The London Lounge

Does anyone have pictures and names of the RTW models of these three brands constructed in this manner? Can anyone define it for me? I have the Alfred Sargent version and I am unhappy with it because it is extremely ungainly.

brescd01 wrote:I am unhappy with it because it is extremely ungainly.

That’s the nature of the beast!

“Veldtschoen” (field shoe in Boer/Dutch) is a method of construction used in heavy-duty country footwear as it improves water resistance. They are always heavy shoes, made on solid lasts that will provide space for extra thick socks. They are the jeeps of the shoe world. Nobody would use veldtschoen as construction method for smart town shoes.

“Norwegian” construction is quite similar to veldtschoen (in both methods the uppers are turned outwards). A number of Italian makers are rather fond of “Norvegese” and use it for smart, and somewhat flashy shoes. They also will have an extended welt. Have a look at a recent thread; there are also some pictures in the photo gallery:
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=293

Maybe that’s what you’re looking for. Otherwise look out for the shoes you like and let questions of construction come afterwards.

Rolf

Okay, how about the JL Barros, and the Vass Norweger? Do these have the Norwegian (weather resistant) construction?

brescd01 wrote:Okay, how about the JL Barros, and the Vass Norweger? Do these have the Norwegian (weather resistant) construction?

No, neither one. Vass's Norweger can be made reverse-welted, but that's not the same thing as Norwegian construction (although it is more weather-resistant than standard welting). Barros has standard welting if memory serves.

C&J has the Veldt shoe and the Snowdon boot.

I believe that EG's Galway boot is also veldtschoen construction. Such country bluchers as Dundee might also be, but I'm not sure.

See p. 167 of the Roetzel book for a cross-section diagram of a veldtschoen-constructed shoe. In this style of construction, the upper is turned outward at the welt instead of underneath the welt. They also typically have bellows tongues.

EG told me the Dundee is a veldt and I believe there is one other model but I don't recall which it is.

brescd01 wrote:Okay, how about the JL Barros, and the Vass Norweger? Do these have the Norwegian (weather resistant) construction?

As all lovers of “The Golden Girls” and in particular the fans of Rose Nylund (Betty White) will know, things Norwegian are quite complicated.

In shoe, there is Norwegian construction (which we talked about here) and there is Norwegian style. This style (English name “apron front”, French “chasse”) has the apron or lake covering the vamp (the top of the shoe) and also has a seam across the toe. EG’s “Dover” and JM Weston’s “Chasse” are probably the most popular samples, but Vass’ “Norwegian” and Lobb’s “Barros” are other samples of this particular design. A Norwegian style might come in Norwegian construction, but more often it does not.

“That’s the way things are in St Olav’s.”

So John, Lance, Rolf(and any other shoe experts), would you advise one getting cordovan shoes or boots made for winter(or perhaps springtime) use to have them made with Norwegian welting?

Reverse welting was offerred on my Vass Norweigan Peter Last shoes, it was not handsome, but certainly substantial looking. I suppose it is always a trade off.

Terry Teplitz

mathew wrote:So John, Lance, Rolf(and any other shoe experts), would you advise one getting cordovan shoes or boots made for winter(or perhaps springtime) use to have them made with Norwegian welting?

Well, my beau ideal of a winter boot/field boot/bad weather boot would be either the EG Galway or the C&J Snowdon. My understanding is that shell cordovan has water-resistant properties which would make it useful for such an application, so a shell cordovan Norwegian-welted high boot would probably do very well in the winter.

I just pulled the trigger on the EG Dundee, with matching belt. 700 dollars full price plus postage (no duty, it will be sent by Royal Mail) + belt (I do not know the exact price). The prices that have been bandied about for EG's made me feel like this was a deal of some sort.

Matching belt? Sixteen pair of their shoes and I didn't know EG made belts. Did you get the belt from them? With or without buckle?

What leather did you get?

Rosewood grained country calf. The belt is supposed to match exactly.

That's a good price. I take it the item is in stock and doesn't have to be special ordered.

Last I asked, EG belts are available in black, chestnut, burnt pine, dark oak, burgundy, Rosewood country calf, and walnut country calf.

The Dundee is a monster!

I will probably need to get one-two more belts. Rosewood country calf is covered, as are the conventional black and brown. I need to cover the browns other than dark brown. That leaves (and feel free to correct me) chestnut, burnt pine, dark oak, and walnut country calf in the EG lexicon. Can anyone explain what these colors are so that I can select the 1-2 I need to cover my other shoes? Remember, black and dark brown are easy, I have two that are fine. I ordered a matching belt for the dundee and that will cover an Alfred Sargent I have of the same color. But my other shoes are all that brown less than dark brown and richer than tan.