The London Lounge

I have just returned from a brief visit to Budapest and Salzburg. I visited the Budapest shop after having met in New York, with their rep. Gabor Halmos in the spring. Mr. Halmos was quite educational and we discussed details that accelerated the process of ordering. I would like to offer a disclaimer that I have no knowledge whatsoever of bespoke shoes, and have limited interest in the subject.

A visit to the shop is a challenge unless you have the good forturne to fit one of their stock sizes, or have ordered from them before. There are two salesladies, who do not speak English, and most visitors to the shop are simply choosing from stock.

With some assertiveness, since my wife speaks Hungarian, I arranged to have Eva Vass come to the shop (the owner's daughter who is fluent in English). Mr. Halmos provided her cell number should I need her. I should add Ms. Vass' arrival was at her convenience not mine. Then, a process of attempting to see if any of the stock lasts will work was initiated. They are prepared to modify stock lasts to some degree. As I expected my foot is too small and narrow, and a bespoke last required. Ms. Vass appears quite capable and knowledgeable.

Measurements and drawings were then taken under Eva's eye, by one of the taciturn ladies, and we discussed details of my choice, Norweigan, split toe, Peter last, scotch grain, etc. Delivery will be in about 2 months, and the price substantially higher than stock or modified stock. Mr. Halmos advised that they will get the order right about 90% of the time for a visitor to the shop, with shoes dispacthed thereafter. I am cautiously optimistic that the finished product will be good.

I was advised by Mr. Halmos that Bergdorf Goodman will be stocking a very limited selection of their shoes, and if I understood Eva correctly, only cordovan models. If any of the LL cognoscenti can fit into stock sizes, my advice is to try that first before embarking upon the bespoke Vass, unless you will be in Budapest. The shoes are quite handsome I must say.

Terry A. Teplitz, M.D.

So, then, Vass does offer fully bespoke (lasts made especially for a single client, not simply modified from stock; designs to the client's desires -- whatever those might be -- not simply modified from stock designs) shoes? Raphael's posting on another thread indicated that only MTM, and not true bespoke, is available; but he was unable to consult with Miss Vass.

I am not knowledgable about shoes at all, but let me explain my understanding:

A true custom made last, for me and me alone, made to my measurements, but with my selection of a stock model. That said, I believe infinite details could be added to the stock model, but I was very happy with their Norweigan on the Peter last.

Now, I suppose that makes it rather a hybrid: custom last, stock model---not exactly made to measure not exactly 100% bespoke. To me, as long as it is a unique last that fits, I am happy.

Let me add, I just had a somewhat testy conversation with the NYC rep about the 25% VAT charged, which I beleive should not have been charged, and at any rate, should certainly be rebated upon export. Remeber that Hungary is not yet fully EU, and seems to have somewhat unusual VAT refund rules. The solution appears to be that my order should be shipped with their October 10 US stock shipment, which they recognize at "for Export." I consulted with a Hungarian Budeapester colleague, who advised me to address this without delay and not to assume anything. Caveat emptor.

Terry A. Teplitz, M.D.

P.S. The Bergdorf models I believe will be about 4 or 5 different shoes, primarily in cordovan to be shown at Bergdorf's in November.