing garment or doing based try-ons on future orders.

New management has shaken things up at the store. The attitude from Mr. Hays to the tailor is to "make things happen." A lease has been signed for the new store, and the owners know that satisified customers are the soul of the business.

If you wish to discuss this further please feel free to call me. It's no secret that I'm a friend of the store, and if your issues can be remedied we can get Mike Cohen involved.. (He's the 39 year old CEO who is a "production" man.)

Which tailor/establishment works best for you?

Mark
212-962-2626