The London Lounge

In a previous post (http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=244) Etutee discussed a rubberized riding coat. The illustrated example appeared more attractive to me than the ubiquitous trenchcoat.

Any suggestions where such a coat could be found, or who could make one? Tailors are not generally enthusiastic about making waterproof garnments, and Aquascutum's MTM service offers mainly the trenchcoat (which does seem beautifully made, though). I could not possibly go anywhere near Burberry, given their recent direction.

If I venture to ask a tailor to do it, what are the details to specify? Pitfalls? I should be most grateful for suggestions and illustrations.

I couldn't find the coat you speak of, but a classic trenchcoat is wonderful. Perhaps its ubiquitous, but so are charcoal overcoats in winter. I think well made trenchcoats are terribly rare, and the Aquascutum MTM seems like a great choice to me.

Yes, unfortunately you are right that there are not many really good trenchcoats.

Somehow I feel that the Raglan sleeve requires a really good fit to be satisfying. My current Burberry raincoat (not a trenchcoat) is the only off-the-peg garnment I have, and I find it uncomfortable - it slides about and puts its weight on the neck rather than the shoulders.

By the way, the riding coat in question can be found on illustration number 8 counted from the top of the post.

I would be interested to hear whether anybody has any experience with the MTM departments of Aquascutum or Burberry's recently.

Oddly, the Aquascutum range is the only one that fits me fairly well off the rack. So I've never purchased made to measure from that line but can attest to the water repellency of their trench, as well as its durability and overall good looks. I had a full length Barbour raincoat for awhile, but it was stolen out of a cloak room at a hotel. It wasn't the prettiest thing I've ever worn, but it was great in a squall.

Try Cordings.

From their website: "Full range of handmade Mackintoshes for men. Three-quarter or full length, full or half-lined. Riding Mackintoshes a speciality."

I have no direct experience of this coat, however.

Leon

You are looking for a Mackintosh with articulated center back vent and leg stirrups, TVD, and as Leon suggests, Cordings is a good choice. (There are others, as well, and I encourage you to enter the words "Mackintosh raincoats" into your favorite search engine.) One codicil: it is tough to get a good fit by mail order--and far preferable to be measured wearing the clothes you intend to protect...and if either Aquascutum or Burberry offers such a service where you live or close by, it might be wise to take advantage of the opportunity. I own an Aquascutum trench coat that has served me faithfully for twenty years (though it is now, at last, coming to smash...), and a Burberry fly front twill raincoat that is very comfortable. Either company can turn out a good product; and Cordings is a weatherproofing specialist, which deserves its fine reputation. Fit is everything, as you point out in your own post. If you are to have a coat made, ensure that you are either properly measured by a professional, or, if this is problematic for you, that you receive careful directions from the maker of choice. Important to follow their guidelines exactly as possible to ensure satisfying results.

Thank you all.

I will investigate Cordings, where I ususally source my moleskins. I forgot they did Mackintoshes. They were a bit hit and miss over the last few years, all those beautiful thornproof safari jackets are no more than a distant memory these days. Their ready to wear offering seems pretty much on a par with Hackett, some interesting tweeds though (possible John G Hardy, not sure). But their trouser cut is very good. I read somewhere there were management and ownership changes.

The Aquascutum does fit but for the sleeves, which need to be an inch or so longer. This propels me into made to order territory. I am not sure how much this is truly bespoke or just MTM. I would not wish to play around too much with their standard cut. Fine for a trench, but not necessarily for the riding coat.

I ventured into the Mackintosh Ltd shop in Burlington Arcade. The male product range was very narrow, nobody mentioned custom orders to me and I did not feel like asking, I fear.

I have yet to investigate Burberry's. Given what they have recently done to the brand, and that they closed the old shop in Haymarket, I am again not feeling too inclined.

To return to the example in Etutee's illustration, as far as I can make out it is a SB notch lapel coat with Raglan sleeves and patch pockets. I am not sure whether there is a belt. There is a suggestion of stitching on the pockets and the seam on the sleeve. Vents? I would assume a single one, or two side vents with extra fabric to extend over the back of the horse? I cannot see it sufficiently clearly on the illustration.

I thought the shape much more simple and elegant than a Trenchcoat, yet relaxed, degage (where is that accent symbol when I need it?). I tried to achieve this effect once before, and specified a cream coloured lightweight wool Gabardine coat cut as a SB Chesterfield. It turned out magnificently, but appears not sufficiently understated for all but the most plutocratic of town settings.

So the quest continues...

Eric Clapton bailed out Cordings last year.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/3528296.stm

Mackintosh has re invented themselves as a fashion brand. Yes, they share shop space with Globetrotter suitcases (indestructible) along the Burlington Arcade, with one rather sorry looking rail of women's macs.

Any coat for riding would have a single centre vent. I googled "riding mackintosh" and found this:
http://www.darkhorseuk.com/riding_macs.htm

The photos may give you some ideas.

Leon

The macs at Cordings and at W&H Gidden (I like its tartan better) are made by Mackintosh Ltd. in Glasgow. http://www.mackintoshrainwear.com/ Same company that is in the Burlington Arcade. I agree that the shop in the Burlington Arcade is a bit garish, but if you ask for Kim you should find what you need.

For those of you in New York, they sell them at Bergdorf's, but the colors are not right and the selection is limited. They are also sold at Jack Spade in one model

The model with the leg straps and the ticket pocket is called the "Andrew."

Barbour's mac is actually made in Italy the last time I looked at it.

One of the key issues here is the fabric itself.

Thank you for the advice.

Went to Cordings. They do macs, a few sizes in the shop. The one that was sort of acceptable around the shoulders had sleeves about two (yes, this is not a mistake) inches too short for me. They can order one with longer sleeves, but it would take more than six months. I felt that the stiffness of the rubberised cotton called for great skill in fitting it, and I did not have the impression that this was available.

If I have the time, I may explore Hartline's contacts at Mackintosh.

Also looked in at Burberry's. Their flagship store on Regent Street has demoted raincoats to a dingy basement with stained carpets. The good news was the trench coat fitted like a glove. Unfortunately, I thought the quality looked much worse than the Aquascutum: flimsy plastic buttons roughly sown on by machine, industrial buttonholes the likes I had not seen since growing out of my school stuff. A friend recalled he heard rumours they outsourced production to Turkey. I felt this was a company run to please the financial commuinity more than its customers.

All this at prices nearly 30% higher than Aquascutum, where the men's department resides on a splendid first floor with a separate circular room for raincoats and a library like room for their MTM department.

I always had a strange fondness for Burberry's, way back when they were still in Haymarket, and I felt somewhat sad as I was leaving their Regent Street store. Especially because the salesman had been most pleasant, but there is little that can be done on the shopfloor to compensate for strategy decisions.

TVD wrote:Thank you for the advice.

Went to Cordings. They do macs, a few sizes in the shop. The one that was sort of acceptable around the shoulders had sleeves about two (yes, this is not a mistake) inches too short for me. They can order one with longer sleeves, but it would take more than six months. I felt that the stiffness of the rubberised cotton called for great skill in fitting it, and I did not have the impression that this was available.

If I have the time, I may explore Hartline's contacts at Mackintosh.

Also looked in at Burberry's. Their flagship store on Regent Street has demoted raincoats to a dingy basement with stained carpets. The good news was the trench coat fitted like a glove. Unfortunately, I thought the quality looked much worse than the Aquascutum: flimsy plastic buttons roughly sown on by machine, industrial buttonholes the likes I had not seen since growing out of my school stuff. A friend recalled he heard rumours they outsourced production to Turkey. I felt this was a company run to please the financial commuinity more than its customers.

All this at prices nearly 30% higher than Aquascutum, where the men's department resides on a splendid first floor with a separate circular room for raincoats and a library like room for their MTM department.

I always had a strange fondness for Burberry's, way back when they were still in Haymarket, and I felt somewhat sad as I was leaving their Regent Street store. Especially because the salesman had been most pleasant, but there is little that can be done on the shopfloor to compensate for strategy decisions.

Good Lord, what a decent into hell! Burberry is a fashion house today, and that leaves their traditional merchandise grimly unmoored. Aquascutum is clearly your best bet, TVD. My own--now ancient--Aquascutum trench coat is a wonderful garment. And my Burberry fly-front is ten years old, and we both know that nations can rise and fall in ten years: why should nice old firms be exempt? You have answered all of your questions. Nothing like a walk in town to help a fellow make up his mind....

I'm trying to find a decent raincoat, but since I'm short and slim it's hard to find one that fits just right. I'll try visiting the Aquascutum stores here in Seoul and ask if they have any MTM program available here. It's probably going to cost me a kidney because of the insane import taxes in this country. I'll also try some local brands. My biggest gripe with off-the-rack raincoats is that they're usually cut boxy and hang straight down. It's totally shapeless. The belted, double-breasted ones on the other hand are too fussy.

I really wish my tailor could make a raincoat for me, but there are a few problems with that. One is finding the appropriate fabric, and the other is construction: I don't want water getting through the stitches.