The London Lounge

Which EG models are appropriate for rain and field wear?

If you like boots, consider the Galway with a Medway sole. Lots of shoes presented in the Country section of the EG catalogue as well: Dundee, Coniston, Gleneagle, Cumberland, etc.

That being said, given EG's pecial order program take any Derby style shoe or boot you like made on one of the rounder-toed lasts with a high toe-box (e.g. 505, 58), in a grained country calf, a suitable rubber sole and welt, and you have your perfect country shoe.

Why only derbies? And why a rubber sole? Won't double leather soles serve just as well?

I would think that Cordovan it's the best leather for bad weather, but I'm waiting for the experts answers ...

Synthetic or (as I prefer) plantation-crepe soles will grip better than leather, especially in wet weather, on boulders, or in very rough terrain. If you don't walk in the countryside in such weather, double leather soles should serve you just as well.

I find bluchers -- derbies -- more versatile than oxfords as very casual shoes, as they can adapt to varying thicknesses of hose (as I wear only silk or thin cotton or woollen hose in town, the quarters of oxfords will always meet approximately the same). Again, oxfords should be fine for you if don't vary the socks or other hose you wear or if you don't mind "showing tongue" on oxfords (poor form to my eyes, but probably not to some others).

Why derbies? I should think that, being a less formal style, they just feel more appropriate in these contexts, accordingly more styles are available.

That said, for rain wear, the oxford's closed lacing is theoretically more impervious to water. Though, a veltschuh-style oxford (where the top of the upper turns out instead of in so that it's waterproof at the seam) would seem sort of incongruous. Like silk facings on a tweed jacket or something.

An oxford boot, if you are prepared to wear them, would look better, and keep your feet clean and dry very well I'd think.

While I think of it, though significantly less waterproof, the chukka boot would be nice for general field wear. Logically speaking, I suppose it's construction would make it a near(ish) relative of the derby?

Regards,

Eden

Rubber soles are also easier to clean and dry out much faster than leather soles.

Some of EG's derby-style country shoes have pieces of leather connecting the underside of the each facing to the the tongue. I forget the proper term used to describe this. Their purpose is to prevent (limit?) water seepage through lace openings.

Okay, does Richards in CT take special orders? And are special orders the same price as RTW? I ask because I thought their prices for EG's seemed the least expensive.

Richards takes special orders. Their prices for in-stock shoes these days are the same as Saks - $850 I believe. For shoes with which they are unfamiliar, they usually call EG for a price before giving a quote. But some people have gotten lucky and received special order shoes at regular retail prices, so they're worth a shot.

For comparison, special orders from the Burlington Arcade store cost about £430-500 depending on model. Expect £30 shipping. Your credit card is billed at shipping, so whatever exchange rate is in effect at that time is the final price.

Is that with our without VAT?

Generally special order Edward Green runs $100+ higher than RTW. The wait is about 4 months or more.

Concordia wrote:Is that with our without VAT?

Tax free...or so the receipts say.

mpolanthan wrote:Some of EG's derby-style country shoes have pieces of leather connecting the underside of the each facing to the the tongue. I forget the proper term used to describe this. Their purpose is to prevent (limit?) water seepage through lace openings.

It's called a bellow tongue.

bengal-stripe wrote:

mpolanthan wrote:Some of EG's derby-style country shoes have pieces of leather connecting the underside of the each facing to the the tongue. I forget the proper term used to describe this. Their purpose is to prevent (limit?) water seepage through lace openings.

It's called a bellow tongue.

This is a common feature on hiking boots, and on better mountaineering boots, the bellows tongue is of one piece with the upper itself. If you look at the lacing area of the shoes below, you can see how the leather is folded under to create the bellows (it isn’t really a tongue - more like extra leather pleated under. I have a pair of these, although they were purchased a few years ago and so are a bit less high-tech looking. I also have a pair of trekking boots from La Sportiva that are leather lined and Norweigian welted. They used to make good stuff, and I assume they sill do. And Dr. Bresch - they work pretty well as rain shoes too, although probably a bit more noticeable and not as good with a suit as the Edward Green’s you are looking at.

http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/238

bengal-stripe wrote:

mpolanthan wrote:Some of EG's derby-style country shoes have pieces of leather connecting the underside of the each facing to the the tongue. I forget the proper term used to describe this. Their purpose is to prevent (limit?) water seepage through lace openings.

It's called a bellow tongue.

Thank you!