The London Lounge

I don't know the exact term for this, but I have heard it called a side seam or a top stitch. What I am referring to is a detail on a pair of bespoke trousers, in which there is a small fold over of cloth down the side seam of the trousers. What are the rules for wearing this? Is it a needless affectation or does it add an elegant touch? Would you wear it with anything but a solid or near solid (sharkskin, subtle herringbone)? Would you wear it with a pin or chalk stripe or a windowpane pattern? Thanks.

It's called a lap seam. I think is really "neutral" in all the senses you mean. It does not (to me) convey any messages that I know of. I think it is hard, bordering on impossible, to do with really thick cloth like tweeds, much easier with worsteds.

Honsestly, if you got this on a pair of business suit trouers, only you and your tailor would ever notice. And maybe some LL member friends.

I would notice, and do notice.

I also like it when they do the flat feld seams along the side of the trousers.

I think that I´d notice, Matt. Though I don´t like the look, which puts me in mind of Levi Strauss´s blue-jean pants, I suppose that a true dandy might be able to carry it of in a way that would not displease me. (Need you care? That might in part depend upon whether I am a minority of one!)

On a lap seam, the flap is really narrow -- 1/8" or less. The hand stitching is actually more noticeable than the flap. With dark cloth, you can hardly see either unless you are up close. With light cloth, you'd probably notice the stitch before the flap.

Would a lap seam be considered a more "formal" look suitable only for uncuffed trousers? It seems to me that it would "bulk up" the cuffs, which I understand are considered a more casual detail in some circles.

CCox

ccox wrote:Would a lap seam be considered a more "formal" look suitable only for uncuffed trousers? It seems to me that it would "bulk up" the cuffs, which I understand are considered a more casual detail in some circles.

I don't think it's more or less formal. The ones I have seen do not bulk up the cuffs; they are simply too narrow to have much of an effect.

Manton, the same "lap seam" sometimes seen on sports jackets in lieu of hand stiched edge?