The London Lounge

A lot of us began learning how to dress from the movies, particularly those of us who grew up with them in the 30s, 40s and 50s. To my eye, those were the years of maximum elegance and style, with men like Adolph Menjou, William Powell, Cary Grant, Bogart, of course, and one of my favorites: Clifton Web as Waldo Lydecker in the movie "Laura." What are some of your favorites?

If I reflected upon your question at length, rip, I'd likely name another film instead. But the film that comes first to mind is "Love in the Afternoon", a light romance which (if I remember correctly) Billy Wilder directed and produced in 1957: Gary Cooper's varied wardrobe fits him and the changing moods and settings perfectly.

Fred Astaire, of course, seemed almost too obvious to mention.

Then there's always The Duke of Fashion: John Wayne (photo by Phil Stern)

RWS, you hit the nail on the head with "Love in the Afternoon."

As a general rule, the movies of the 1920's to 1950's had great clothes. There has been a decline from the 1960's onwards with a few exceptions, such as the early James Bond.

I have stated this before, but you can look at almost any grade B programmer of the 1930's (such as Charlie Chan), and the principals and supporting player look great.

Last week I saw an early 1930's film with Adolphe Menjou and Ruth Chatterton. The title escapes me, but Menjou was playing the role of a wealthy theatrical producer in Paris. Everything that he wore was smashing and very fitted. His lapels had a fantastic roll. He was perfection.

It is interesting that the early film stars provided their own wardrobe. In the early days of the theater leading men would have their own wardrobe which they would use for plays set in present times. I believe that Menjou recounts this in his autobiography, "It Took Nine Tailors." Great title. Menjou further recounted that on the screen any slight imperfection in fit or make will be magnified, therefore, he demanded perfection in his clothes. This was the standard in the industry for both wardrobe and set design.

My wife and I are often surprised at the level of the wardrobe (both female and male) in the older films, especially the films which are not well known.

On a slight tangent, Paul Henreid, in the movie,Casablanca, is stunningly turned out in what one might call "tropical chic", always with a great Panama hat, which he never wears! He just carries it around. I guess it has to do with hat hair

Where to begin?

William Powell in The Thin Man series and Libeled Lady
Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief or anything else.
The cast of Brideshead Revisited
Hugh Laurie as Bertie Wooster in the BBC series Jeeves and Wooster
Fred Astaire certainly. I like Holiday Inn all the way through Funny Face and any I may have missed.

A very incomplete list as I run across great examples every day.

ccox wrote:Where to begin?

William Powell in The Thin Man series and Libeled Lady

I'm right in the middle of a Thin Man marathon

Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief or anything else.
The cast of Brideshead Revisited

Or almost anything on Masterpiece Theater, but Brideshead stands above them all!

Hugh Laurie as Bertie Wooster in the BBC series Jeeves and Wooster
Fred Astaire certainly. I like Holiday Inn all the way through Funny Face and any I may have missed.

It's impossible to get a fix on his use of color in the earlier B&W films, like Top Hat but the style just oozes out. It would be an egregious error, however, to judge pants length by him. A dancer must of necessity have his trouser cuffs where they won't hang up on his feet.

One of my early favourites (and still now) was Indescreet (1958) with Ingrid Bergman and - obviously - Cary Grant. Throughout the movie Grant demonstrates the whole range of gentleman's attire - suits, leisure clothes, black tie, white tie - and Ingrid Bergman at the side

Yes, Indescreet is an excellent clothes movie (both male and female).

Even Cecil looks terrific in more traditional Savile Row clothes. Grant's clothes looked more American or European.

Incidentally, this film is one of the few to credit Grant's clothier who was Quintino of L.A. I understand that Quintino made Grant's famous suit in North by Northwest.

I remember Rex Harrison in Preston Sturges' "Unfaithfully Yours" as the jealous orchestra conductor who imagines different scenarios of revenge upon his wife as he conducts three different pieces. It was, I believe, the first time I had ever seen a pair of trousers with a belt in the back. My memory may also be playing tricks on me, but I remember Harrison's wearing an overcoat with a black, probably some kind of lamb, large, fur collar that is one of the most elegant garments that I have ever seen.

In a different millieu, Tony Curtis' clothes in "The Sweet Smell of Success," seemed perfect for the place, New York City, the period, the firties, and the hustler he portrayed. Burt Lancaster, playing a bullying, Broadway columnist was garbed in a Braodway style double-breated suit, that made him look very powerful. Some of the scenes in the film were I believe shot at 21. The black and white photography of that Manhattan scene is simply beautiful

Talking about "The Sweet Smell of Success" . . .

The Burt Lancaster character, JJ Hunsecker, was based on Walter Winchell. Winchell was a customer of the NYC branch of Kinize. Winchell's favorite haunt, the Stork Club, used to give out give certificates to Knize.

Here's a favorite of mine:

I always liked Cary Grant in My Favorite Wife and Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House. It is difficult to finding CG looking bad in anything, with the obvious exception of Father Goose, where the role called for it.